More pertinent mTDI notes I have copied and pasted from various forums and FB Groups:
libbydiesel on 26 Feb, 2019 22:20
I don't know whether the pump is a 200 or 300TDI pump, but it is one of the two. Set up stock they will rev up over 4,000 rpms.
Make sure that the hub is installed correctly on the pump shaft and isn't 180° out.
The hub needs to be installed so that the slot in the hub aligns with the hole in the pump when the keyway in the pump shaft is point to the #1 cylinder delivery valve. *****The stock land rover hub is installed 180° out of time. In that situation it will still run but will lack power. I don't know that it would be limited to 2100 rpms, though. A good baseline timing spec is then 1.40mm for that pump.Definitely weird that it was limited to ~2100. Did it rev above that when in 'neutral' or was there not any neutral on the boat install? The pump could certainly have been set up incorrectly on the rebuild. Governor could be wrong. The camplate could be installed 180° out of time. Another thing that comes to mind is to
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the Land Rover 300TDI injection pump is pretty much ideal for the ALH. It has the correct nose diameter to fit the ALH bracket. You can use the ALH sprocket and hub which will give the correct offset for the timing belt. To mount it, you can run a tap into the three mounting holes at the sprocket end of the pump and use M10 bolts if memory serves. They are larger than the stock ALH bolts but will just barely fit through the holes in the timing cover/bracket. There are a couple of other minor items to address but it is 99% bolt-on and will outperform a stock ALH eTDI out of the box.
(A. Libby)
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http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,46476.0.htmlhttps://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?9375483-300-tdi-landrover-pump-on-an-ALH-TDI-engine&p=114031915#post114031915The hub on the pump,
the part that the timing belt sprocket bolts to,
needs to be the one from the ALH engine. The hub from the Rover application has the wrong offset for the timing belt location as well as other differences.
The slot for the locking pin on the landrover pump is bigger than the one on the ALH pump.
And the hole the pin slides into is bigger.
So I either had to cut the ALH slot wider or put a bushing in the LR pump.
I made a bushing, but don't have a picture of it yet.
I still ended up having to cut the ALH slot deeper because the LR pump hole is lower.
Now if you go back to this picture,
Tthe allen bolt at the front nose area of the pump gets removed and a longer bolt goes in the hole.
It's used to lock the pump shaft when it's at 1.43 mm.
Lock it there with the alignment pin in the hub slot and tighten it down.
Further fine tuning adjustments are done with the sprocket bolts.
The first picture also shows how close the alignment pin hole is to the hub,..
the sprocket bolts will hit it.
About 3/16" needs to be removed.
The pump mounting holes are threaded on the ALH pump.
Not so on the LR pump.
I put 8m1.25 helicoils in the holes.
They felt a little loose, like the holes were slightly too big.
I'm not too worried but will use longer bolts and add nuts on the top 2 bolts.
Andrew suggested I use 10m 1.5 or 1.25 bolts.
I'll try that on the next one.
From photo, for governor mod, replace the middle spring, the shorter spring of the larger diameter 2, with several washers.
On the high pressure end of the pump I used a 1.6 mounting bracket.
Drilled a few extra holes for allen bolts, probably didn't need to..
There are holes in the metal high pressure head that are supposed to support the bracket.
The Land Rover pump had them in a different spot so the TDI bracket had little support.
The MK1 bracket didn't line up with the right holes either so I drilled them into the bracket.
Where the 2 allen bolts are.
To drill the right spot I screwed the pointy bolt into the hole and bolted the bracket on,..
then tapped it with a hammer to use it like a center punch.
To make the pointy bolt I put a bolt in the drill press and held a grinder up to it while it was spinning,..
then filed a couple flat spots so I could grip it.
I'll just explain what I did on the other end.
First off the shaft locking bolt is 10M1 thread and needs to have at least 1 3/8" of threads.
I made a bushing to fill the alignment pin hole,
instead of grinding the hub slot to fit the pin.
I found a piece of about 3/8" aluminum rod and drilled the center to 15/64" on my 1945 Altas lathe.
It seemed cleaner but I ended up having to grind the hub slot too.
Because the alignment pin hole on the TDI is up higher
so I had to grind the slot deeper to match the LR pump hole.
I locked the shaft at 1.4mm, my dial gauge isn't metric so I used .055".
Then cleaned and degreased the hub center and shaft before sticking them together with a nut.
Where that pin hole is on the LR pump also stands out farther
so the 3 TDI sprocket mounting bolts hit the pump.
I shortened the bolts but probably could have removed some from the pump as well, only talking about 1/8".
The TDI pump is bolted on from the timing belt side, so it's threaded.
The LR pump isn't tapped.
I installed 8M1.25 helicoils.
The hole was almost too big to use a helicoil but I think it will work.
(EDIT - a TimeSert full sleeve insert would work and give full thread engagement, FYI)*from LibbyDiesel:
I tapped the 3 LR pump mounting holes to M10 (as opposed to a loose fitting M8 tapped into the existing holes). The M10 bolts fit fine through the timing belt backing plate and the accessory bracket. more from FatMobile:
On the top of the pump I used the LR accel lever and spring setup.
I think the LR pump uses the tall bushing like the MK2.
So I think the MK2 accel lever and spring setup would work but I didn't have one to try.
The ball the MK1 and MK2 accel cable snaps to fits the LR lever with a little drilling.
But I might still weld a piece of early adjustable bracket to the end.
Having the cable attach farther from the center
means small movement of the foot moves the lever less.
Might not be as sensitive to movement.
(FatMobile on VWVortex & VWDiesel.net)
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AHU w/Land Rover 300TDI pump:
the AHU pump is small where it goes into the mount.. like any pre AHU pumps... a newer pump ALH aka 99.5+ mk4 style requires a machine shop to open that hole up to about 68mm i think it was.. then from reading requires a few shims to get the gear to line up perfectly with the belt... remember the pulley becomes the adjustment vs turning the pump to do so. mine was machined next day.. and machinist said it was cake, too.
for a mk4 style tdi it's almost direct bolt on...
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the Rover pump fits one version of AAZ bracket which bolts up to the
(AHU/1Z?) TDI block, you need to weld on a lug for the TB roller or just leave it out. the AHU sprocket fits the LR shaft perfectly too.
the advance springs need swapping to something softer (AAZ?) and they run fine, have a look on vwdiesel.net for my posts as well as others on this subject. getting the timing right is the hardest part.
(RyanP @ TDIClub)
the mk4 pulley has no keyway on the 'holder/flange' so setting it at TDC can be a pain, I'd prefer to use an AHU pulley and just live with the fact that you have to adjust the timing by swinging the pump (and grind out the ALH bracket mounting holes to slots, or use older VW pump brackets that are already slotted.
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I've just put one of these pumps on a 1Z.
I used the pump bracket from a 1.9TD T4 transporter van (eurovan to the Americans) as I had one laying around. The AAZ bracket I had I'm sure was too small, but now ryanp has mentioned it, I will have to look again. Ryan, was the AAZ a late one with the 2-piece hub by any chance?
I used the 1Z pulley which meant slotting the pump mounting holes so the timing could be set by turning the whole pump.
Timing figures, I started at 1.54mm
(EDIT - 1.54mm for EGR model Land Rover pumps, not non-EGR which are 1.40mm) which is a number I have seen on a few threads and it ran at that setting. However, it was a bit smokey and with some more advance ran perfect
(MarkB_1303 @ TDI Club)
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The bracket was the one with a 2pc hub as far as I remember, at first I got my mates grandad to open up a TDI bracket, but realized this afterwards! I did the same for the first setup I made, slotting the holes. The second one just used a stock AAZ bracket and the Mk4 Golf TDI hub/sprocket but finding TDC would be a pain with no keyway so I sold it all.
The mk4 pulley fits right on the Rover pump, just needs a key way to make sure its in the right place.
I'd like to see how the pump goes if you open the timing cover up and put a softer spring in, maybe a AAZ one will work?? The governor needs doing as the Land rovers don’t rev well at all.
(RyanP @ TDIClub)
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I've fitted my LR 300TDI 11mm pump on my mTDI & it wasn't too difficult but there were a few things. I started with a Canadian AAZ IP bracket & had to have the nose bore opened up for the LR pump but just a few mm. From there it installed easily with a ALH 2 piece flange/pulley & shorter delivery valves from an old AAZ pump so the stock lines would line up without needing any bends.
Goes like a stabbed rat compared to the AAZ I had in before, mileage is consistent at 7.5L/100km (AAZ was 9.3) which is pretty good for pushing around a fat Vanagon & a heavy foot. PP520's (from RyanP), K03 hybrid @ 18psi & NO smoke... none; i could probably use a bit more fuel but i'm happy as it is. Initally I set the timing to 1.2 but that was a tad (ok more than a tad...) smokey at cold start. I beleive its around 1.4ish now & no smoke at start & not clacky sounding. I'm very happy with the results.
Giles pressed the hub on so its locks at TDC. On the LR pumps its not hard to figure out though, the woodruff key on the shaft points to the #1 cylinder pump outlet at pump TDC.
(BlackDogVan @ TDIclub)
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The Rover 2.5L engine puts out 120 hp in stock form - stock injectors, stock turbo, stock emissions profile. The pump itself has no trouble pushing more fuel than that.
The pump head itself is identical to an 11mm ALH pump. The cam plate in the pump (which is what actually pushes on the plunger more or less) isn't quite as aggressive as the stock AHU/ALH ones. This does limit the fueling you can achieve a tiny bit. Larger nozzles take care of that though. If you are going for an all out 200 hp+ build then swapping in a different cam plate wouldn't be the worst thing in the world, however the stock one is sufficient for most people's needs if they are doing injectors too.
The earlier Rover 200 TDI pumps have a more aggressive cam plate than the later 300 TDI ones, though there's been some suggestions that the 200 pumps are more likely to break plunger return springs due to said cam plate. I can't say either way - I have the 300 TDI version along with large nozzles and I definitely don't have any issues getting enough fuel in there.
(VanBCguy @ TDIClub)
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