unless you stick a vacuum pump on the diesel return hose to get fuel flowing out of the pump, your car probably will not fire. i've had a return hose go on me, and just by changing it for a brand new hose, that little bit of air made the car take about a full minute of cranking just to start up! :shock: me and andy2 did a ghetto pump bleed :lol: ... he slowly fed the pump fuel (10w30... :lol:) while i cranked it over (he fed the pump directly). i can honestly say that the pump took a LOT of fuel... man that vacuum pump would have saved about 20-30 minutes!!! If you take off the main line going to the pump and pour diesel in it, and you crank it over, does the fuel get sucked into the pump? if so its dry. (remember to have the injectors cracked at this point)I still think that your pump still has air in it, unless you've actually bled it with a vacuum pump. the car should still at least run half assed with a bad pump.
The reason I ask about the movement of the plunger is that you could have a broken plunger. If the plunger is moving, then you can assume that the high pressure side is okay. I have heard of stop solenoids still clicking and yet not allowing fuel to pass. Really can't see how that could be the case, but might be worth removing the solenoid plunger altogether just to eliminate it as a possibility. You can always dump the clutch to shut it off if you do get it running. Often times if a pump is stored dry, the vanes of the vane pump will stick. It is only centrifugal motion (and gravity to a slight extent) that keeps the vanes against the sides of the pump housing. If the vanes stick, then the low pressure pump will not function at all.Andrew