Author Topic: Injector removal (Read 4588 times)

gnavs · « **on:** December 04, 2006, 09:23:55 am »

I had picked up some nozzles from Smog and replacement injectors from addautomotive for use in my 97 TD, AAZ. My car was in the shop for an IP replacement, from our good buddy Giles :wink: , and i figured nozzles were a logical step. According to my mechanic, the injectors won't come out, and apparently if you strain too hard removing them theres a chance the head could crack. So my question now is how the heck am i supposed to change my nozzles? If theres anyone in the Calgary area thats willing to maybe teach a noob some tricks in exchange for a few beers that would be great. Or any suggestions from some of the vets would help too.
Thanks

jtanguay · « **Reply #1 on:** December 04, 2006, 09:38:13 pm »

well you dont want to remove the injectors on a cold head... good way to crack the cold and brittle aluminum... it is also recommended that you use a t bar to apply equal pressure on both sides while removing the injector...

just curious, but would using an impact wrench be okay on an injector? at a lower pressure of course... it would apply an equal all around pressure... i'm sure there are reasons not to use it, but just curious.

ricosuave · « **Reply #2 on:** December 04, 2006, 09:50:47 pm »

^

and use penetrating oil on it

Chestrockwell · « **Reply #3 on:** December 04, 2006, 10:53:20 pm »

Impact guns and aluminum threads are iffy; you don't really get to feel if anything is galling or binding or whatever.

I sprayed WD-40 at the threads of mine every few days while driving it for maybe a couple months before doing it. They came out ok, did it with the head warm, don't know if that made any difference but made me cringe less.

745 turbogreasel · « **Reply #4 on:** December 05, 2006, 03:34:40 am »

I use a 27 MM sockt, and an impact wrench. sometimes one of the leakoff tubes gets bent, but I've had no thread problems whatsoever....

MacGyver · « **Reply #5 on:** December 05, 2006, 07:20:56 am »

Quote

...You must go a little out, a little in, a little out, a little in, etc...

...is anyone else getting excited?

Quote

For lack of impact, make sure if using a breaker bar that you have the handle rotated so that you are pushing it toward the engine. If you pull away from the engine you will crack the head.
Andrew

Read this & believe it.
Been there, DONE THAT before I knew better. :cry:

gnavs · « **Reply #6 on:** December 05, 2006, 07:55:23 am »

:lol:

thanks for the help guys.

addautomotive · « **Reply #7 on:** December 05, 2006, 08:02:22 am »

When reinstalling injectors, is there anything you would recommend putting on the threads to make them easier to remove? There are several brands of anti-seize, just curious if there is a preference towards one.

saurkraut · « **Reply #8 on:** December 05, 2006, 08:12:55 am »

Either silver or copper antisieze is good. i,ve kind of gravitaded towards the copper as it seems to hang in there better on hotter things than the silver. But i never had a problem with the silver on injectors. Even with the accelerated salt spray test that is performed every year in northern climes.

MacGyver · « **Reply #9 on:** December 05, 2006, 05:39:21 pm »

If you want the best antiseize, and/or you do a lot of R&R of high heat or aluminum parts, get some nickel based stuff.
Like this:
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=407&catid=74

It's ~CDN$30+ per bottle, but superior ratings, and a bottle lasts decades. I'm just about through a bottle I bought almost 20yrs ago.

jtanguay · « **Reply #10 on:** December 06, 2006, 05:40:36 am »

Quote from: MacGyver

If you want the best antiseize, and/or you do a lot of R&R of high heat or aluminum parts, get some nickel based stuff.
Like this:
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=407&catid=74

It's ~CDN$30+ per bottle, but superior ratings, and a bottle lasts decades. I'm just about through a bottle I bought almost 20yrs ago.

"Lubricates assemblies up to 2400ºF (1316°C)"

Sold!

commuter boy · « **Reply #11 on:** December 06, 2006, 04:14:35 pm »

When I was a turbine mechanic, we used the nickel anti-seize on stainless to stainless parts.

I've heard that it's not so good with dissimilar metals, and in that case the copper is better.

Anyone got anything to back that up with? I'm curious to know.

MacGyver · « **Reply #12 on:** December 06, 2006, 06:57:05 pm »

Quote

When I was a turbine mechanic, we used the nickel anti-seize on stainless to stainless parts.

I've heard that it's not so good with dissimilar metals, and in that case the copper is better.

Anyone got anything to back that up with? I'm curious to know.

Never heard that, but I would like to know also!

I have heard of the aluminum based stuff pitting aluminum parts.

Most anti seize products say they are rated for dissimilar, and aluminum, but... :?

745 turbogreasel · « **Reply #13 on:** December 06, 2006, 07:21:02 pm »

I have used that very stuff on injector threds and exhaust bolts. no issues unless the lid comes off in your toolbox...1 drop is enough to contaminate everything you touch for the next hour or two.
A half pint bottle is only $6 or 8 here,.

Author Topic: Injector removal (Read 4588 times)

745 turbogreasel

addautomotive

745 turbogreasel