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Author Topic: Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI  (Read 15522 times)

Reply #15September 09, 2006, 08:40:52 am

lord_verminaard

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #15 on: September 09, 2006, 08:40:52 am »
Quote from: 935racer
Whats your twin charge idea? Blower to snail?


Yep.  Not sure which blower or what type at the moment.  A centrifugal would be nice because of the relatively small space but they are known to be very inefficient.  I was thinking an Eaton roots-type from a GM 3800 SC would work well but space may be a factor.  I'd love to have a lysholm but there's that whole money thing.  (the reason why I dont even have the engine yet!!!!!)  I'm thinking blower to small intercooler, like the stock TDI one- to the turbo, up to the gutted rain tray into an air-water intercooler, then back down to the fabbed intake.  This keeps the total amount of tubing quite short and the air should be fairly cool as well.  I've got some sketches and have made some measurements and it looks like it would really be pretty simple.

But this isnt about me, it's about the guy who actually has the hardware in his hands.  Carry on!  I'll be watching!   :twisted:

Brendan
84 Scirocco 8v
00 Camaro L36 M49
81 Scirocco 'S -->Soon to be m-TDI
93 Corrado SLC VR6
'86 Golf N/A Diesel  -->Wife's car
1990 Audi CQ
05 New Beetle PD TDI


"I am a man, I can change... if I have to.... I guess....."

-Red Green

Reply #16September 12, 2006, 01:56:36 pm

greggearhead

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« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2006, 01:56:36 pm »
Centrifugal superchargers are VERY efficient (in terms of adiabatic efficiency).  Much better than roots style etc.  


935Racer - sounds like a great project.  Keep us updated of the progress!
Caddy (TD Project), Caddy 1.6D, etc etc.

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Reply #17September 12, 2006, 02:17:57 pm

dubCanuck1

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2006, 02:17:57 pm »
There's a guy near me selling an E/R MP62 for $250 CDN, if you want it.

http://www.clubveedub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16909

Reply #18September 12, 2006, 11:47:10 pm

935racer

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #18 on: September 12, 2006, 11:47:10 pm »
Finally some pics, nothing too cool yet but don'y worry its all under works.















My custom 14mm pump plunger vs the stock 9mm (injection pump head):






Reply #19September 13, 2006, 03:10:51 am

Benjamin

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« Reply #19 on: September 13, 2006, 03:10:51 am »
nice pics  8)

What is the benefit of polished rods??  :oops:  (i assume you also have to balande them?)

Greetz, Benjamin
SMOG alert, engine running again!
Must make +250hp

Reply #20September 13, 2006, 12:35:27 pm

greggearhead

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« Reply #20 on: September 13, 2006, 12:35:27 pm »
Polished rods have fewer sharp edges and therefore fewer stress risers, or places where failure might occur.  Really need to shot-peen them, too.  

Nice polish job.
Caddy (TD Project), Caddy 1.6D, etc etc.

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Reply #21September 13, 2006, 01:35:11 pm

2mAn

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #21 on: September 13, 2006, 01:35:11 pm »
wow! i cant wait til im up in seattle, im going to have to drive out to PP and see what the deal is hands on

Reply #22September 13, 2006, 02:02:22 pm

935racer

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #22 on: September 13, 2006, 02:02:22 pm »
Yep polishing the rods gets rid of stress risers left from the forging process, the main thing is that large ridge left on the beam, that really needs to get blended out, most people leave the center section of the rod, but I have the tools to do it all so I will. And yes the rods need to be shot peened afterwards, I will do that later this week and maybe even cryo the rods. I will likely also resize them with ARP hardware and put new bushings in as well balance the rods.

Remember that when you polish rods ALWAYS polish/sand with the length of the rod, never across, this will create different stress risers weakening the rod. You have be super careful polishing rods or you really will make them much worse than were originally. Its a job for steady hands and an ELECTRIC die grinder, if you have head porting tooling and experience you'll be fine, if not do your homework and practice on some scrap rods first.

Thanks for the props 8)

Reply #23September 13, 2006, 11:21:59 pm

macsdub

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« Reply #23 on: September 13, 2006, 11:21:59 pm »
arp doesnt make rod bolts
well,they said they would make custom ones for me
unless something has changed since i built my engine ,there are no aftermarket rod bolts avalable for tdi's
most of the time this is hilfolk'r... ive forgotten my password

Reply #24September 14, 2006, 12:49:11 am

935racer

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Project Mechanical Twin Turbo TDI
« Reply #24 on: September 14, 2006, 12:49:11 am »
I know they have a few watercooled rod bolts to choose from, I was hoping one of them would fit the tdi rods, I havent gotten to that point yet however but I will post my findings here when the time comes.

Reply #25September 14, 2006, 12:03:20 pm

greggearhead

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« Reply #25 on: September 14, 2006, 12:03:20 pm »
Raceware might have some too - haven't checked in a long time.
Caddy (TD Project), Caddy 1.6D, etc etc.

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Reply #26October 06, 2006, 01:54:27 pm

Benjamin

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« Reply #26 on: October 06, 2006, 01:54:27 pm »
Quote
Yep polishing the rods gets rid of stress risers left from the forging process, the main thing is that large ridge left on the beam, that really needs to get blended out, most people leave the center section of the rod, but I have the tools to do it all so I will. And yes the rods need to be shot peened afterwards, I will do that later this week and maybe even cryo the rods. I will likely also resize them with ARP hardware and put new bushings in as well balance the rods.

Remember that when you polish rods ALWAYS polish/sand with the length of the rod, never across, this will create different stress risers weakening the rod. You have be super careful polishing rods or you really will make them much worse than were originally. Its a job for steady hands and an ELECTRIC die grinder, if you have head porting tooling and experience you'll be fine, if not do your homework and practice on some scrap rods first.


is this all you need to know before you begin on the polish job?
oh, wich tool did you use on the electric die grinder (how hard/soft, dont know the right word in english  :oops:  )

Are polished conrods a must-have when you going for big power block?
or is this just a little bit better than stock?

Greetz, Benjamin
SMOG alert, engine running again!
Must make +250hp

Reply #27October 08, 2006, 10:35:30 am

macsdub

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« Reply #27 on: October 08, 2006, 10:35:30 am »
you dont "need"polished rods
its just when you are going for it all,its added insurance against  breakage hopefully
most of the time this is hilfolk'r... ive forgotten my password

 

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