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#15
by
fatmobile
on 16 Oct, 2020 22:19
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If I remember right.
The trany has to be rotated so the flange is higher.
It can't be pulled straight out.
I don't think you need to remove the p-side motor mount.
If you lower that end much, watch the alternator and frame.
You took all the motor mounts off the trany right?
And you can lower that end of the engine enough for the trany to clear the body?
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#16
by
monst
on 17 Oct, 2020 15:59
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So I need a set of circlip pliers for the drive flanges.....
Can someone provide me with the guaranteed... beauty... pair to get them off
local stores had non-specific...... junky ones............
Link to them..... and company name... and model......
I see Knipex....... makes some nice ones....... but which ones?
??
thanks, MOnst
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#17
by
fatmobile
on 17 Oct, 2020 16:43
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#18
by
libbydiesel
on 17 Oct, 2020 16:53
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You don't need to remove either of the drive flanges in order to remove the trans. I know it seems like you have to, but you don't. It will finagle around the flywheel/pressure plate. You're just not angling it right.
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#19
by
monst
on 17 Oct, 2020 18:37
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Yeah, only one mount is connected.... Pside
Alright..... I believe you.... on the drive flang.ee I could see it being possible....(curves around it)
Perhaps,,,,, you can describe..... using reference to..... orientation.... with respect to
position using......... o'clock.... terminology....
At this point...... the trans is being supported by the jack... and is not butted up to engine surface...
Does this pose clearance problems... (with finagling.... properly)
thanks, Monst
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#20
by
libbydiesel
on 17 Oct, 2020 20:36
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Once you get the the engine and trans unbolted from each other, there should be enough play so that as you are pulling the trans away from the engine, rather than just pulling it straight, you can angle it enough to sneak the flange around the flywheel. FWIW, these are not heavy transmissions. I like to have a tranny jack under it to take most of the weight, but I can easily lift one and can wiggle it while pulling it away from the engine.
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#21
by
monst
on 18 Oct, 2020 10:31
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Yeah, weight of trans... not an issue......
It is apart..... (mating surfaces are not touching)
I think I will get it back to where the mating surfaces are closer together.....
then try again as you describe.....
In the event..... I pop the flange off..(due to tired of wrestling with it)
It is just pulling the seal off(cover.....)
the circlip.....
and the washer beneath it.....
(there is a green collar on the trans)
Is there a spring behind the flange?
This can't be too much of a PIA to remove the flange(in the car) can it?
AND I would replace the seal as a result...
M
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#22
by
fatmobile
on 18 Oct, 2020 21:04
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I call it turning more than angling.
I think the back of the trany needs to be lifted up while the front goes down a little.
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#23
by
libbydiesel
on 19 Oct, 2020 08:43
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It is just pulling the seal off(cover.....)
the circlip.....
and the washer beneath it.....
(there is a green collar on the trans)
Is there a spring behind the flange?
This can't be too much of a PIA to remove the flange(in the car) can it?
AND I would replace the seal as a result...
M
Yes, there is a spring behind the flange.
http://www.brokevw.com/020flange.html
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#24
by
monst
on 21 Oct, 2020 11:52
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well...........................
Transaxle/trans is out on the floor... Now.... thanks!
Got lots of work ahead........
I will post some more specific details...... as I go.....
Sadly, the clutch has much more material on it.....
the slipping is due to a highly glazed clutch due to oil contamination.....
The rear seal appears to be the culprit......
Should I look to Sachs for all replacement needs... on parts?
Seals as well???
Monst
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#25
by
fatmobile
on 21 Oct, 2020 15:01
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Glad you got it out.
I'm thinking it's the push rod tube seal that soaked your clutch.
Most of the oil from a rear main seal leak hits the outside of the pressure plate and is spun off.
The push rod tube dumps it right in the center of the clutch and spins it outward onto the disk.
Not sure what brand to buy.
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#26
by
monst
on 22 Oct, 2020 12:23
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Maybe it is both......
She has
almost 300k.............
Found a place to cut the flywheel........ they want $150.00
I can get a new LUK flywheel(supposedly LUK) Saw it for like $60.00... inclds.. shipping?
(have to look closer at the vin.... code::: but 1.6L it supposedly fits)
I just hate buying stuff that sucks...... wouldn't want to have to deal with something stupid later
like a spun starter ring gear(%**^*) on the flywheel.......
Just wondering thoughts out there..............
Save a little dough or not?
Monst
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#27
by
fatmobile
on 22 Oct, 2020 20:38
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$150 sounds pretty high.
I used to get them done for $40 but that was awhile ago and that shop has closed/moved.
If it doesn't look too bad you can get away without having it resurfaced.
Maybe scratch it up with some sandpaper.
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#28
by
libbydiesel
on 22 Oct, 2020 21:38
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$150 to turn the flywheel?!?! The last one I had turned was about a year ago and was ~$40 if memory serves. $150 is ridiculous.
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#29
by
monst
on 23 Oct, 2020 09:50
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Yup!...... I kinda had that feeling too....... (too much...)
I'm glad I didn't just bring it there and drop it off..........
(and get soaked for it later) Sounds like they were just trying to "capitalize" on a situation........
I got a couple of other places to ask....... I'll call them just to see.... (thanks for the tip on flywheel requiring special jig to cut etc etc.)
BUT, what do you think about the new ones that I have been seeing on line.... the run about 60 bucks?(they say they r LUK)
Like I said earlier...... I hate to put something in and later it fails.......... especially something deep down there...
(like clutch peripherals and flywheel.