Took the Rabbit to the Dyno today :)

[vwmike]

Yeah, I haven't gotten around to putting an intercooler on it. I've been too absorbed with all the other things that have been going on. I'm still working on that mk3 Golf TDI project and have been getting a bit of a crash course in chiptuning.

Anyways,

-I'm using a 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe

-1.3mm if I remember correctly. I know it sounds insane but that's what it took to make the car run properly with the 10mm pump head

-I'm using the stock camplate

I've looked at all of the numbers many times and I think I'd be best in sticking with the stock turbo for now and plumbing in an intercooler. The turbo should be good for something like 30 psi at the very top of it's efficiency range and would stay away from the surge limit. The 60 trim passes the surge limit if I remember correctly.

I actually have the new timing cover designed in solidworks but I haven't done anything with it yet. My machinist has just been too flakey so I need to find a new one. I do have a brand new Cummins 12mm injection pump I was going to put on there but I haven't been able to get my hands on the ALH hub to make it work. Apparently those only come on new injection pumps and it isn't anything you can get at the dealer. So, perhaps that will make it on there one of these days.

[snootworks]

I like DynoJet as it's quite popular and shows more average numbers. A couple Dyno Dynamics here in BC exaggerate numbers w/ high correction factors.

I just wanted to chime in for a second, as we're the other shop with a Dyno Dynamics unit.  

1. A significant factor in the popularity of inertial dynamometers (ie DynoJet) is cost.  Functionality is limited, and accuracy is questionable.  

2. Load/retarder dyno's offer superior ability in terms of accuracy, repeatability, and versatility.    

3. Exaggerated numbers:  The reason we chose to start providing "corrected" numbers is due to market demand.  As a young business, we simply couldn't afford to lose customers.  Despite MUCH effort attempting to educate the people that walked through the door, the bottom line was clear.  Oh, although I can't speak for "the other shop" the correction factor we apply is based on a somewhat-educated guess to bring the numbers in line with DynoJet's skewed results.  From what I've seen from the "other shop" it's the same factor.

I'm gonna stop here, as I could go on for ages on this topic.  I'll leave with a few facts:

 - inertial dyno numbers are inaccurate by nature, and inflate readings by design.

- peak numbers are really only good for bragging rights.  The real cake is in direct comparison of results (on the same machine - ie make a run, change stuff and make another to see the results) and the ability to load tune.  

If anyone want's to chat dyno's by all means give me a shout.

[greggearhead]

Don't forget water-methanol as an option for intercooling.  I am not a commercial just plugging the company I work for, I just want to promote the idea in general.

[andy2]

  The turbo should be good for something like 30 psi at the very top of it's efficiency range and would stay away from the surge limit.  

29 psi on the k24 was good enough for 160whp on my AAZ,egts weren't too bad either.

[Staley]

160WHP would feel like a ROCKET in the A1 Rabbit.
I wonder what the heck I need to do next to take the power higher.
Assuming that my dyno of 120WHP is accurate.. which I imagine that it is..
Here is the turbo that I am running...
http://www.turbostore.com/gart3sup.html

and here is the compressor map



the turbo seems to hold the boost until I lift the throttle...
I have adjusted the main fueling screw as much as possible..
humm
ideas?

[Benjamin]

I have adjusted the main fueling screw as much as possible..
humm
ideas?

i think you need a bigger plunjer if you want more feul.
i dont think there is a other way to get more hp on the flywheel than giving more diesel.

Greetz, Benjamin

[DVST8R]

160WHP would feel like a ROCKET in the A1 Rabbit.
I wonder what the heck I need to do next to take the power higher.
Assuming that my dyno of 120WHP is accurate.. which I imagine that it is..
Here is the turbo that I am running...
http://www.turbostore.com/gart3sup.html

and here is the compressor map



the turbo seems to hold the boost until I lift the throttle...
I have adjusted the main fueling screw as much as possible..
humm
ideas?

More boost.

Andy as I understand was running 29psi or so, and was competley clear behind him on essetially just a stock K24. (not sure what Andy is running right now for a pump I know he has a 12mm to be installed) And was completly clear behind him.

Malone ran about 155whp or so @35+psi on a GT-20 turbo(g-tech is always hard to guess exactly) out of the same pump as you have.  and was clear as well at that.

So I would recomend talk to giles make sure you have the pump at its max in all the little things, run that turbo up to ~30psi and give it another go. If you still need more you will have to send the pump back for another go.   :wink:

[andy2]

I was still using the 9mm plunger on the dyno day with full load fuelling only at 86 cubic mil,Not really what you would call overfueling for 160whp.I'm sure Giles would tell you what he set your full load fuel at Staley.

[Staley]

I wonder how long these engines will last at 29 or 35 PSI?
I was reading about someone bending a rod at 35psi or something like that.  
I will turn the boost up to 29-30 and give it a whirl
If it blows up.. i'll tell everyone that yall made me do it

ar ar ar.. MORE power haha

[andy2]

I bent the rods with a little lower than stock CR on the aaz they can handle about 145-150 whp on 35 psi.

I lowered the cr to 19:1 and used PD rods to hopefully hold in upto 200whp.

[vwmike]

How were you able to bent the rods? As I've understood, they are pretty much the same as the TDI rods which I've seen take a lot more abuse than that.

Which PD rods did you use and how much better do you think they really are? Did you get them new?

[DVST8R]

I bent the rods with a little lower than stock CR on the aaz they can handle about 145-150 whp on 35 psi.

I lowered the cr to 19:1 and used PD rods to hopefully hold in upto 200whp.

Your Psi isn't exactly equivlent to Staley's as there would be more volume per psi then in his. With that being said I ran my daily driver, at 30-35psi for over a year, blew the T3 turbo, replaced it with a K24 and ran it at 30psi until I dismantled the car. I would guess I drove it everyday for nearly two years at 30psi + and there are alot of people on this board that can attest to the fact that I am not easy on anything. I could break a steel ball in a rubber room   .

[andy2]

The rods are form the 100 hp pd engine(brand new),Direct bolt on to aaz.I only realized my oem rods were bent while building my engine and checking piston potrusion :shock:.The rods were not really bent to where you would even notice while comparing them side by side.The engine ran fine and fired up on all four.I just wonder how many other engines out there running high psi have bent rods and like me having no clue that they did bend them.How many people have actually checked rods after applying high hp to them?Once they bend a little they will stay there and it'll hold together without any issues until you want more power from the engine.

[andy2]

Heres some pics of the aaz and bew(pd) rods.they are better the question is how much?

http://www.msnusers.com/gtdforum/shoebox.msnw?Page=3


Edit: any they are noticeably lighter than my lightened AAZ rods

[SMOKEYDUB]

Dr.diesel ran 35 psi for years with nothing bad happening to his engines of course arp head studs. DVST8R "there are alot of people on this board that can attest to the fact that I am not easy on anything. I could break a steel ball in a rubber room "        That is awesome sounds like you and I have similar habbits (mostly driving) :twisted: