Author Topic: Oil pan removal  (Read 3085 times)

August 26, 2004, 06:00:30 am

kens84quantumtd

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Oil pan removal
« on: August 26, 2004, 06:00:30 am »
Hey... Just wondering if anybody knows if the oil pan can be removed without taking the engine out on a Quantum? Thanks

Ken

Reply #1August 30, 2004, 02:30:10 pm

Mark(The Miser)UK

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Oil pan removal
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2004, 02:30:10 pm »
Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth :(

Mark(THe Miser)UK
Mark-The-Miser-UK

"There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising; its my car on fire!"

I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

Be like meeee: drive a Quantum TD
 ...The best work-horse after the cart...

Reply #2September 05, 2004, 02:05:36 am

kens84quantumtd

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Oil pan removal
« Reply #2 on: September 05, 2004, 02:05:36 am »
Thanks.. I was hoping that was the case.. After I pull the pistons, and oil squirters.. The car MAY be going to some local FOX owners that want the tranny.. But if they don't .. off the the crusher.. :(
I am very sorry to see it go that way.. the car is in decent shape.. But it needs work I don't have time to do, and the head is cracked.. So pulled the all the goodies off.. (turbo is going on my Miata) :)

Thanks again..

Ken

Reply #3September 05, 2004, 10:25:32 am

Mark(The Miser)UK

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« Reply #3 on: September 05, 2004, 10:25:32 am »
Hi Ken
My book says that you have to lower the subframe first...:shock:
I've done it so many times that I cant remember if its neccessary:)
I vaguely remember being able to wiggle it off at least one 'Q'...
However...
This additional task is easy.. . Prop up one front wheel so you can slide under on your back
Of the 4 subframe bolts slacken the rear 2 and then remove front 2 bolts(17mm tyre spanner would do ) then proceed as before... raising the subframe to put the bolts back in is done by using a VW jack!
PS
Whats happening to the A/C??
Mark-The-Miser-UK

"There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising; its my car on fire!"

I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

Be like meeee: drive a Quantum TD
 ...The best work-horse after the cart...

Reply #4July 07, 2008, 11:14:18 pm

Methanolab

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Oil pan removal
« Reply #4 on: July 07, 2008, 11:14:18 pm »
I just got the oil pan halfway down, which gave me just enough room to squeeze my arm in to remove the front oil pump bolt. The rear oil pump bolt will come loose but not out and it is still holding the pump. The pump, unfortunately, is holding the pan from sliding forward.
I might try lifting the motor. That might give me just enough room. It doesn't look like the cross member under my oil pan is removable. I have a 1983 Quantum TD.
Any one have any tricks or success stories for this. I am working on re-ringing the pistons with the crankcase still in the car. Thanks,
--Chris

Reply #5July 08, 2008, 01:51:04 am

Mark(The Miser)UK

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« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2008, 01:51:04 am »
See other forum
Mark-The-Miser-UK

"There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising; its my car on fire!"

I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

Be like meeee: drive a Quantum TD
 ...The best work-horse after the cart...

Reply #6July 08, 2008, 11:15:04 am

TD_Bunny

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Oil pan removal
« Reply #6 on: July 08, 2008, 11:15:04 am »
Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"
Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth :(

Mark(THe Miser)UK



I saw this post and thought to myself, " Im not the only one!!". those two or three bolts by the flywheel are a pain in the arse. I was thinking the easiest way would be to just loosen the tranny bolts enough to slide it back for some added room.

Reply #7July 08, 2008, 03:10:12 pm

Mark(The Miser)UK

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« Reply #7 on: July 08, 2008, 03:10:12 pm »
Quote from: "TD_Bunny"
Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"
Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth :(

Mark(THe Miser)UK



I saw this post and thought to myself, " Im not the only one!!". those two or three bolts by the flywheel are a pain in the arse. I was thinking the easiest way would be to just loosen the tranny bolts enough to slide it back for some added room.


A 1/4" set is the way to go.Funny how the vw draughtsman allowed grooves in the clutch housing for access but clearly didn't have an engine bolted up  :roll:
Mark-The-Miser-UK

"There's nothing like driving past a bonfire and then realising; its my car on fire!"

I'm not here to help... I'm here to Pro-Volke"

Be like meeee: drive a Quantum TD
 ...The best work-horse after the cart...

Reply #8July 09, 2008, 07:21:38 am

Methanolab

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« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2008, 07:21:38 am »
I didn't have any problem with the rear pan bolts. Its the pump bolts that are the problem. They are so long they hit the bot of the pan without the pump coming off. Well back to it, wish me luck...

Reply #9July 09, 2008, 12:17:43 pm

Methanolab

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« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2008, 12:17:43 pm »
It took a while but I have made friends with the sub-frame. I got all the pistons out and two had broken rings. The #4 piston that held around 20psi compression has a chunk out of it in the groove of the bottom ring. The cylinder has some pitting at the top and bottom of the stroke where the chunk was missing... any thought on what would happen if I just hone and re-ring?