Oil pan removal - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Oil pan removal by kens84quantumtd on 26 Aug, 2004 06:00
• Hey... Just wondering if anybody knows if the oil pan can be removed without taking the engine out on a Quantum? Thanks
  
  Ken
• #1 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 30 Aug, 2004 14:30
• Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
  Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth
  
  Mark(THe Miser)UK
• #2 by kens84quantumtd on 05 Sep, 2004 02:05
• Thanks.. I was hoping that was the case.. After I pull the pistons, and oil squirters.. The car MAY be going to some local FOX owners that want the tranny.. But if they don't .. off the the crusher..
  I am very sorry to see it go that way.. the car is in decent shape.. But it needs work I don't have time to do, and the head is cracked.. So pulled the all the goodies off.. (turbo is going on my Miata)
  
  Thanks again..
  
  Ken
• #3 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 05 Sep, 2004 10:25
• Hi Ken
  My book says that you have to lower the subframe first...:shock:
  I've done it so many times that I cant remember if its neccessary:)
  I vaguely remember being able to wiggle it off at least one 'Q'...
  However...
  This additional task is easy.. . Prop up one front wheel so you can slide under on your back
  Of the 4 subframe bolts slacken the rear 2 and then remove front 2 bolts(17mm tyre spanner would do ) then proceed as before... raising the subframe to put the bolts back in is done by using a VW jack!
  PS
  Whats happening to the A/C??
• #4 by Methanolab on 07 Jul, 2008 23:14
• I just got the oil pan halfway down, which gave me just enough room to squeeze my arm in to remove the front oil pump bolt. The rear oil pump bolt will come loose but not out and it is still holding the pump. The pump, unfortunately, is holding the pan from sliding forward.
  I might try lifting the motor. That might give me just enough room. It doesn't look like the cross member under my oil pan is removable. I have a 1983 Quantum TD.
  Any one have any tricks or success stories for this. I am working on re-ringing the pistons with the crankcase still in the car. Thanks,
  --Chris
• #5 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 08 Jul, 2008 01:51
• See other forum
• #6 by TD_Bunny on 08 Jul, 2008 11:15
• Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"

  Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
  Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth
  
  Mark(THe Miser)UK

  
  
  
  I saw this post and thought to myself, " Im not the only one!!". those two or three bolts by the flywheel are a pain in the arse. I was thinking the easiest way would be to just loosen the tranny bolts enough to slide it back for some added room.
• #7 by Mark(The Miser)UK on 08 Jul, 2008 15:10
• Quote from: "TD_Bunny"

  Quote from: "Mark(The Miser)UK"

  Should be no problem. Does it have those shields on under the engine/wishbones cos theyre a pain.
  Two bolts that are up against the flywheel are hard to get on properly with a 1/2 inch or 3/8 socket set Use 1/4 inch or a flexidrive. For the last 15 years all I've driven is Quantums; but over here in Limey land A/C  is as rare as hens teeth
  
  Mark(THe Miser)UK

  
  
  
  I saw this post and thought to myself, " Im not the only one!!". those two or three bolts by the flywheel are a pain in the arse. I was thinking the easiest way would be to just loosen the tranny bolts enough to slide it back for some added room.

  
  
  A 1/4" set is the way to go.Funny how the vw draughtsman allowed grooves in the clutch housing for access but clearly didn't have an engine bolted up  :roll:
• #8 by Methanolab on 09 Jul, 2008 07:21
• I didn't have any problem with the rear pan bolts. Its the pump bolts that are the problem. They are so long they hit the bot of the pan without the pump coming off. Well back to it, wish me luck...
• #9 by Methanolab on 09 Jul, 2008 12:17
• It took a while but I have made friends with the sub-frame. I got all the pistons out and two had broken rings. The #4 piston that held around 20psi compression has a chunk out of it in the groove of the bottom ring. The cylinder has some pitting at the top and bottom of the stroke where the chunk was missing... any thought on what would happen if I just hone and re-ring?