Putting a turbo on the 1.6D!

[VWrabbit317]

I acquired a factory garrett t3 turbo (off a 92 jetta 1.6td), exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and downpipe for my 81 1.6 n/a and I just had a few questions before I started on this. I know its been covered probably a hundred times buy now and I've done a lot of reading around about it. I'm not looking to make crazy power, just a little more than it has now, but anyways..
-I know I need to weld a bung onto my oil pan for the oil drain line, but where can I tap in for the oil feed/pickup line?
-Will I be ok running my stock pump turned up until I can get a td pump?
-Should I run an intercooler?
-I read most people ditch the stock downpipe and make their own... 2.5" pipe should be good, correct?
-As far as ARP headstuds go.. I was looking for the part numbers and it looks like most people just use 204-4701 for the Ford Escort?

Thanks for taking the time to read through all this and feel free to tell me if there's anything else I should know!

[RunninWild]

204-4706 is the part number for the head studs. Intercooler depends on how much boost you want. To be honest if your not going for a lot of power or high boost save your money and just use your stock head bolts until you have a problem. 2.5" downpipe wouldn't hurt. The t3 is pretty big and will have a lot of lag. As for the oil feed I'd just source an oil filter housing from a turbo diesel that has the nipple built into it.

Is suggest installing an exhaust temp gauge. That will let you know how safe your running your engine and help you tube it for the most power without causing damage.

Your stock pump will work but you'll definitely want to upgrade asap.

[Dakotakid]

'81 1.6 engine original engine?

That would have 11 mm head bolts. Find a 12 mm engine and save yourself some grief.
Read up on 11 mm engines.

[VWrabbit317]

I was told by the PO the engine had been replaced. No proof.
But I was reading on another post on here that if I have the 1.6D stamped into the back of my motor and if the head bolts are 12point/triple square than that indicates they're 12mm

Correct me if I'm wrong

[Dakotakid]

Well, yes, it does sound like 12 mm engine. Probably a JK or ME block....if all else fails put a couple ounces of effort into reading the code.

A standard fuel pump works fine and don't "turn it up" until you get the rest of the engine and turbocharger working well. Learn to walk before you buy a Harley.

A 2 inch or 2 1/4 inch straight pipe will work well. It will be to your advantage to port the exhaust ports (at least) in that head. Actually, I personally would not put one of these together WITHOUT porting the head. Not only does it help with power, but the porting helps get the heat out of the head and into the turbocharger vanes and that reduces your temps in the head and the top of the pistons AND gets the turbo spinning much sooner.



 

[VWrabbit317]

Ok thanks for the info.
What's this diverter valve looking thing for on top of the intake mani? Do I need it or can the hole be welded shut?



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[vanbcguy]

It is totally unnecessary. If you have the capability definitely weld it closed!

It was originally fitted as an "overboost protection valve" though I'm not sure what it was supposed to protect. Blowing off manifold pressure causes the turbo to overspeed big time, whereas a bit of extra boost won't hurt the engine at all. There's an electrical connector on the end that was connected to a dash light on some Audi models. VW left it there on the 1.6 engines but dropped it from the Eco diesels and the AAZ. Apparently they didn't think it was a good idea either.

[libbydiesel]

I've run one of these for a while in my '79 rabbit.  No issues.  Cheap, easy, effective.

[VWrabbit317]

Ok cool.
When people do head studs do they just replace the gasket with the oe rubber one or should it be switched out to the metal 1.9 head gasket?

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[RunninWild]

If you want to run enough boost that you need head studs your going to want a metal head gasket.

If I were you I'd just worry about getting it up and running before spending money on upgrades. Head studs and a metal head gasket can come later when your already pushing the limits of the stock build. I'd get a Giles pump before I worried about the head gasket letting go of I were you. On a moderate build running sensible boost 15-20 psi your probably fine with the stock head bolts and gasket.

[vanbcguy]

I don't know that the AAZ gasket is really a requirement; I ran 23 PSI on a stock fiber (not rubber) gasket for many years on my 1.6. Keeping EGTs in check is the most important thing.

Trying to seal a used engine with a  metal MLS gasket requires extremely flat and smooth surfaces which you aren't going to achieve easily at home. Fresh from the machine shop, sure.

[VWrabbit317]

Ok so as long as I stay around 15psi I should be ok with the stock gasket and studs. What would be the best way to control my boost.. Is there a decent boost controller out there people use?

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[libbydiesel]

I've used 120 grit sandpaper (from an 8" tall roll) glued (using 3M spray adhesive) to polished granite (sink cutout) to hand lap sand the head gasket surface of the head.  Lube it well with WD-40 or similar.  It actually works incredibly well if you do it right.  If you do get a head planed at a machine shop, it is my opinion at this point that you should remove the pre-chamber inserts beforehand, especially if they are going to use a cutter rather than sander.  You should then hand lap them until they protrude very slightly above the head surface when fully seated.  They should be a tight fit in the head.  I would also recommend polishing the face of the insert to a shine and replacing any that have even the tiny hairline cracks. 

I built a 1.6TD engine for a friend of mine a few years back and he has over 60,000 miles running a stock fiber head gasket and stock head bolts. 

I like the ball-spring style of boost controller. 

[VWrabbit317]

Awesome.
So once I get the extra cash for the pump.. What's the best route? Have giles build my n/a pump or source a TD pump and just use that?

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[RunninWild]

Definitely a turbo pump. You can probably find one for cheap that you can use as a core for a rebuild. Or if your not in a rush I have a 1.6td pump that's in good condition ill probably have for sale by the end of the month.

I think you need to figure out what exactly you want from your build. You said your not looking for crazy power and just want a small increase from what you have now. Head studs, mls gaskets and Giles pumps are all high performance and expensive parts well not so much the gasket. If you just want a decent boost in performance id try and find a k04,k14 or t2 turbo and a turbo pump. It won't cost you very much and will give a pretty substantial increase from what you have now. The t3 is quite large and is pretty laggy. It will pull nice when the boost kicks in but don't expect it to be instant power. You'll mostly feel it when your hammering the throttle to pass cars or get up to speed on the freeway vs General cruising around town.

If you want to go all out the ideal setup seems to be Giles turbo pump, holset turbo, mls gasket, studs 2.5" high flow exhaust and intercooler. That should easily more then double the power you have now but it's also going to cost you somewhere around $2500-$3000.