Putting a turbo on the 1.6D!

[VWrabbit317]

Ok makes sense. Thanks for all that. So would any of those turbos bolt right up to the TD manifold or would a custom turbo pedestal need to be made?

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[RunninWild]

The garret t2 and t3 both use the 3 bolt triangular manifold while the k03 and k14 use the 4 bolt manifold. If your interested in the injection pump I have I can throw in a k04 for free but I'm pretty sure I'm needs a rebuild. Shoot me a pm if your interested...

[theman53]

The garret t2 and t3 both use the 3 bolt triangular manifold while the k03 and k14 use the 4 bolt manifold. If your interested in the injection pump I have I can throw in a k04 for free but I'm pretty sure I'm needs a rebuild. Shoot me a pm if your interested...

The older t2,t3,k14, and the k24 use the 4 bolt vw trapezoid manifold. I believe the gt15 and k03 use the triangle 3 bolt.

[VWrabbit317]

This one that I have is the t3, correct?

It has the trapezoid manifold.

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[VWrabbit317]

Disregard that. Found the tag.

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[Blue-Civic-Hybrid]

Lots of great information here, keep us updated on your progress.

[VWrabbit317]

So about 3 months later...
Finally got the time to pull it in the shop. Did a compression test yesterday. 505/510/515/515. The Bently said between like 483-398, so obviously it's had some head work done?
Regardless I still have to pull it apart to replace the head gasket because it is seeping around the back and a little on the front

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[Dakotakid]

Well, if your compression tester gauge is recording properly (and who knows?), those values would tend to support a well-done head and block rebuild.

This was a stone-cold reading or was the engine pre-heated? If stone cold, what ambient temp.?

[VWrabbit317]

Stone cold.. The shop was probably about 60-65 degrees yesterday

What would cause my gasket to leaking if it's had good head work done..

Also, where do you guys usually buy your parts from. I usually get stuff from parts place but was just wondering if there was another good place.

[Dakotakid]

Depending on what parts are needed, I use:
autohausaz.com
partsgeek.com
rockauto.com

Heavy on the word "depending." Parts place has NOT been any sort of "go-to" for me for right at 20 years. That alteration of a parts source coincided when the original owner sold his business to his daughter or whoever. Partsplace is "steel-mesh-underwear" territory.

What do you mean by your head is "leaking?" Long-term "sweating" which is an absolute none-problem.....or oil or anti-freeze running out like a river on a map? With compression values like what you supposedly have, I would keep my fingers the he77 away from the head gasket. Why invent a problem....perhaps you should be working for the state dept. and white house?

If the head eventually comes off, do like me and some guys like Libby do and hand sand the face of the head to get it perfectly flat. OK, they will go through that whole pre-combustion chambers "proud" thing ad-nauseum, etc. My pre-chambers generally sit flat and my engines run like a molested Chihuahua for long periods of time. No spit-out chambers here.

[VWrabbit317]

Depending on what parts are needed, I use:
autohausaz.com
partsgeek.com
rockauto.com

Heavy on the word "depending." Parts place has NOT been any sort of "go-to" for me for right at 20 years. That alteration of a parts source coincided when the original owner sold his business to his daughter or whoever. Partsplace is "steel-mesh-underwear" territory.

What do you mean by your head is "leaking?" Long-term "sweating" which is an absolute none-problem.....or oil or anti-freeze running out like a river on a map? With compression values like what you supposedly have, I would keep my fingers the he77 away from the head gasket. Why invent a problem....perhaps you should be working for the state dept. and white house?

If the head eventually comes off, do like me and some guys like Libby do and hand sand the face of the head to get it perfectly flat. OK, they will go through that whole pre-combustion chambers "proud" thing ad-nauseum, etc. My pre-chambers generally sit flat and my engines run like a molested Chihuahua for long periods of time. No spit-out chambers here.

Thanks for that info, Ill take a look at those places.

As for the head gasket, it just looks like its seeping around the gasket. My trucks been sitting in the shop for about a week and it has a puddle of oil about 4" in diameter on the floor directly underneath the back of the motor.. are you saying I shouldn't mess with it and just run it? Maybe pull the cover and just check torque on the head bolts?

[Dakotakid]

Generally, the head gaskets will leak oil at the front of the head where the high-pressure oil feed comes up out of the block. Leaks in the rear are less likely. Are you sure you are not leaking from the valve cover gasket?

Also, oil leaked from the front of the engine tends to migrate to the back of the block with vibration, slope, etc. Perhaps, an oil pan gasket problem.

If you are sure it is head gasket problem, then it may well be. Only you can tell that. Once an engine is shut off, not all that much oil lingers in the head.

A few of these guys swear by the hylomar compound applied to head gaskets. I've honestly never encountered such a profuse leak from a head gasket and I have driven these since '79.

[VWrabbit317]

Lots of good info, I appreciate that.

I'll get up underneath it tomorrow and have a better look. Probably spray it all down with brake clean or something and see if I can see it coming out. It very well could be the the oil pan gasket it always seems wet around it but for some reason I just assumed it was coming from above because it also looked wet. I'll take a good look and get pictures tomorrow!

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[VWrabbit317]

Well you were right Dakatokid, I crawled up underneath for a better look and its leaking above the head gasket (thankfully). Here's some pictures, it may be kind of hard to see. But its either leaking out of the passenger side of the valve cover or the cam gear seal. How common is it for it to leak out of the cam seal?

[Dakotakid]

As common as bears whizzing in the woods.
You can fit a new valve cover gasket and cam end orange circular seal and actual cam seal. Always tighten down the valve cover gradually/evenly as that helps it to seal a little better. You can use SPARINGLY amounts of like Perma-tex sealer to help with the valve cover gasket AND on the cam gear end at each end of the orange circular seal.

BUT, the key is to NOT overdo it on the sealant and have some squeezed on the inside which will find it's way into your oil pump screen.

The cams tend to form a hairline circular-groove where the circular cam seal runs (over time...normal). If you ever have the cam out, use some 1000 grit or finer sandpaper in the palm of your hand to help remove the little groove.....twist-twist-twist, etc.

You will probably never get the seals to stop weeping. So, car washes can be a friend to you from time to time.

I would suspect you need intermediate shaft seal and crank seal AND oil pan seal as well. The usual stuff.