Left boot has a hole from heat damage (from a shop that used oxy acetylene on the outer tie rods when an alignment was done which also ruined the tie rod boots). The right CV boot has a missing clamp. The car drives fine and I do not hear any noise from the CV joint yet. My high freq. hearing is very poor and I may not hear the noise from the CV's if present. What are some ways to diagnose the outer CV joints without removal?
Anyway, I bought a set of FEQ axles $66 ea. Pic below is the passenger side axle on the bottom and a spare OE VW axle on top. As you can see, the OE axle shaft is quite a bit bigger in diameter than the FEQ (same with the driver side axle). Do you think there is an issue with strength with the smaller diameter? If the small shaft is too flexible, would that cause the CV joint to wear prematurely? I am wondering if I should install the new axles or just reboot/ re-grease my old axles? Your thoughts?
The single pinch bolt on the knuckle for the BJ stem, or the two strut housing bolts... no worries.
"loosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber. you need a machine to re-align."
loosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber.
Quote from: air-cooled or diesel on January 18, 2015, 08:19:58 pmloosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber. MK1s had the eccentric bolts and slots, MK2 strut housings are not slotted and go back together in the same place. Edit: Bentley indicates a special, narrow eccentric bolt can be used; so if you have all standard bolts, no camber worries... If you have an eccentric, just mark its position before removal.
That is totally false, I've owned 8 mkii's, everyone had between 3 and 6 degrees of camber adjustment. With stock bolts...