Both my axles have outer CV boot issues where grease is spilling out. Left boot has a hole from heat damage (from a shop that used oxy acetylene on the outer tie rods when an alignment was done which also ruined the tie rod boots). The right CV boot has a missing clamp. The car drives fine and I do not hear any noise from the CV joint yet. My high freq. hearing is very poor and I may not hear the noise from the CV's if present. What are some ways to diagnose the outer CV joints without removal?
Anyway, I bought a set of FEQ axles $66 ea. Pic below is the passenger side axle on the bottom and a spare OE VW axle on top. As you can see, the OE axle shaft is quite a bit bigger in diameter than the FEQ (same with the driver side axle). Do you think there is an issue with strength with the smaller diameter? If the small shaft is too flexible, would that cause the CV joint to wear prematurely? I am wondering if I should install the new axles or just reboot/ re-grease my old axles? Your thoughts?
Left boot has a hole from heat damage (from a shop that used oxy acetylene on the outer tie rods when an alignment was done which also ruined the tie rod boots). The right CV boot has a missing clamp. The car drives fine and I do not hear any noise from the CV joint yet. My high freq. hearing is very poor and I may not hear the noise from the CV's if present. What are some ways to diagnose the outer CV joints without removal?
Constant Maintenance axles? Glad so many people have them.
First look for a hole in the boot.
I jack one front wheel off the ground, then hold the shaft wile rotating the ends, if there is rotational play, replace.
Anyway, I bought a set of FEQ axles $66 ea. Pic below is the passenger side axle on the bottom and a spare OE VW axle on top. As you can see, the OE axle shaft is quite a bit bigger in diameter than the FEQ (same with the driver side axle). Do you think there is an issue with strength with the smaller diameter? If the small shaft is too flexible, would that cause the CV joint to wear prematurely? I am wondering if I should install the new axles or just reboot/ re-grease my old axles? Your thoughts?
That big one is probably hollow and 3% lighter.
I never rejoint them, just get a lifetime one and replace as needed, it's faster and not as greasy.
Thanks! These are lifetime axles (China), hope I never have to use the warranty. What's the pros/ cons of undoing the ball joint vs undoing 2 strut bolts to get the axles out? Will camber be disturbed?
If the three bolts that attach the ball joint to the control arm are loosened, camber can be affected.
The single pinch bolt on the knuckle for the BJ stem, or the two strut housing bolts... no worries.
I often do the strut bolts, because they're slightly easier than pushing the BJ stem outta the knuckle. (6 or .5doz) YMMV
The single pinch bolt on the knuckle for the BJ stem, or the two strut housing bolts... no worries.
loosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber. you need a machine to re-align. the single bj (stem) bolt/nut and a pry bar; that is if you need to to get space to cleanly remove axle(s).
i find even boot kits for some cars to be a lot more than swapping complete axles. if your boot (&etc) are gone; its easier to replace whole axle; ive in the past referbeshed cv's. but joint is usually gone enough to where its easier and more cost effective to swap. i replace on a regular basis(like 5 or so years).
loosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber.
MK1s had the eccentric bolts and slots, MK2 strut housings are not slotted and go back together in the same place.
Edit: Bentley indicates a special, narrow eccentric bolt
can be used; so if you have all standard bolts, no camber worries... If you have an eccentric, just mark its position before removal.
loosening the strut bolt(s) will change camber.
MK1s had the eccentric bolts and slots, MK2 strut housings are not slotted and go back together in the same place.
Edit: Bentley indicates a special, narrow eccentric bolt can be used; so if you have all standard bolts, no camber worries... If you have an eccentric, just mark its position before removal.
That is totally false, I've owned 8 mkii's, everyone had between 3 and 6 degrees of camber adjustment. With stock bolts...
I remember having to buy a camber bolt (old one snapped even with lots of penetrating oil) on my 92 Jetta when I had to replace one of the struts a few years ago. I'll be paying someone to do the axles (on a lift) soon. Too damn cold outside DIY on the ground.
Anyone here measure and adjust their own camber? I have an easy and accurate way to adjust toe but never tried camber.
