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Glue for airbox, etc, plastic mods?
by
sparkoid
on 26 Oct, 2014 13:32
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Anyone know what kind of glue works on the black plastic VW uses for air boxes, timing belt covers, etc? My trusty standby, JB Weld, not so good in this app.
I just put a European 1.9na 1Y engine in my pickup, awesome but noisy with a cone filter. Have a MK3 or so 1.9 TD airbox that I want to mod to fit in the available space...
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#1
by
libbydiesel
on 26 Oct, 2014 13:45
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It may be ABS in which case glue for ABS pipe in the plumbing section would be ideal. Make sure that whatever you use cannot allow any hardened bits to break lose and get sucked into your engine.
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#2
by
ORCoaster
on 26 Oct, 2014 15:11
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I find that for most of the plastic parts on the VW that 5 minute epoxy works well enough. But that has been for dash, speaker grills and such in the interior. Gluing up something under the hood? Best clean off with degreaser good and I always tend to sand it up to make some grip available. Smooth plastic seems to allow the glue to pop off if stressed or hit in a sharp rap or tap.
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#3
by
ftm1776
on 26 Oct, 2014 19:27
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Shoe-Goo is pretty good stuff. I would not hesitate to use it on the air box or fan shroud, even in the area of the heater core, especially if the surface is prepped correctly and reinforcing applied. It is very tough when set. Also, many other uses......works great on boot holes !!!!!
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#4
by
theman53
on 26 Oct, 2014 20:45
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If you figure out what material you are dealing with and what temp range it will work in and what fluids will contact it many recommendations are possible. Most epoxies, polyurethanes, and polyester resins could be used, but each are sometimes picky. A good "all around" is the 5 minute quick, but it doesn't like ABS that well to adhere to.
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#5
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 27 Oct, 2014 01:34
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If they are ABS, and i don't know how to tell since they predate the recycling symbols, as far as i know the best 'glue' for modifications and repairs is a jar of a good solvent and many shavings of ABS.
At least, i've seen where travel trailer restoration enthusiasts will fix broken ABS parts by roughing it up, troweling in more ABS, clamping in position, waiting for it to cure, sanding, and painting. I've also heard of it being done to reconstitute shattered cowling after a motorcycle accident.
I've heard of both acetone and MEK being used, but MEK will rot your brain. or more accurately it will de-fat the myelin in your nerves. de-fat your skin cells too, which itches.
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#6
by
sgnimj96
on 27 Oct, 2014 05:41
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I fix a lot of stuff with 2-part epoxy, the cheap stuff from harborfreight, but if I want it to last, I add some fiberglass cloth or cut strands to the mix before it hardens. The fiberglass fibers will give it strength and resist cracking. May take some practice, you dont want air bubbles in the epoxy when it hardens. That stuff hardens really fast (even faster when warm) so sometimes I do it in layers.
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#7
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Oct, 2014 15:05
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When I read the reply about motorcycle parts I remembered that when my son shattered all the cowling on his we were lucky to get some of those tubes of epoxy from the auto body store that mixed as you squirted the two components together. All sorts of choices on type of plastic you want to repair. Just think of the automotive industry today with all the plasiticized parts hanging off everywhere. It was good stuff too. Sandable, paintable and you could file on it to shape it in something like 15 mins. Time is money in the repair world.
Oh and another thing, Wasn't Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone MEK a miracle drug for awhile for those with muscle cramps?
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#8
by
TimpanogosSlim
on 27 Oct, 2014 15:40
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When I read the reply about motorcycle parts I remembered that when my son shattered all the cowling on his we were lucky to get some of those tubes of epoxy from the auto body store that mixed as you squirted the two components together. All sorts of choices on type of plastic you want to repair. Just think of the automotive industry today with all the plasiticized parts hanging off everywhere. It was good stuff too. Sandable, paintable and you could file on it to shape it in something like 15 mins. Time is money in the repair world.
Oh and another thing, Wasn't Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone MEK a miracle drug for awhile for those with muscle cramps?
yeah, the body shop probably has an epoxy for the job. There's a place across the street from the house of hose and the auto body & paint supply here that specializes in bumper repair, would probably know just the product. assuming the girls at the auto body store don't.
But is it ABS, polypropylene, what? I don't think my mk2 airbox is marked and i don't know how to tell.
Maybe with the right stuff it doesn't matter.
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#9
by
Gizmoman
on 27 Oct, 2014 23:20
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I don't know either but a dab of lacquer thinner or MEK on a piece should tell you pretty quick. If it melts, you have your "glue"
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#10
by
sparkoid
on 28 Oct, 2014 11:34
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Thanks guys, lots of stuff to try!
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#11
by
libbydiesel
on 28 Oct, 2014 13:00
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I would use acetone rather than lacquer thinner or MEK. Lacquer thinner may contain acetone but it will be other chemicals as well. Although acetone in high concentrations is harmful, it is a natural byproduct of human biological processes.
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#12
by
scrounger
on 28 Oct, 2014 13:08
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Make sure you overlap the parts and roughen the surface with 36 grit abrasive cloth.
Shoe goo works very well on many plastics. The black plastic isn't ABS.