Valve cover leak - 9th try

[Gizmoman]

It still leaks - just a tiny amount though and I've had other projects to work on.
I'll be getting back to it though.

I'll try the "not-over-tight" method.

[libbydiesel]

Use 'The Right Stuff'.  I've found it to be exceptional in oil situations.

[Gizmoman]

I used the Right Stuff between the gasket and the cover, and Hylomar between the gasket and the head (so I could remove it when needed). The RS really appears to be very good.
It seems Hylomar is better at metal to metal (although it's leaking less than it ever did before). I believe it's leaking at the Hylomar joint by the cam cap.

I'll do RS on the lower flange and the cam cap.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Is the valve cover perfectly straight? If so, try bending the corner that leaks to exert more force on the gasket in that area.

[Gizmoman]

Against my best intentions, I ran a bead of the "Right Stuff" on both surfaces yesterday afternoon.
If it leaks now, I'll just replace the engine

[nissannx]

Problem solved? Does it still leak?

[Gizmoman]

Problem solved? Does it still leak?

I will let you know as soon as it's back on the road again. I was "adjusting" the complicated shift linkage under the van over the weekend, and broke the 32 year old plastic bits at the end of the shift lever - waiting on new parts now.

Good Stuff really is good. When I had it off this time, I inspected the previous application of Good Stuff between the gasket and cover (mentioned earlier in this thread) and it looks flawless - like one part. This time the GS was applied on the gasket face (pressurized can and nozzle make a nice thin, continuous bead). Then I gently set it onto a spotless head. I seriously doubt it will leak after this but hope I don't have to remove the cover anytime soon.

Will update as soon as it's running again.

[Rising]

I never had a valve cover seal until I got a G60 aluminum one. They always leaked. No amount of flat hammering or vice work did the trick. I haven't tried an aaz or ahu cover yet, but I am sure they will be problematic as well.

I just received my brand new one piece rubber gasket and cast g60 Valve cover today. I'm already using Allen bolts vs. Studs so installation should be a snap. My question is: with a new rubber gasket and cast valve cover can I install this dry? Or should I add something to it? My last attempt with the old one piece rubber gasket and stock cover was with the right stuff on both sides of the gasket all the way around and let it sit over night and I still got a (smaller) leak. So I'm a bit paranoid at this point.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

My 92 Eco valve cover does not leak. It's the stock stamped metal rusty one that's been straightened  with a hammer. No RTV except the halfmoon peice at the cam. The trick is to tighten the nuts in stages after the engine is hot (rubber softened) till the leak stops. It took a few tightenings to achieve dryness. The only leak I have now is a very slow leak from one of the axle flanges. On a new concrete driveway, even 3 drops a night of clear synchromesh makes an eyesore. I put one of those 3' x 6' sheet metal pan under the car to catch the tranny drips.

[Gizmoman]

Do you have a 50 degree engine?

[theman53]

I don't put any silicone on the 1.6 with the G60 cover and it works fine

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Do you have a 50 degree engine?

No I do not. Does it matter? If the gasket has not achieved a perfect seal, both will still leak. The 50 degree engine will leak more because of pooling.

[Gizmoman]

Do you have a 50 degree engine?

No I do not. Does it matter? If the gasket has not achieved a perfect seal, both will still leak. The 50 degree engine will leak more because of pooling.

Well, I'd say more like flooding . Apparently I'm the exception to the rule. I believe I have stopped it 99.9%. I did find that the brand new rubber grommet at the hockey puck leaks a tad as well - that's how full this thing gets! I believe the 1.6 has a drain in the head that is lower so it drains much faster. The 1.9 head has a higher drain and doesn't drain nearly as well. No expert though.

[Rising]

Okay I'm losing my mind Here.

After my last attempt failing (rubber gasket and the right stuff on both sides) I ordered me up a g60 valve cover and a fresh victor reinz rubber gasket kit. Painted and polished the valve cover up and then installed it and my gasser intake. Lightly torqued  all the Allen bolts in the same pattern as the head bolts incrementally getting tighter until it felt pretty snug holding by the head of the ratchet. Still leaks on the timing belt side where it always had but worse that with the stamped cover and right stuff. I'm about to lose my mind.

Should I snug the bolts down a bit more? I've heard not to overtighten these since its just aluminum. But how is it possible that its still leaking!!! At least its prettier 

image url

[theman53]

Did someone not install the cam seal properly? Still the new G60 cover shouldn't leak worse... The gasket I get has a metal insert so you cannot crush it too much. I would take it off and clean everything and install it again, tightening much tighter.