745: Its not a fuel pin, thats just what the Cummins guys call them. Its a ramp. And the tranny is a simple conclusion.
If you want to be technical, it is an
offset ground tapered pin, not a
rampRamp
1
: a sloping way or plane: as
a : a sloping floor, walk, or roadway leading from one level to another
b : a slope for launching boats
No room for cylindrical shapes on a plane.
As far as I'm concerned, we got the same parts and speak the same language, may as well call it the same thing.
Since I have Cummins AND VW engines, it really doesn't make sense for me to call it 2 different names does it?
Also I specifically asked him what I asked here. He said what I was saying.
You asked;
My IDI has a worked pump and a smaller turbo (no lag, and pushes 22 lbs). I did a 2.5" straight exhaust and opened up the intake a bit plus a lightweight flywheel and South Bend Stage II clutch. And I got a bunch of newer parts on it like a complete 16V brake setup. But anyway the thing that irritates me is that I really cant go past 70 mph with it. Additionally it is pretty crappy when trying to pass people. Off the line its ok. But as we all know that it runs out of steam about 3,500 rpm and up. So I was thinking about selling and moving to a VR6. I know I can get about 25 mpg highway (30+ with a TDI 5th gear which I plan on doing if I do go this direction). So between the 2 (my built IDI and a stockish VR6) what is the driving experience difference? Is the VR6 considerably bit quicker both off the line and passing (say 55 mph zone)? And what is a VR6 like on the highway (can you easily cruise at 75 mph uphill without the engine sounding like its going to fly apart)?
And he told you exactly what?
I thought I had the ACH but I am thinking I have the AVX. Although my car is not an eco-diesel, it must have had a swap then. And this would explain why my speedometer is constantly showing 9-10 mph slow. I guess I could need a ACN or CHD.
I will have to get my tranny model later as its been raining here. First thanks for the VR6 info. I have a K14 turbo, the pump has been worked by Chason Diesel in Garner NC, 2.5" straight pipe, and improved the intake a bit. There is a guy working on a fuel pin to help with the higher RPM's and I am on the trial list. Maybe that will make the difference. . Fuel mileage is of course a concern, but 25 or so mpg highway for a few days a week isnt bad. Especially if I can pass people.
So YOU are a Cummins guy? 25MPG isn't bad, it's better than my full size 4x4 gets with the cruise at 75, but not a lot better
So by the time I get to 65-70 mph my car is out of steam and running like 3600 rpm.
Something is wrong with it that stock parts would fix. Fuel or air filter?
Just reposting this because it is right.
OK. So my issue with higher speeds is that I have an ACH code tranny. (1st: 3.45 2nd:1.94 3rd:1.37 4th:1.03 5th:0.75 R&P:3.94) So that explains why my speedo is off and why at 60 mph it is revving well, and at 70 mph its way to high.
My TD is properly setup. It actually pulls well until about 55 mph. Its making as much power as it really can without getting crazy.
MPH in 5th (4) @3500RPM FF 83 ACH 78
Apparently mmy 1.6 was a little better And it cruised effortlessly at 75 while yours should be fine to 78
The turbo has little to do with it. 22 psi is 22 psi. It still pushes a little smoke at higher speeds if I floor it, so I am getting fuel. My tires are stock size, and my rims are 15" BBS. My tach is correct. The issue isnt that its revving to high at say 70 mph, because thats like 3,200 or so rpm's. The issue is that past 50 mph if I try to pass someone it has no guts at all. It just makes no power. Now, it might not be getting enough fuel at that point, which a bigger fuel pin would solve. But also its running so high RPM's that anything steady past 3,200 is just asking for trouble. These IDI's may like to rev, but thats only between shifts. I would not try to hold this thing steady at 75 mph, as thats asking for destruction.
WHAT?Aint no way in hell I am downshifting at 50 mph to 4th in that car. Thats about 4,800 rpms. Thats spinning a bearing territory.
And keeping it steady past 3,200 rpm is asking for trouble. At that speed I barely have to touch the gas and I have 22 psi. The K24 would barely pull 12 psi then. It was just way to big for the engine.
Funny, none of the 4 speed cars was limited to 50
Yes 22 psi is 22 psi. It has more than enough air volume as well at higher RPM's. The K24 I had was a dog on this car. I tried to get the K14 down to 15 psi but the idiots at www.boostvalve.com will not answer their phone no matter what. I need a different spring to lower it.might be a clue here for you
OK, see these engines can spin to 6K. But they start defueling at 3300 RPM. Its a inherent issue with VE pumps. So even if you can get it so spin higher its a waste essentially unless you need to go that fast. Also a huge difference between these and their gas counterparts is the cam. You will run into all sorts of fun trouble trying to spin these things much higher than 6K. And even below 6K you run into problems with fuel timing.
You have a built pump, this was adjusted for
I made an error in reporting my RPM's at 40 mph. Since my speedo is 10 off, 40 is not bad to downshift in. But 50 I will not bother to as I have no guts at that point, which is about 3300.
Again my tach is pretty accurate. It has been verified with a timer.
As I have said before it has no problems accelerating to about 55. Its trying to go above that, that is the huge issue. And its exactly what you need to do to pass people going slow in a 55 zone. If I had a better tranny say a ACN it would greatly improve my top end capability as I would be close to the optimum 2,800 for 60. Or if I had a 4T geared one I would have a much better 4th and 5th. Any of those would put the car in the proper powerband.
Now to solve the fueling issue I talked to my local diesel guy. I will be going up there next month to work out some stuff using Cummins VE pump parts (Bosch factory stuff) to put in my pump so it will not defuel at 3,200. The goal is to have to fuel up to 5,500. That would solve the entire power problem. Why nobody has actually fixed these pumps to do that yet, is beyond me. But Cummins guys have been doing it for a long time. Think along these lines: http://www.mandhinc.net/DPD-1-F.html I may have to change out more than just those parts though. May have to end up doing some work to basically fit a 4-BT pump on the car.
lolIt takes one washer bro.
I did the governor mod already, been done for over a year now. Its pushed back to about 6K now. The governor mod does not alter where the fuel pin shuts down fueling.
I called Giles (he wasnt in) but he does make a fuel pin for these. That could potentially solve my passing issue. But it will not solve my top speed issue. That is a tranny problem.
745: Its not a fuel pin, thats just what the Cummins guys call them.
The fuel pin does have to do with boost. Its not directly tied to boost though. Just in the manner that more fuel earlier = faster spool. Its the same pin the Cummins guys change to keep fueling higher RPM's.
Now I just have to find a proper trans.
#9 The control cone. Often called a fuel pin. Thats what Cummins guys change out to get more fuel in higher RPM's. Thats what I am going to ask Giles make for me.
And 3,200 rpm is much to close to the defueling point for me. 70 mph should be 2,800.
CAn yo point to the part where that 'ramp' mechanism gets any input on RPM? Nope.
Jaceb-GLI: I will not blow up the K14 @ 22psi. Because I am not there all the time. Its only for short periods of WOT.
Longer ratios will help because they will put me in the powerband of the engine. Not at the edge of it as I am now.
You do not understand what the gov mod vs. the fuel pin are. The gov mod allows the engine to rev past the factory point. It does not mean you will get proper fueling past a certain point (that point in a 1.6TD as I already stated is about 3,300 rpm).
Also if the fuel ramp and pic were not a big deal then why do Cummins guys change them out and why does Giles custom grind them? You need to learn a lot more.
No, you just haven't
understood how the gov mod does what it dies.
quote author=jaed_43725 link=topic=34627.msg328445#msg328445 date=1398470108]
bajacalal: as I have stated before my spring is shimmed to set the gov back.
My diesel shop has lots of experience with VW IDI engines as well as TDI.
And I dont have much hills around me so passing people on them is not an issue.
theman53: Read what I said about the gov above.
I already adjusted the MBC. You really are not underst air. How manyanding the MBC. Different springs are for different levels of boost. Why? Because the body of the MBC can only be so big so you use different springs with different rates to adjust within the amount of travel given by the body of the MBC.
And no the turbo is not out of breath. I have plenty of times must I say that? I am not rolling coal at higher RPM's. If there is not smoke then you are burning all your fuel. That means you have plenty of air at a given RPM. The K24 is entirely to big for the 1.6TD. It works on the 1.9TD. And if I could adapt a VNT I would.
[/quote]If you had an EGT gauge, I suspect it would be crying.
Yes I know all about heated air having less O2. But when its only blitzed to 22 psi it makes no discernible difference. I do plan on a FMIC however. The K24 can not spool as fast unless you are running anti-lag. The moral of this is a much better designed turbo can make up for a lot. A properly designed turbo can spool just like a small one and move the volume of air as a larger one.
How does heating air remove O@? it doesn't, just decreases the density.
Not to be kinda harsh or anything, but I give this thread
I truly hope everything comes out OK for OP's car.
Topic: Tuned IDI vs VR6. (Read 18427 times)
