Holset replaces K-14

[Gizmoman]

My MBC has a very tiny bleed hole on the wastegate can side and works fantastic. I fear you may be over thinking this. :-)

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk

Yea, I usually think about it till I get it wrong .
I was amazed at how the conversation about bleeding the air took off but I had some time to kill this morning over coffee (don't want to start making noise to early on a Sunday morning).

I'll just drill a hole - certainly much smaller than 1/16

[Alcaid]

Just buying a NXS Boost Controller on Ebay would have saved you a lot of time, posts and thinking

[745 turbogreasel]

Drill 0.020 is enough
http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm
but I just put a ding in the ball seat.

[bbob203]

Yea those nxs boost controllers work good just take a lot of test runs to get dialed in to the exact psi you want.

[Gizmoman]

Just buying a NXS Boost Controller on Ebay would have saved you a lot of time, posts and thinking

And where's the fun in that  
Here is the 10 gauge WAIC bracket. Still needs mounting holes and a good coat of paint.



The assembly (upside down)



In position



 The plan is to do another silicone 90 and a very short straight to the left port of the cooler. The right cooler port will 90 into the intake I still have to build. About as short as it can get without doing the "direct intake mount" mentioned earlier.

Oh well, there goes another weekend. At least I have a turbo drain that will actually drain


(Edit)I know I post a lot but I guess this is the only place I can exchange ideas on this project which has consumed most of my free time over the last year+. No one I know locally would have a clue what an AAZ diesel engine is (or most any engine for that matter). As I'm doing this in the VW diesel vacuum of San Diego, this forum is my only source of knowledge, inspiration and acknowledgement and I appreciate every response.

JW

[theman53]

The fitting you say is #8 measures .38 doesn't make sense. A #8 JIC should measure .50 as 8/16 =1/2 and the 8 number is how many 16ths the id is supposed to be according to what the hydro guy seminar I took a while back. #6 would be .375" as it would be 3/8 or 6/16 and I could see if you had one of those in  there what kind of problems it could be. #10 should measure .625" and be plenty.

Also, glad you went to the drill a small hole idea. I would think that if you didn't and went with that 2lb spring setup it would bleed off too much boost so your wastegate wouldn't see it and not open right. I could be wrong, but that is how I saw it.

[bbob203]

I really hope you get a better clamp on there than that squeezee clamp. 

[CrazyAndy]

How about a light ball and spring valve going the other way in parallel?  It would not let air by while building or under boost (since pressures would be either against the ball or even on both sides so the ball wouldn't move anyway), but would let all the air back when letting off due to its light spring.  That way we would not have to bleed boost control air to atmosphere; a true closed system!

You've basically described a check valve?

The plumbing becomes complex but what i am referring to is a 1 or 2 psi cracking pressure check valve oriented opposite the MBC and connected to the same lines. Whenever the pressure on the compressor side is lower than the pressure on the WGA side, it would vent back to the compressor side.

Actually that's what I meant to say.  Apologies for the incorrect wording.

[Gizmoman]

The fitting you say is #8 measures .38 doesn't make sense. A #8 JIC should measure .50 as 8/16 =1/2 and the 8 number is how many 16ths the id is supposed to be according to what the hydro guy seminar I took a while back. #6 would be .375" as it would be 3/8 or 6/16 and I could see if you had one of those in  there what kind of problems it could be. #10 should measure .625" and be plenty.

Also, glad you went to the drill a small hole idea. I would think that if you didn't and went with that 2lb spring setup it would bleed off too much boost so your wastegate wouldn't see it and not open right. I could be wrong, but that is how I saw it.

I agree with everything you posted as well as the 8/16ths value applied to hyd fittings. I think this was some tubing the PO's tig welder had handy so he used it. The way I wrote it made it sound like #8 wasn't big enough, my mistake.

Regarding the reverse check concept, the boost is also hitting the backside of the ball so it has boost pressure (+ 2 lbs) on it during boost, so it's gonna stay shut for sure. It only allows reverse flow when there's no boost at all.  As soon as boost begins (even .5 psi) it shuts again.
I suppose the pressure in the can would lift the ball and dump the pot pretty quickly as soon as boost let off though but possibly not as quickly as the hole will. Either way, I'm still just going to drill a tiny hole. I had never planned on building this anyway, just sketched up a concept that was mentioned earlier as I couldn't work it out in my head entirely.

[Gizmoman]

I really hope you get a better clamp on there than that squeezee clamp. 

Yeah, I'd like to find a good full 360 clamp like I had for my Gee Bee silicone coolant hoses. All they have here at the FLAPS are the cheap ones.

[Alcaid]

AN fittings have less ID through the fittings themselves than what their size predicts unfortunately

[Gizmoman]

AN fittings have less ID through the fittings themselves than what their size predicts unfortunately

Good point Alcaid.
Here is the bit I removed - actually even smaller than 3/8".



Also, I found some good hose clamps with a full ID band

http://www.delcity.net/store/Shielded-Hose-Clamps/p_798727

I really hate to bring this up, especially after all this work, but that photo I shot earlier makes me wonder if the turbo is simply too low for a 50 degree engine. There was a line drawing of the engine somewhere and if I were to draw in the oil level in the crankcase, I'll bet it levels off half-way up the drain-line. The only solution would be a custom exhaust or flipping it upside down - OMG
As it is, I think I will add a steel brace from the block to the tab I have on the exhaust flange I made. It would be designed to parallel the drain hose and protect it from getting caught on something. A big chunk of re-tread flipping up and catching it would take it out in a hurry.

[Alcaid]

Don't look like a proper text book oil drain, is it even above the oil level in the pan?

You might actually need a scavenging oil pump on the oil drain as Porsche has done, some good reading here: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

[Gizmoman]

Don't look like a proper text book oil drain, is it even above the oil level in the pan?

You might actually need a scavenging oil pump on the oil drain as Porsche has done, some good reading here: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm

No, it's not above the oil but if you do a search on the topic, the discussion goes on forever.
It's not looking good based on this drawing. Heck, I even think my turbo is lower than the one shown as I have a 3/4" spacer between it and the manifold.


Thanks for the concept of a scavenge pump Alcaid but for $800+ I think I'd flip the manifold first (or build one).
This is turning into a very bad dream.

[RabbitJockey]

if your turbo is oriented the same as the k14 was then ur turbo is sitting much higher than the one in the diagram, you can see thats a picture of a tdi too.