It's for when people can't fix the stock automatic glow plug setup.
They regress and put a manual switch on them, switch actuates a relay that activates the glowplugs as long as the switch is toggled, be it a momentary or on-off affair.
I say that somewhat tongue in cheek since it's very popular to do and I'm in the minority, me and VW and Mercedes and every other diesel car maker
since the stone age, that thinks we ought to be able to manage to have our glowplugs function without intervention at this point in human history.
If you want a neat project, look at a 240D Mercedes glow plug relay/controller.
It's an elegant self contained system with seperate leads for each glow plug and a very low failure rate.
Been trying to talk someone into doing it so I don't have to.
Provided you use a solenoid (like Vince described) you can use virtually any momentary contact switch (ie push and hold - like a door bell switch).
Lots of options out there. It just needs to be rated at 12V and a couple of amps DC, the solenoid takes all the load of the glow plugs.
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Thanks......"push and hold" switch, I get it.
I'll look at 240D Mercedes set up as suggested.
As someone who converted a gasser to diesel, I followed that formula pretty closely... I made my own glow plug timer using a car alarm adjustable timed relay and a push-momentary button. The button just provides a ground (low) to trigger the relay timing cycle, and that drives another heavy relay in the engine compartment. I can change the timing with the twist of a knob; I leave it burning much longer in the winter. Fuse block with 4 fuses and separate wires to the plugs routes the current.
I put the button on the left so I can hit it when I open the door; by the time I'm seated and ready to start, the plugs are full hot.
As someone who converted a gasser to diesel,
Nice. The open door thing reminds me or Porsche and the left of column key switch.
I can honestly say I have no idea where the body control module for my "originally AAZ" car is but it actually does turn the GPs on as soon as the driver's door is closed, all on its own. So when you actually hit the key the glow cycle is already complete more or less. At most the GP light is on for 15 seconds or so. Pretty cool. No idea what would be involved in extracting the module from an AAZ car but I bet it is fairly simple to wire in to something else.
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As someone who converted a gasser to diesel,
Nice. The open door thing reminds me or Porsche and the left of column key switch.
Yep, exactly where I got the concept... I had a '74 911 targa for a few years.
As someone who converted a gasser to diesel, I followed that formula pretty closely... I made my own glow plug timer using a car alarm adjustable timed relay and a push-momentary button. The button just provides a ground (low) to trigger the relay timing cycle, and that drives another heavy relay in the engine compartment. I can change the timing with the twist of a knob; I leave it burning much longer in the winter. Fuse block with 4 fuses and separate wires to the plugs routes the current.
Not to knock your implementation - it's a good one - but timer relays are a thing. An industrial commodity. You can get Omron 12v 5A 10 second relays on ebay for $6.50 shipped. They're even shipping from within the US.
'course, some are octal and thus require an octal socket. Others have tabs sticking out the bottom like a regular automotive relay.
Take this one for example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Timer-relay-H3Y-2-H3Y-250V-5A-10sec-10s-DC12V-/370919698294?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item565c896f76Might get one myself and do something similar in the jetta.
The other thing i picked up that might be neat to integrate into the dash is a digital shunt ammeter / volt meter. Basically you put a big strip of metal with a known (low) resistance in-line on the power, and run wires from that into the display unit which uses the voltage drop across the big resistor to tell you how much current is flowing through it. The unit i bought also gives you the voltage.
So, while the glow solenoid is engaged, it would display the current battery voltage and how much current is being drawn by the glow plugs. A sudden unexplained drop in current would indicate that a glow plug has failed or is disconnected or has it's individual pimp fuse blown.
I think i paid $12 shipped for the 100A 6v-28v panel mount digital shunt ammeter / volt meter, including the shunt.
I made my own glow plug timer using a car alarm adjustable timed relay and a push-momentary button. The button just provides a ground (low) to trigger the relay timing cycle, and that drives another heavy relay in the engine compartment. I can change the timing with the twist of a knob; I leave it burning much longer in the winter. Fuse block with 4 fuses and separate wires to the plugs routes the current. and ready to start, the plugs are full hot.
I used one of those to give an afterglow effect when I wired up a remote starter. My output went to the stock GP circuit and the stock relay eventually welded itself closed, lol.
In addition to Vince's write up, I added status indicators for the Ford solenoid and each GP, after the fuses. There was a pigtail that went back to the cluster.
My fuse pod was made from an old VDO gauge.
I added a red diffused LED for the Ford solenoid and yellow diffused LEDs for each GP. If a fuse blew, the associated LED would not light. The stock GP LED worked, but shuts off prior to the stock relay opening... I've noticed this in all the VW IDIs that I've owned.
Voltage was monitored via a custom pod.
The other thing i picked up that might be neat to integrate into the dash is a digital shunt ammeter / volt meter. Basically you put a big strip of metal with a known (low) resistance in-line on the power, and run wires from that into the display unit which uses the voltage drop across the big resistor to tell you how much current is flowing through it. The unit i bought also gives you the voltage.
Sounds pretty interesting. You got everything required for $12.50?
-Todd
The other thing i picked up that might be neat to integrate into the dash is a digital shunt ammeter / volt meter. Basically you put a big strip of metal with a known (low) resistance in-line on the power, and run wires from that into the display unit which uses the voltage drop across the big resistor to tell you how much current is flowing through it. The unit i bought also gives you the voltage.
Sounds pretty interesting. You got everything required for $12.50?
-Todd
$11.99 as it turns out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201005365760turned up in less than 2 weeks but shipping times from china vary due to containerization.
The shunt looks suspiciously like it might fit inside a full size ANL fuse block, but i haven't test fit that yet. it does need to be *inside something, even if that turns out to just be a length of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.
The display is small enough that i wonder if i can replace the "shift" indicator with it. Or just hide it behind that window.
