-
#90
by
jhax
on 28 Jan, 2014 22:22
-
I am pretty positive that I did not put a picture up? I am confused now. Thank you for the support though. It sucks being fresh out of college without a career right away and having to work through school so you could pay rent and couldn't join all those awesome super cool school clubs so companies could say you are extremely well rounded and hire you on the spot.
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#91
by
TylerDurden
on 29 Jan, 2014 05:10
-
Anybody have any homemade remedies for a leak down adapter hose for this engine? I have heard using the bottom part of an injector housing gutting it i assume. Like I said though I can really feel the compression when I turn the engine by hand. I am just really paranoid right now.
If you have a compression tester, the VW adapter can be used by putting the clear tube onto the adapter instead of the gauge. It might take some fiddling with other tubes to connect, but it is do-able.
Some parts stores loan tools, so that may be another option.
(As for old glow plugs... I tried punching out the core of a dead duraterm and that was a no-go, so it will need to be drilled out. But, GPs generally are a PITA to deal with, so I'd use a compression tester adapter.)
-
#92
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jan, 2014 06:55
-
If any valves are hit by the pistons, it weakens the stem. Even if the engine seems to run right initially, there is a tendency for the head to fall off the valve down the road a bit.
-
#93
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 12:49
-
Good news everyone! It starts and idles on its own. Not getting any throttle response though. I can put the pedal to the floor and no increase in engine speed. Ho much do I need to turn this vertical governor post counterclockwise?
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#94
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 13:01
-
Does the governor mod affect throttle response in the higher revs?
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#95
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 13:06
-
When I rev into the mid to higher range and I take my foot off of the throttle the revs stay for a couple of seconds and then go back down.
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#96
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 14:51
-
I just tried to take it up the driveway and I have very very little power under load.
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#97
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 15:00
-
The IP seems maxed out on the advance side.
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk
-
#98
by
TylerDurden
on 29 Jan, 2014 17:01
-
I just tried to take it up the driveway and I have very very little power under load.
Getting any dark soot when u floor it?
-
#99
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 17:17
-
Did not notice my back window is dirty. I think the hanging idle is caused by the max fuel screw turned too far in. Would it be because the timing belt is off by a tooth even though it isn't. Allow me to explain...when I first did the timing belt, the engine set at TDC and the injection pump was a tooth off. After the timing belt change I could not get that tooth on that mark. After this whole fiasco I finally managed the align the mark on the sprocket dead on with the mark on the back plate. Would this adjustment make that big a difference? I wouldnt think so. I have the top of the pump about a millimeter away from the #2 injector hard line.
Justin
-
#100
by
vanbcguy
on 29 Jan, 2014 17:31
-
IP timing can't be set by looking at marks or distance from a point. You either need to use a dial gauge and do it by the book or time by ear.
Low power can easily be incorrect timing. My guess is you need to advance it but I don't have much to go on.
Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
-
#101
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 17:34
-
I have advanced it as far as it can physically be advanced.
-
#102
by
libbydiesel
on 29 Jan, 2014 18:57
-
The timing is infinitely adjustable. It is impossible to 'advance it as far as it will go'. If you run out of adjustment before the timing is set to the correct spec, that just means you're a tooth off on the belt. If you're just timing by ear, then be aware that overly advanced timing is just as bad as overly retarded timing. If you have it correctly timed, have no power, rpms are hanging and you've run out of idle adjustment, then the accelerator shaft to lever alignment is wrong. You need to rotate one spline so the shaft goes CW and the lever goes CCW. After that you'll need to readjust idle and max fuel.
-
#103
by
jhax
on 29 Jan, 2014 19:17
-
Yeah i know my marks are dead on on the cam, crank and IP sprocket. So it's the fine tuning. I tried going the dial gauge route but the damn adapter (new) has knurling at the end that screws into the dial indicator (also new) which causes he gauge to catch onto the adapter, it was just a real hassle trying to get an accurate reading but ill try again tomorrow.
-
#104
by
jhax
on 30 Jan, 2014 11:13
-
Well just as I thought everything is dead on mark wise. I used the dial indicator and got it as close to 0.90 +- .05 as I could and tightened everything up. Still hangs in the higher revs and still feels sluggish in first. I backed off fuel screw as much as I could and adjusted idle accordingly. I also cracked my injectors and heard idle drop at each one. There is a significant amount of white smoke too which tells me it still may be out of time.
Sent from my DROID SPYDER using Tapatalk