My 1.6D is running aweful

[Derekxj]

Can anyone tell me if there is any danger in severely compensating by swinging the pump, to get where i need to be? As long as it's at the right value i should be okay right?

If you leave the lines  twisted, they can crack, so loosen the delivery pipes and retighten them after adjustment is done so they are not under stress.

Do you mean to loosen up those isolating clamps that hold the lines together? As it was, i had alot of trouble putting the lines back onto the pump.....
I did manage to get it though.

[damac]

You must have put the belt on wrong if the pump is running out of adjustment and is real tight towards engine.  Usually cars run with those alignment marks atleast.

If there isn't air intrusion and your smoke stings and is stinky white, pull the cold start lever, it should get a little smoother and chug less?

If so thats the proof you need to push pump towards head more.

I think you should do the timing by ear just so you get a feel for your engine.  You will learn to hear issues with a running motor and can tell if your timing is off.  I have found that if I do this on a cold motor without cold start lever pulled, I have been able to get pump into bently timing range by tapping body with a mallet while car is running, all mount bolts cracked.  When I find the sweet spot I'm ready with ratched on easy reachable pump mount bolt to keep it in position.  Then I turn it off and tighten the rest.

As was mentioned best to undo ALL hard lines at each end and clamps at this point to free things up and tighten again before final timing nudge.  Then you can do it again for fun.  Haven't had one leak.

[Derekxj]

You must have put the belt on wrong if the pump is running out of adjustment and is real tight towards engine.  Usually cars run with those alignment marks atleast.

If there isn't air intrusion and your smoke stings and is stinky white, pull the cold start lever, it should get a little smoother and chug less?

If so thats the proof you need to push pump towards head more.

I think you should do the timing by ear just so you get a feel for your engine.  You will learn to hear issues with a running motor and can tell if your timing is off.  I have found that if I do this on a cold motor without cold start lever pulled, I have been able to get pump into bently timing range by tapping body with a mallet while car is running, all mount bolts cracked.  When I find the sweet spot I'm ready with ratched on easy reachable pump mount bolt to keep it in position.  Then I turn it off and tighten the rest.

As was mentioned best to undo ALL hard lines at each end and clamps at this point to free things up and tighten again before final timing nudge.  Then you can do it again for fun.  Haven't had one leak.

Yeah this seems like good advice as well, just for the learning sake atleast.

I currently have a BAD coolant leak in that hardlined coolant pipe that runs along the front of the engine. Being as i cant seem to find a replacement ANYWHERE,
im going to remove it tonight, JB weld it and then wrap it with this special pipe sealing wrap that allegidly dries hard as concrete....its meant for stopping leaks.
I cant afford to put another dime into this car at the moment and need to get it running, and running really well tonight......so that i can drive it a few days before i need to drive it 300+ miles for work!

[bbob203]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-JETTA-MK2-1-8-8V-GTI-ENGINE-WATER-PIPE-027121065D-C140-/200910311835

[Derekxj]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-JETTA-MK2-1-8-8V-GTI-ENGINE-WATER-PIPE-027121065D-C140-/200910311835

Is this the same as the 1.6D part? I wonder what VW would get for this piece. Probably an arm and a leg.

[libbydiesel]

THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   
I really appreaciate you taking the time to type this out. This is a pretty damn awesome writeout for a dial-indicator-dummy like myself.
See. When i was first doing my pre-load. i was preloading it to where it said " 20 " in big black numbers. which i NOW understand is .20mm, not TWO mm.
So, basically i need to see the little hand go to 2 and then and only then am i at 2mm. Maybe this was my problem all along. Either way, my pump's base timing marks, as well as timing belt on the sprocket are more or less completely aligned and im apparently WAY off from where i need to be.........This is what really concerns me.....Im not sure why this is like this at all.

Can anyone tell me if there is any danger in severely compensating by swinging the pump, to get where i need to be? As long as it's at the right value i should be okay right?


Thankyou everyone for all of your answers. I have a coolant leak to fix, and a small air leak in my fuel line to fix.....and then i can really get this dang car running hopefully!!!!!! 

I would recommend loosening the unions of the metal lines or even removing the metal lines entirely until the timing is set.  There is no problem with placing the injection pump at any point in it's entire adjustment range, that's what the range of adjustment is there for.  If your metal lines are tightened, then loosen them before rotating the pump any significant amount. 

Did you go back through the writeup step by step?  If so, then what is currently the timing reading at TDC? 

[ORCoaster]

I would measure over with the correct process and tell us what you get.  It may be far enough off that reset of TB would be in order first then the range of adjustment on the pump will be sufficient to dial it in. 

If moving the pump more than a pencil width in any direction is needed I do loosen all the lines on the back of the pump.  No sense breaking them with all the vibration later and being stranded someplace in the dark without a clue why.

[damac]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-JETTA-MK2-1-8-8V-GTI-ENGINE-WATER-PIPE-027121065D-C140-/200910311835

Is this the same as the 1.6D part? I wonder what VW would get for this piece. Probably an arm and a leg.

I can't tell if that is same part number, kind of looks the same.

Here is another retailer.
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Jetta/Cooling/159/1

Oh and here seems to show same part number as that ebay listing?

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=p1d22o55bi1pog55fljgmfir&partnumber=027121065D


I have no clue if your fixes will work, I guess I have been lucky and been able to clean up every one I have come across.

[Mark(The Miser)UK]

According to 'KATE' same part for gassers and 1.6D [ME]

[TylerDurden]

It looks like the turbo version (has oil cooler fitting) is the only option.

It will require blocking off with a cap # 055 121 324 or similar.
 

[TylerDurden]

I've never purchased from these folks...

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1992/volkswagen/jetta/cooling_system/water_distribution_pipe.html

[bbob203]

It looks like the turbo version (has oil cooler fitting) is the only option.

It will require blocking off with a cap # 055 121 324 or similar.
 

Dude I always wondered if something like that existed from VW. I may order some of those. Someday I'm going to rig up a volvo oil cooler so this plug will be needed.

[Derekxj]

Okay gents. so last night, a friend came over and i started back from scratch. read my initial reading.....and tested it twice and came up with roughly the same number....which was about .6     no-wonder it wouldnt run!!!!!!!!

SO, came back to TDC. checked everything....and began the process as described by the folks here.

I timed it to .97
Did a check, and the second time i came to about .95 or .96. 

Car runs pretty darn good i must say now, may need to be advanced a tad bit more..........but now im facing a MUCH larger issue.

While i had the belt and head and everything off. i took the entire bracket off the side of the engine, to replace the motor mount. Had a REAL struggle with it, but did it.

Now...........my brand new timing belt is destroyed. the belt is tensioned perfectly, yet it keeps tracking off of the injection pump sprocket. It LOOKS as though the sprocket is sticking out too far. the belt is hitting the bracket that holds the pump, on the inside. ( i will upload a bunch of photo's tonight ).

How could this be?? im actually really upset. I've had my car off the road for too long, and put too much blood sweat and tears to only now have another annoying issue. Could the bracket have gotten bent while installing motor mount???  my 2 friends who are mechanics think its impossible i bent the 1/4" steel, but the way i see it its the only possibility. Everything else seems right.

Do i REALLY need to completely disassemble the side of the engine again.........AND remove my pump again......to remove the motor mount bracket?  What do i do??       Really need the help from the pro's here.

[8v-of-fury!]

Yup, even 1/16" of a tweak in that mount will cause tracking issues. I've never been able to fix it without removing the mount and pump again.

[srgtlord]

I feel your pain, I have had the belt on and off my 1.6 golf at least 6 times for tracking issues.