ME1.6na crank bolt question

[air-cooled or diesel]

I've got an me 1.6 na motor, I've heard the crank bolt (stock 6 point) can come loose(iirc). what part should I replace it with.
I checked with vw and they didn't see and superseding part.
as parts place isn't necessarily the best place to order parts from whom can I get good quality parts from?

-also another crank bolt question. whats the best torque for the bolt. book is 130lbsperft(apx) I set mine to 150ftlbs(or lbs per ft). as a standard 1/2" torque wrench doesn't go higher than 150lbs per ft(or lbsft). it (the torque wrench will) will go higher, but im not ruining my good click type torque wrench.

[Dakotakid]

Main bearing caps to cylinder block:  48 ft. lbs. (planet Earth...northern hemisphere).

What book could you possibly be using? Please tell me you didn't really twist them this hard already.........

Or, are you talking about the pressure plate bolts? Part # N90206103 Autohausaz.com @ 74lbs.

I just realized.....I need to hit a 12-step meeting tonight.......

[Dakotakid]

Ooops. Just realized you mean the front sprocket bolt. Arizona should have these. Or try Partsgeek.com
Blue locktite (liberally) is your friend. I've never had one come loose. Inspect your sprocket very closely...esp. if it is the integrated key style. If there is any crack at all.....replace.

[air-cooled or diesel]

I just realized.....I need to hit a 12-step meeting tonight.......

maybe you read my post in smoke tales? lol, naaaww im real far from needing 12 steps maann, don't get the wrong idea, I know what im doing.
maybe you think im on something??

(planet Earth...northern hemisphere).

yea next line will clear everything up.(arrow down).

Ooops. Just realized you mean the front sprocket bolt. Arizona should have these. Or try Partsgeek.com
Blue locktite (liberally) is your friend. I've never had one come loose. Inspect your sprocket very closely...esp. if it is the integrated key style. If there is any crack at all.....replace.

yea this is what im talking about
I never had 1 come loose on me, one of my other cars did at 1 time, oh no that wasn't the bolt the sprocket or gear gave out, no worries its running again. and not too bad.
yea I don't even use blue locktite on it , not bad advice, but I use anti-seize and 150ftlbs now and re-check torque every year. book calls for 130ftlbs,
yea I got both feet on the ground, thanks for your reply,
but I could have sworn I heard the stock 6 point bolt was replaced. and torque value im looking for??

[vanbcguy]

6 point was definitely replaced with the 12 point. Will try and remember to check my Bentley for the torque spec later but I'm sure it's on here somewhere.

[Rabbit79]

It would help to know the engine code, but a lot of this all depends on what crankshaft you have in the engine. Earlier engines have a 22mm hub that the sprocket sits on and a separate woodruff key. Along about 82ish they switched to a 30mm hub and started using the sprocket with the integrated key. The earlier sprockets were held on by a 12mm 6-point bolt and stepped washer. I don't think (although I'm not 100% sure) they ever made a 12-point version of the 12mm bolt. The later sprockets were held on by a 14mm bolt and I think (although once again not totally sure) were all 12 point. So if you have the earlier style crankshaft I don't think the 12-point bolts will work.
Here's what's in my Bentley for torque specs:
(it only goes up to 84, keep in mind)
Engine code CR (M12 bolt)- 111 ft/lb
Engine code JK or CY (M14 bolt, lubricated)-148 ft/lb

[rs899]

I was just visiting this very bolt on my ME engine this weekend, while changing the timing belt.  It is a 12 point, 19mm headed bolt.  IIRC I got mine from someone on ebay for about $6-7 shipped. 

[air-cooled or diesel]

thanks for the info guys;
engine code is in thread/subject line, its a mk2(86) engine code ME
I have Bentley, so I have book torque spec,

The ahu 12 point bolt works in our 1.6 with the 6point 12mm bolt.

iirc the ahu bolt is a stretch bolt, so considering that i'll stick with what I got, I don't want to have to replace bolt, even though it may be only once in 20 years. I never had a problem with MY bolt, my dad has; then again he can be a putz, I can only fight so many battles, but god dam I have to get in it with him, and some times I lose, and pay a price; win or lose. (by the way Im right a lot of times.)
i'll continue to torque to 150 (max for my wrench) and check it every year. fortunately I never had a properly torqued bolt come out, and now thanks to the forum I have extra torque on it for insurance.
so for what im doing: 150ftlbs should be as good as I can do?

[CRSMP5]

my queston... how do you pln to hold the crank still to torque to 150? or to do a strech bolt??

want you to think of that...

[Rabbit79]

engine code is in thread/subject line, its a mk2(86) engine code ME

Sorry didn't notice that.
I would think 150 should be plenty tight enough.

my queston... how do you pln to hold the crank still to torque to 150? or to do a strech bolt??

want you to think of that...

I took about a 3 foot long piece of angle iron and drilled holes in it so I could bolt it into the holes for the fan belt pulley, when I tighten on the main bolt it swings down and stops against the floor.

[libbydiesel]

ME engine code was both mk1 and mk2 with solid lifters or hydraulic and at least a couple different crank bolt styles so it really doesn't tell anyone else anything without adding the year.

There isn't any fan belt or fan belt pulley on these engines.  The fan is electric.

[Dakotakid]

Unorthodox as it sounds, I have used pry bars on those flywheel lugs (through the inspection hole in the top of the trans) to hold the crank stationary while torquing the sprocket bolt. Never really liked it this way.....but done it. A little hard on the threads, but the plug still goes in.

Otherwise, I wait to torque down until axles are in and car resting on wheels. This sort of precludes cranking the engine up prior to full assembly. Helps to have a woman around to stand on the brakes while you do this. See....they come in handy sometimes......

[air-cooled or diesel]

hydraulic 1.6 me na motor.

[libbydiesel]

Regardless of what's on there, the 12pt TTY bolt used up through the AAZ and AHU is the correct replacement.  Tq to 66 ft-lbs plus 1/4 turn (or 1/2 turn depending on which Bentley you believe - 1/2 turn was earlier spec superseded to 1/4 turn).  NO LOCKTITE!  Lightly oiled.

[CRSMP5]

Unorthodox as it sounds, I have used pry bars on those flywheel lugs (through the inspection hole in the top of the trans) to hold the crank stationary while torquing the sprocket bolt. Never really liked it this way.....but done it. A little hard on the threads, but the plug still goes in.

Otherwise, I wait to torque down until axles are in and car resting on wheels. This sort of precludes cranking the engine up prior to full assembly. Helps to have a woman around to stand on the brakes while you do this. See....they come in handy sometimes......

flywheel is cast... if you happen to crack that lug (not see or hear it crack).. then it vibrates off you can get hole in tranny case...

see porsche sells a tool that replaces the starter to lock the crank.. sweet tool that IMO someone needs to duplicate for vw... yes i kno waudi 100/5000 5 bangers has a tool to lock its harmonic up via the front mount too.. so vw feels next method ok..

libby uses a long piece of angle iron... on the crank sprocket... i myself do not trust that method.. seen sprockets like you have or aaz has with the self maching syndrom break the little tooth off on removal before.. clean break in the cast.. sms ones will smooth out the casting as it works its self to destruction.. ive seen both.. so yes i cringe on this sublect..