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#60
by
vako
on 01 Nov, 2013 09:08
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#61
by
Gizmoman
on 02 Nov, 2013 22:23
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Removing material from the bearings sounds a bit scary but you seem to know what your doing. As you said, it was running strong till the HG blew. From the pics of the old compared to the new, you're already ahead of the game.
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#62
by
vako
on 03 Nov, 2013 08:05
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#63
by
vako
on 03 Nov, 2013 09:23
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in pics you can see damaged crank front seal holder . it was removed from my engine. it seems that it had timing belt pulley problem at some point of its life
now i have installed seal housing from new engine.
also i changed all alve stem seals and removed lot of burnt sludge from intake valves :| fourth cilynder valve was in the worst condition. valves middle cylinders were looking way better
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#64
by
libbydiesel
on 03 Nov, 2013 09:31
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You need a longer lever for tightening the crank bolt properly. I'd be concerned about both the somewhat loose/peened sprocket and the incorrect torque on the re-used single-use torque to yield bolt. Meh, it's your valves...
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#65
by
vako
on 03 Nov, 2013 10:16
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okey
i'll try to tighten the bolt up to its recomended torque. hope the side of the block does not break
i/m stopping the crank with wooden cube in the crankcase
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#66
by
theman53
on 03 Nov, 2013 10:21
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You need to replace all of the 1 time use bolts. That 12pt bolt on the crank pulley is a 1 time use.
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#67
by
vako
on 03 Nov, 2013 11:16
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i agree with you abut the thing that they should be replaced after tightening it for 1 time, but they should be replaced after it is torqued to 90nm + 90 degrees. when i bought that bolt, i torqued it to 90nm + 40-50 degrees. that means that it was not stretched to its limit a, and it will reach its maximum clamping force after torqueing 90nm + 45-50 degrees
(i think so....). so tomorrow i will torque it another 20-30 degrees
+ i m not using any lube for that bolt. . all the parts were well cleaned with petrol and then assembled.
this is my topic from 2010
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26361.0 i am using the bolt mentioned there
ther is no chance of buying new one, because i will have to wait minimum 3 weeks for that + i think that it will not be the issue. i am not usin 90 amp alternator or harmonic balancer. just light pulley from suzuki, 4pk belt, 50 amp alternator and power steering
that is the main reason why damaged crank nose lived fro 3 years with no issues
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#68
by
theman53
on 03 Nov, 2013 12:03
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I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.
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#69
by
Gizmoman
on 03 Nov, 2013 16:56
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I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.
What he said.
Besides, I think I read earlier in you post you weren't in a hurry (just a friendly reminder). Three weeks seems like a long time - till you toast the engine and have a pile of scrap.
You know the specific bits better that we do - entirely your call.
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#70
by
vako
on 04 Nov, 2013 11:08
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#71
by
vako
on 05 Nov, 2013 05:17
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today i set oll the correct ring gaps with metald file and sandpaper, so all oil rings have 0.25mm gap and compression rings have 0.20
)
then i assambled pistons and rods and instyalled them on the crank... after measuring piston protrusion the tallest cylinder was 0.70 mm and the shortes was 65 maybe... then i went to the shop to buy 1 notch head gasket. after checking all the shops where i usually buy parts it seems that only 3 notch victor reinz head gasket was available. as i have to assamble the engine as soon as possible (because i have midterm exams coming soon) i purchased 3 notch gasket. as i fugured out victor reinz gaskets do not vary too much. 1 notch seems to be 1.51, 2 notch 1.57 and 3 notch 1.63... elring gaskets are bit different, it starts from 1.45 and goes up to 1.65mm. 0.1 millimeter increasements... i think there will not be any problem with that as far as all the rings are new and compression will be perfect.
tomorrow i think that i will manage to assamble the short block and install it in the car
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#72
by
vako
on 05 Nov, 2013 10:35
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i'm interested if con rod bolts are officially reusable on aaz engines?
i torqued (30 nm + 60%, after double chechinkg it was a bit more than 50 newtons) the bolts today and then i remembered that one of the 2-nd compression rings may not be installed correctly.... + i do not remember whitch of them, so i want to pull out the pistons and just check the rings...
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#73
by
theman53
on 05 Nov, 2013 11:48
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No. Not much on the aaz internal fasteners are re usable. As unconcerned with the rest of your engine I am surprised you asked.
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#74
by
vako
on 05 Nov, 2013 13:13
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not willing to spend money on wind does not mean that i am not concerned
already spent plenty of time and money on this engine and do not want to spend even more if it is not absolutely nessecary. anyway i was not able to find any info about non reusable bolts in my manuals, and that was the reason i asked :| about headbolts and crank spocket bolt it is written in bold that they must be replaced (and i have done that). it is very good to follow the manual sometimes but according to the manual i had to scrap a healthy non cracked head (no allowed to grind, on the contrary to very good practice of resurfacing vw diesel heads) and engine block (because of deformed n2 and 4 main bearing caps). frankly speaking after retoquing the spocket bolt today with some long ratchet i am sure that nothing will ever happend with it and a'm not worried a bit
but piston ring thing really worries me, because there might be a chance of n2 compression ring be installed the wrong way for some particular reason....
after measuring the length of the bolts i will decide to use the bolts i have torqued today or the bolts from my old engine
will use the ones that are shorter
p.s. that is the trick that also can be used with head bolts to find out if they are stretched too much for reusing them
