Vako's AAZ rebuild

[vako]

http://youtu.be/GtVbcOpqPnU

video of my crank in the block 

[Gizmoman]

Removing material from the bearings sounds a bit scary but you seem to know what your doing. As you said, it was running strong till the HG blew. From the pics of the old compared to the new, you're already ahead of the game.

[vako]

yes the block is from my old engine and it was running with no issues till the head gasket problem.  even old bearinfgs were damaged in the sports were i had to remove material from new bearings.

so i think there will be no problem. i changed intermediate shaft bearing. only front one  that i have reisntalled from new engine, as it was in almost perfect condition with no shaft play. after installing it was a bit tight on my old block but after few seconts of working with 600 sandpaper i have IM shaf bearing play only of 0.05 mm

today i have installed front and rear seals, also double checled the main bolts at 65 newtons. as for the crank puley i have used a new pulley and an old bolts. that i have bought 3 years ago when i was first installing the negine.    then i have tightened it 90 newton + 30 degrees (it was a bit scary to do the whole 90 degre turn). even on damaged cran nose the pulley has not moved a bit. nowwith tdi pulley i have done the same. 90 newtons + 30-35 degrees (the marks on the pulley itself shop 90 degree section). and i was not able to go further.... torque wrench showed 200 newtons but i was unable to tightet it further

[vako]

in pics you can see damaged crank front seal holder . it was removed from my engine. it seems that it had timing belt pulley problem at some point of its life   now i have installed seal housing from new engine.

also i changed all alve stem seals and removed lot of burnt sludge from intake valves :| fourth cilynder valve was in the worst condition. valves middle cylinders were looking way better

[libbydiesel]

You need a longer lever for tightening the crank bolt properly.  I'd be concerned about both the somewhat loose/peened sprocket and the incorrect torque on the re-used single-use torque to yield bolt.  Meh, it's your valves...

[vako]

okey i'll try to tighten the bolt up to its recomended torque.  hope the side of the block does not break    i/m stopping the crank with wooden cube in the crankcase

[theman53]

You need to replace all of the 1 time use bolts. That 12pt bolt on the crank pulley is a 1 time use.

[vako]

i agree with you abut the thing that they should be replaced after tightening it for 1 time, but they should be replaced after it is torqued to 90nm + 90 degrees. when i bought that bolt, i  torqued it to 90nm + 40-50 degrees. that means that it was not stretched to its limit a, and it will reach its maximum clamping force after torqueing 90nm + 45-50 degrees (i think so....). so tomorrow i will torque it another 20-30 degrees + i m not using any lube for that bolt. . all the parts were well cleaned with petrol and then assembled.


this is my topic from 2010 
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26361.0 i am using the bolt  mentioned there
ther is no chance of buying new one, because i will have to wait minimum 3 weeks for that + i think that it will not be the issue. i am not usin 90 amp alternator or harmonic balancer. just light pulley from suzuki, 4pk belt, 50 amp alternator and power steering  that is the main reason why damaged crank nose lived fro 3 years with no issues

[theman53]

I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.

[Gizmoman]

I understand. It is just a 3.00 bolt and some time that could save your engine.

What he said.
Besides, I think I read earlier in you post you weren't in a hurry (just a friendly reminder). Three weeks seems like a long time - till you toast the engine and have a pile of scrap.
You know the specific bits better that we do - entirely your call.

[vako]

recieved rings and bolts in huge box shown in the first pic..... because of the size only shipping from uk was almost 30 dollars. if it was in smaller box it would be max 7-8 dollars :|

i'll start short block assembly tomorrow 

[vako]

today i set oll the correct ring gaps with metald file and sandpaper, so all oil rings have 0.25mm gap and compression rings have 0.20 )

then i assambled pistons and rods and instyalled them on the crank... after measuring piston protrusion the tallest cylinder was 0.70 mm and the shortes was 65 maybe...   then i went to the shop to buy 1 notch head gasket. after checking all the shops where i usually buy parts it seems that only 3 notch victor reinz head gasket was available. as i have to assamble the engine as soon as possible (because i have midterm exams coming soon) i purchased 3 notch gasket.    as i fugured out victor reinz gaskets do not vary too much. 1 notch seems to be 1.51, 2 notch 1.57 and 3 notch 1.63... elring gaskets are bit different, it starts from 1.45 and goes up to 1.65mm. 0.1 millimeter increasements... i think there will not be any problem with that as far as all the rings are new and compression will be perfect.

tomorrow i think that i will manage to assamble the short block and install it in the car

[vako]

i'm interested if con rod bolts are officially reusable on aaz engines?

i torqued (30 nm + 60%, after double chechinkg it was a bit more than 50 newtons) the bolts today and then i remembered that one of the 2-nd compression rings may not be installed correctly.... + i do not remember whitch of them, so i want to pull out the pistons and just check the rings...

[theman53]

No. Not much on the aaz internal fasteners are re usable. As unconcerned with the rest of your engine I am surprised you asked.

[vako]

not willing to spend money on wind does not mean that i am not concerned   already spent plenty of time and money on this engine and do not want to spend even more if it is not absolutely nessecary. anyway i was not able to find any info about non reusable bolts in my manuals, and that was the reason i asked :| about headbolts and crank spocket bolt it is written in bold that they must be replaced (and i have done that).  it is very good to follow the manual sometimes but according to the manual i had to scrap a healthy non cracked head (no allowed to grind, on the contrary to very good practice of resurfacing vw diesel heads) and engine block (because of deformed n2 and 4 main bearing caps).  frankly speaking after retoquing the spocket bolt today with some long ratchet i am sure that nothing will ever happend with it and a'm not worried a bit but piston ring thing really worries me, because there might be a chance of n2 compression ring be installed the wrong way for some particular reason....

after measuring the length of the bolts i will decide to use the bolts i have torqued today or the bolts from my old engine  will use the ones that are shorter         p.s. that is the trick that also can be used with head bolts to find out if they are stretched too much for reusing them