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Intercooler Piping
by
homerj1
on 27 Jun, 2013 16:34
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I've figure out what
not to use for turbo to intake piping.
So what can I use that is moderately cheap?
Will be pulling the piping and intercooler off my retired AHU, but I suspect that the piping may not be really usable with out some jigging.
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#1
by
745 turbogreasel
on 27 Jun, 2013 17:55
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Exhaust pipe is plenty robust, and easy to work with.
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#2
by
homerj1
on 27 Jun, 2013 18:04
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Exhaust pipe is plenty robust, and easy to work with.
I was thinking of using exhaust pipe, but I had concerns about rust forming on the id. of the exhaust pipe? Vs -using alum., plastic or stainless for piping?
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#3
by
theman53
on 27 Jun, 2013 18:36
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#4
by
745 turbogreasel
on 27 Jun, 2013 22:07
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Most diesels have enough oil in the intake it is unlikely for rust to show up.
Unless you decide to use old rusty pipe to start with, then you get what you deserve.
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#5
by
jaed_43725
on 21 Aug, 2013 07:58
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If you use exhaust piping just have it powder coated.
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#6
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Aug, 2013 23:15
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If rust forms on the ID of the pipe.. you have water in your engine.. get it checked out
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#7
by
burn_your_money
on 21 Aug, 2013 23:33
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It's pretty normal to have water inside your engine, and I don't just mean the stuff in the coolant
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#8
by
8v-of-fury
on 21 Aug, 2013 23:40
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In the path between filter and the head?
I know for sure exhaust side of things..
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#9
by
burn_your_money
on 22 Aug, 2013 00:21
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Water accumulates in your oil due to condensation. This is one of the main reasons why driving with a stuck open thermostat is a bad idea. Typically the oil gets up to temp and the water is boiled off and escapes through the crankcase vent (into the turbo, through the IC tubing then out the exhaust). Given just how oily our diesels are, and that most all of us own them because we drive them for more than 2 minutes at a time, I don't think rust would be an issue if the car doesn't sit for extended periods of time.
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#10
by
homerj1
on 22 Aug, 2013 12:19
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Thanks for all the help!
Although intercooler stuff will have to wait, as I still need to get one & best of all I just shelled out $250 plus for a starter for my 1.6td automatic..........ouchies......
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#11
by
theman53
on 22 Aug, 2013 20:40
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WOW. Better be plated with something good.
You better install a new starter bushing too as even a 250.00 unit will die if the old one is worn
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#12
by
Dakotakid
on 22 Aug, 2013 22:32
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As I recall, those don't utilize a bushing. It has been awhile.
Years ago (15?), I bought the only auto diesel starter that VW showed on it books in North America. And, I paid over $325 at THAT time with dollars that actually had some value. Those starters are in a very hot, vulnerable spot. Sure hope you still have a heat shield in place. Otherwise, that starter will not last long.
I think I saw one of these starters on ebay last week. The problem is....you never know if they are any good....and, they are usually not. They weigh about 40 lbs. Boat anchors.
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#13
by
8v-of-fury
on 22 Aug, 2013 22:34
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The auto starters are the same as many other auto starters. Built in bushings in their own nose cone.
If you can get one for cheap.. a starter/alt/generator place can likely rebuild them for under $100.
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#14
by
745 turbogreasel
on 23 Aug, 2013 04:50
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I took my 'weak' starter apart, cleaned and regreased the reduction gears, and had way better cranking speed.