AAZ project update

[Gizmoman]

Did you bleed to system as per the Bentley or use a 'Libby bong'?

I used the libby bong method but it was still up on the stands in the rear.

After CRS mentioned pocket of air, I removed this plug - nothing came out so I added some distilled water till it did and put the plug back in.


I've bled some air out at the radiator bleed twice now - it's getting better every time although only a tiny amount of air comes out.

[Gizmoman]

I just saw where you mentioned filling it.  I usually run it a bit during the fill.  Even still as CRS mentioned, it takes a time or two opening the radiator bleeder before all the air gets out.  It is pretty much self-bleeding, tho.  The coolant hose at the top of the radiator goes *to* the water pump and so even if there is some air in the system it will purge out the the expansion tank and then to the burp tank after a few heat cycles.  You know the system is completely bled when the expansion tank is always completely full and there is still coolant in the burp tank.   

Hmmm,
So the expansion tank should be completely full? The system is a bit new to me as before it never had the tank behind the licence plate - I found one and added it as well as replacing the old cruddy stock (diesel) tank (cap had no port for a hose).

Right now the tank is about 3/4 full.

[CRSMP5]

correct.. not full... why getting air out sux... think of how the cap on it sucks up fluid.. has to be full to suck in/out of the bottle by plate..

[Gizmoman]

OK,
Just read the Bentley
I need to fill the tank till it's full. I also need to do it with the engine running . Guess I was focused so intently on not letting it idle, I didn't want to run it that long while I filled it.

I'm off on business this coming week - leaving on Tuesday. If I get a chance to work on it tomorrow, I'll post an update. Otherwise I won't be back at it till next weekend.

Thanks for hanging in there with me guys - sorry for my silly mistakes.

[libbydiesel]

With the libby bong, the system will be 90% full when you have the level in the bong high enough that coolant is coming out of the radiator bleed.  Even still there will be air pockets if you don't run it and get the bubbles circulated out. 

Yup, once fully bled the expansion tank should be completely full of coolant.  When the engine heats so the pressure in the system passes the pop-off point of the expansion tank cap, any air in the top of the expansion tank is pushed out to the burp tank and exits.  When the system cools down, the cap allows coolant from the burp tank back to the expansion tank. 

For now, the best course to take is to look at the expansion tank each time the engine is cooled off completely and if there is air at the top of the tank then open it up and fill it full.  When the engine is hot, open the bleeder at the top of the radiator and let any air hiss out.  It helps if you park with the passenger side higher.  Regardless, don't stress about it.  If you didn't boil over on the initial run, then you're probably out of the woods and the system would completely self-bleed all on it's own even if you did nothing else except kept an eye on the level in the burp tank by the license plate. 

[bbob203]

I would not recommend using g12 in your water bong. 

[Gizmoman]

I would not recommend using g12 in your water bong. 

Hehe

Thanks, I'm fairly sure I didn't get it too hot. However, it could have gotten hotter than I think if there was air around the sender.
I used nothing  but distilled water, Pento-frost and a bottle of Water-wetter (as recommended by theman) for good measure. I have the same mix in the WAIC.

My air probe says the laminova cooler is cooling the air temp to 76 F (post core flow) - hard to believe. I got the turbo to boost to 7 psi on a short run around the block but I wasn't watching the air temp at that instant. It feels real good when it hits but when it's not boosting, it's pretty sluggish - seems more sluggish than it was. Again, I think my timing may be off.
I wonder if I could use the pulse signal from the "Tiny-Tach" to trigger a timing light?

My biggest concern is the dual ball bearings on the IM shaft (if you recall way back). Either it's an awesome mod, or I really screwed up big time. I wish I had drilled the oil port a bit smaller but I was afraid it might get plugged with sooty oil. I'm running at 20 PSI when fully warmed up and around 50 at 3K.

No oil leaks so far - amazing.

I'll try and shoot some video.

Again, big kudos to everyone here!

[Gizmoman]

I may be needing a replacement intake manifold for the AAZ.
It looks like this (except not cut in half)


I have a feeling that the laminova inter-cooler I built doesn't allow enough flow. The engine is quite sluggish (I can barely climb out of my driveway). Under boost is feels good but no boost is pretty bad.


I may need to just get one from Frozen Boost and be done with it.

If anyone wants to part with one, let me know. I'll be out of town this week but will be back on Friday afternoon.

Thanks,
Jim

[theman53]

Long runners help torque. It did in my build.

[8v-of-fury]

My biggest concern is the dual ball bearings on the IM shaft (if you recall way back). Either it's an awesome mod, or I really screwed up big time. I wish I had drilled the oil port a bit smaller but I was afraid it might get plugged with sooty oil. I'm running at 20 PSI when fully warmed up and around 50 at 3K.

What weight oil? Where are you taking your pressure reference from?

Volkswagen does not have an idle oil pressure spec, any oil pressure at the head at idle is enough.

[745 turbogreasel]

That is probably more about being able to deny  warranty claims more than anything else.

You pretty sure there is no fuel restriction

[CRSMP5]

as long as its over 18psi warm at 2000rpm.. your golden... when below that it wears pretty fast.. so 20psi at idle.. no issue.. but get it over 100c on oil temp.. see where it is.. most with worn/damaged im shaft bearings will see close or under 18psi at 2k...then you play with dino 15-40/20-50 and milk it longer.. 

[8v-of-fury]

My AHU has over 500k (km) on a the stock block, no rebuilds. I still can make like 17-20psi hot hot oil psi on a 0w40 full synth.

[RabbitJockey]

or over tighten your belt...


vw bottom ends seem to last for ever as long as you keep oil in them... its just the ring bores and im bearings that wear out haha.  and really the im bearing is just a diesel issue.

[CRSMP5]

how is it just a diesel essue??? got a 9a sittin here with wiped ones... and i do not think it had 200k miles on it....