Ill never give up. 83' with 1.5D - page 1 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

• Ill never give up. 83' with 1.5D by Snowyroads on 28 Apr, 2013 19:50
• Okay guys, Hello again!
  
  
  So its nice out and i've been dicking around with my car here and there through the winter.  See this if your unaware of my progress http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=32197.msg301059#msg301059
  
  
  Assume that i am starting with a brand new motor. Assembled by a 12 year old.  I have almost done everything over and over again. Probably timed the IP 5 or 6 times now.   
  
  The motor is finally firing up. I've drivin the car around the parking lot a couple times.  Only in first.
  
  Its as though the combustion of the fuel offers no power
  
  Engine timing is correct. IP is back at about .88mm.  New bosch duraterms.  K&N filter. New fuel filter. 
  
  (Only two variables left are super fresh fuel and a rebuilt IP)
  
  Hope my ishy  cell phone picture and video show you guys something. 
  
  The idle speed screw needs to be turned waayy in to keep the motor running. Its got a lovely humm to it. Id say the slowest it will stay alive with that little mod is about 1400 rpm.   
  
  
  
  "drunkie kyle says no more for tonight"  Ill get back to you'all later
  
  
• #1 by 8v-of-fury on 28 Apr, 2013 20:14
• Quote from: SnowyRoadsGuy

  Assume that i am starting with a brand new motor. Assembled by a 12 year old.  I have almost done everything over and over again. Probably timed the IP 5 or 6 times now. 

  
  Does this mean we are to assume it is wrongly put together? I am unsure lol.
  
  I have run these beasts on 7 year old fuel, and even then it ran ok and still did the average 0-60 at about 20-21 seconds for a bone stock engine.
  
  The combustion of your fuel likely offers no power because you have your timing set WAY BACK AT 0.88mm, and that is wayyy low. It was low for a zero mile engine, and extremely low for a (what I assume) to be an old high mileage engine. I would bump that timing to at least 0.95mm, and try again. It is sluggish because you are injecting the fuel so late that some of the explosion is happening too late in the cranks rotation.
  
  BTW, there are no videos or pictures lol.
  
  Not drunk Jeremy says, your sentences still make sense.. drrriinnnkkk more beer lol
• #2 by ORCoaster on 28 Apr, 2013 22:01
• I was thinking the same thing, this engine is retarded.  Bump that pump to the engine and see if the idle picks up and then back out the adjustment screw.  You may also need a bit more fuel by way of the other adjustment screw called the power screw.  See the stickies for pics of the pump. 
  
  If you can type better than CRSMP5 then you still need fluid in your glass.  He sets the standard here for most confusing text to read and make sense of.  But he has justification for that.  So we just give him slack.  Or more beer whichever improves performance.
  
• #3 by 745 turbogreasel on 28 Apr, 2013 22:17
• 50% of the time, low power = sucking air.
• #4 by Snowyroads on 29 Apr, 2013 15:32
• pfft sobriety, theres always tomorrow to quit drinking  
  
  So guys. I am damn near ready to send in my pump to have it re-sealed.  I am almost certain that it is the problem.  
  
  Here is the video.  I can also post another video of about 8 months ago with the pump timing 180 out..
  I'm still convinced its correct now.  The keyway in the IP pulley is definitely at 4 and not 10 but whatever.
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQsiF0FQL3I   (also, my tattoo is awesome, right?? chocolate milk cow)
  
  so i've been all over the board with IP timing.  Too advanced, back to .9 and so on.  Everything yields me the same results which is why im now convinced the pump is sucking in air.   Lots of cranking (even with injector lines cracked till fuel spilling). After several tries, a bit of gurgles.  And when it does fire, it needs to be at a pretty high rate of speed to keep it going.  I did drive the car like this about 10 miles last fall and DAMN that was scary.  
  
  
  See how far in i have to put the minimum fuel screw to keep it alive??  
  
  
  So the previous owner gave me another 1.5d pump with my car and I got a 1.6TD pump sitting around too but both have sat for years without ATF or some other saver fluid in them so im not sure if they're any better.
  
  I may be parking this car in june for up to a year when i move back out to seattle.  Unfortunately, a drunk night left me without a garage or my girlfriend for a couple years  
  
  
  
  This is the car last fall with pump timed 180 out.  Really easy to start, but absolutely no power and i couldn't get above 35mph. Still slightly better than now.. pushing about 8mph currently
  
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHqVE4TEcVo
  
  Thanks again guys
  
  
  EDIT: also sorry 8v.  I did have my pump at 1.15 like the yellow dot specs said but it still ran the exact same. The cold start lever does nothing now and it did nothing before.  Not like my 91 1.6na that upped the revvs a bit.  and that damned Ujoint 1/4" ratchet didn't help at all so every time i gotta re do the timing, the alt and bracket gotta come off. im getting real good at it 
• #5 by Toby on 29 Apr, 2013 19:06
• I suspect that you have stuck vanes in the supply pump. The easy way to test this is to add an electric lift pump and see if things stabilize. If you do not see bubbles coming down the once clear plastic supply pipe, it is not too likely that you are sucking air. If the supply pump is working you will see fuel leaking anywhere there is a problem. Except for the shaft seal. It is the only place that is not under positive pressure in a good pump. Make sure that you have the IN and OUT banjo bolts in the correct spots. I would try pulling the return line off the pump to see if you have any fuel coming out with the motor running. I suspect that you will not see any.
  
  If it is a supply pump issue, I suspect that you will need to have someone dis assemble the pump and clean out the muck. You might try changing the shaft seal, just in case. The seal can be done in the car.
  
  Oh, and call your sponsor!
• #6 by Toby on 29 Apr, 2013 19:20
• Also, If this motor has BRAND NEW rings you may be running on its pre break in blowby. That will make for all kinds of weird running. The idle will go way up as the blowby add extra fuel, so you turn the idle down and then the the motor rattles and dies as the blowby decrease with RPMs. Be sure to disconnect the vent hose when you first start a motor with a new set of rings. They can run away on you if you have a lot of initial blowby. Not a pretty sight. I have seen this happen up to 200 miles after initial start up.
• #7 by RabbitJockey on 30 Apr, 2013 08:41
• look at the throttle shaft position, wtf?
• #8 by R.O.R-2.0 on 30 Apr, 2013 12:49
• time it to 1mm, maybe a little higher..
  
  crank the fuel screw up
  
  maybe someone messed with the throttle arm location?
• #9 by 8v-of-fury on 30 Apr, 2013 15:07
• Quote from: RabbitJockey on 30 Apr, 2013 08:41

  look at the throttle shaft position, wtf?
  

  
  

  Quote from: R.O.R-2.0 on 30 Apr, 2013 12:49

  
  maybe someone messed with the throttle arm location?
  

  
  Didn't catch it before.. definitely!
• #10 by R.O.R-2.0 on 30 Apr, 2013 15:44
• HOLY SHIZZZZ!!!!!!
  
  yea, someone messed with this pump for sure..
  
  so, it needs the throttle arm re-set, then the max-fuel screw set, then the idle set once everything is dialed back in..
  
  
  
  i would just turn the max fuel screw all the way in, against the stop collar, then make your idle adjustments from there, AFTER you move your throttle arm ahead 2-3 splines..
• #11 by Toby on 05 May, 2013 01:07
• Before you mess with the pump check to make sure you have fuel coming out of the OUT banjo fitting with the engine running. If not, no amount of flow screw/throttle arm repositioning are going to help you. In fact they will likely make a bigger trap. If you do have fuel exiting the OUT fitting then the other stuff will probably get you going.
• #12 by Snowyroads on 30 Mar, 2014 19:41
• UPDATE!!!!    I swapped out the IP for a spare that the PO gave me with the car.
  
  
  Timed the engine to 1mm  and im off and running!    The diesel must be disgusting cause the white/grey smoke coming out the back is crazy!
  
  The smoke.. oh god its bad.  What are my options here? advance the timing? try the block heater first?  The coolant (straight water) has a bunch of black crap. Im still wondering if the head gasket is bad.  I cleaned out the overflow bottle but im sure some of the stuff is from the block.
  
  
  Well,  i have to adjust the shift linkage so i dont have to duck under the reverse gate to get into 1st.  And definitely bleed the brake lines again. 
  
  At least she fires up after 1 glow plug cycle!  that's a start
• #13 by TimpanogosSlim on 30 Mar, 2014 22:14
• i shouldn't have to say this but, don't run straight water. the black could be fe2o3 - black iron oxide, aka rust formed in an oxygen poor environment.
  
  Flush it and refill with 50:50 water and green stuff. or premixed green stuff. or, heck, purple, pink, red, dexcool if you wanna. just not straight water.
• #14 by Snowyroads on 31 Mar, 2014 20:08
• The water is not a long term thing.  Just had some lying around    But i know that a coolant mixture will be healthier for the system all together.
  
  So im beginning to wonder if my head gasket is indeed bad. Or that this new pump may be a "yellow dot" pump and would rather be advanced to 1.17mm.   The ignition timing is acting retarded if i may be so bold to say so.  Or my hg is bad..  There is soo much smoke and it reeks of unburnt diesel.   The diesel is old in the tank but the same smokey result happened out of the bottle i had.
  
  look at these results.  The 3rd party shot is at idle.  The other 2 in the car are with some pedal.  I was unable to drive long enough yesterday to get up to temp but i dont think it'd be that much better.
  
  
  
  
  
  ill post the phone video if i can figure out this photo bucket mobile stuffs