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Alternator tensioner idea.
by
jaed_43725
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:06
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#1
by
bbob203
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:19
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i made a bracket out of 1/4 in steel from lowes ill post a pic tomorrow
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#2
by
TylerDurden
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:19
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ja, search the board for "turnbuckle"... a few setups around, most delete the AC compressor.
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#3
by
bbob203
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:22
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ja, search the board for "turnbuckle"... a few setups around, most delete the AC compressor.
Ive thought about using a turnbuckle up top with a modfied ac setup to "help it out" buy running a smooth idler on the back of the belt the turnbuckle tension from the top requiring less or back on the belt and potentially removing need for idle at all.
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#4
by
TylerDurden
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:27
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I'm still scouring the web for a good overrunning v-belt pulley. The whole tensioner/belt-slack/crank-nose crap could be relieved a great deal.
Serpentine conversion is the full-meal-deal, but a durable clutched v-pulley could really help the value crowd.
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#5
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 26 Jan, 2013 18:31
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it is a BAD IDEA to tension a V-belt from the back side.. they are not designed to work like that.
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#6
by
bbob203
on 27 Jan, 2013 02:56
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it is a BAD IDEA to tension a V-belt from the back side.. they are not designed to work like that.
trust me I know. But its also a dumbass idea to tension how its done on mk2s with ac.
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#7
by
bbob203
on 27 Jan, 2013 02:58
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is there any pics floating around of what a 1.6 crank nose looks like with it modified for a tdi pulley?
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#8
by
TylerDurden
on 27 Jan, 2013 03:59
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Crazy andy:

Andrew's jig:

Fatmobile's jig:
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#9
by
bbob203
on 27 Jan, 2013 05:16
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so people are putting the flat spot on the opposite side of the oe key way?
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#10
by
CrazyAndy
on 27 Jan, 2013 06:21
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Only if the keyway on the crank hasn't worn out so bad as to have raised edges. Then you need to cut over the keyway, or at least turn down the raised edges. But yep, cutting opposite the keyway is the usual way if the damage is only mild or nonexistent.
And I didn't know folks had made jigs, that's very nice. I especially like fatmobiles jig since it's easier to clamp to a support.
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#11
by
bbob203
on 27 Jan, 2013 06:22
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Only if the keyway on the crank hasn't worn out so bad as to have raised edges. Then you need to cut over the keyway, or at least turn down the raised edges. But yep, cutting opposite the keyway is the usual way if the damage is only mild or nonexistent.
And I didn't know folks had made jigs, that's very nice. I especially like fatmobiles jig since it's easier to clamp to a support.
looks like his could be done on the vehicle no? Thats what i want to do.
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#12
by
TylerDurden
on 27 Jan, 2013 06:31
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AIUI, both can be used in-place.
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#13
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 27 Jan, 2013 18:50
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#14
by
scrounger
on 27 Jan, 2013 20:17
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So those flat saw teeth are cutters to cut a flat on the crank nose?
What is the basic problems with the design?
I lost two pivot bolts on the alternator shortly after I got it, but it isn't a stock alternator. Someone had cobbled a non W terminal design alternator on it. I have not have had any problem since I last used a hardened bolt for the fulcrum. I blamed the homemade tensioning arm. My Alternator bracket tends to flex.