Alternator tensioner idea.

[jaed_43725]

Has anyone come up with a turnbuckle setup for these. I have a 85 TD w/AC and had to put on a new alternator belt. What a PITA and stupid design. I remember on a 87 Mustang I had this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-30351/media/images/year/1987/make/ford/model/mustang. I am wanting to eliminate that stupid tensioner pulley thing and use the alternator as the tensioner. Any info on this is much appreciated. Thanks.

[bbob203]

i made a bracket out of 1/4 in steel from lowes ill post a pic tomorrow

[TylerDurden]

ja, search the board for "turnbuckle"... a few setups around, most delete the AC compressor.

[bbob203]

ja, search the board for "turnbuckle"... a few setups around, most delete the AC compressor.

Ive thought about using a turnbuckle up top with a modfied ac setup to "help it out" buy running a smooth idler on the back of the belt the turnbuckle tension from the top requiring less or back on the belt and potentially removing need for idle at all.

[TylerDurden]

I'm still scouring the web for a good overrunning v-belt pulley. The whole tensioner/belt-slack/crank-nose crap could be relieved a great deal.

Serpentine conversion is the full-meal-deal, but a durable clutched v-pulley could really help the value crowd.

[R.O.R-2.0]

it is a BAD IDEA to tension a V-belt from the back side.. they are not designed to work like that.

[bbob203]

it is a BAD IDEA to tension a V-belt from the back side.. they are not designed to work like that.

trust me I know. But its also a dumbass idea to tension how its done on mk2s with ac.

[bbob203]

is there any pics floating around of what a 1.6 crank nose looks like with it modified for a tdi pulley?

[TylerDurden]

Crazy andy:


Andrew's jig:


Fatmobile's jig:

[bbob203]

so people are putting the flat spot on the opposite side of the oe key way?

[CrazyAndy]

Only if the keyway on the crank hasn't worn out so bad as to have raised edges.  Then you need to cut over the keyway, or at least turn down the raised edges.  But yep, cutting opposite the keyway is the usual way if the damage is only mild or nonexistent.

And I didn't know folks had made jigs, that's very nice.  I especially like fatmobiles jig since it's easier to clamp to a support.

[bbob203]

Only if the keyway on the crank hasn't worn out so bad as to have raised edges.  Then you need to cut over the keyway, or at least turn down the raised edges.  But yep, cutting opposite the keyway is the usual way if the damage is only mild or nonexistent.

And I didn't know folks had made jigs, that's very nice.  I especially like fatmobiles jig since it's easier to clamp to a support.

looks like his could be done on the vehicle no? Thats what i want to do.

[TylerDurden]

AIUI, both can be used in-place.

[92EcoDiesel Jetta]

Has anyone come up with a turnbuckle setup for these. I have a 85 TD w/AC and had to put on a new alternator belt. What a PITA and stupid design. I remember on a 87 Mustang I had this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-30351/media/images/year/1987/make/ford/model/mustang. I am wanting to eliminate that stupid tensioner pulley thing and use the alternator as the tensioner. Any info on this is much appreciated. Thanks.

With ideas from themans and fatmobile, I made this setup and it's  been solid, no belt adjustment needed since the first adjustment and it's been a few week around 1500 miles driven.

http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=32520.15

[scrounger]

So those flat saw teeth are cutters to cut a flat on the crank nose?

What is the basic problems with the design?

I lost two pivot bolts on the alternator shortly after I got it,  but it isn't a stock alternator. Someone had cobbled a non W terminal design alternator on it. I have not have had any problem since I last used a hardened bolt for the fulcrum. I blamed the homemade tensioning arm. My Alternator bracket tends to flex.