how to check mounts.........
open hood...
sit arss in seat start up...
foot on brake.. let out on clutch in 1st gear... engine move lots.. feel the float you been feeling at light?
rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
I'll try this out tomorrow. Thanks!
i rebroke my custom set up on way to san fran.. i knew it was going to.. gotta redesign m y front set up.. but i did tow car all way hone no issue.. and when mine breaks it hits rad... so gental and life good..
how to check mounts.........
open hood...
sit arss in seat start up...
foot on brake.. let out on clutch in 1st gear... engine move lots.. feel the float you been feeling at light?
rear mounts only clunk in reverse... same test just in reverse
I'll try this out tomorrow. Thanks!
I tried your test but did not feel or heard the same slip or clunk. I didn't try very hard for fear of breaking something. I could feel the engine torqueing though.
What next? I may still rig up the borescope and look at the mounts and do your test again.
If the clutch didn't make the effect with the brake on, or you didn't notice large movements by the engine in the bay, I'd start looking at final-drive, suspension and brake components.
One test I'd try, is jacking up the front wheels and repeating the test (without the brakes applied).
better yet is on a stand, and while wheel is turning always have some one in the car to take out of gear or shut off if anything.then you are free and can look around for the problem.
210k is a lot, a clutch should last 300k, but 210k can mean changing it.
That is one cool tool. A bore scope. What diameter tubes can you go down. .223", .308", .50"? My internet is through a 6' USB cable, I wish I had more.
I did that and the engine didn't move much. Maybe I didn't rock it hard enough. Will try again tomorrow. I did replace the tranny mount with a Optimal brand hydraulic made in Germany supposedly (from German auto parts) last summer. I'll check the other mounts too. I have a USB borescope. If I can rig it up to the laptop (I can aim it at the mounts look for movement. The borescope cable is only 6 ft long and not long enough unless I go through the firewall. Not sure if it will still work if I add a USB extension cable.
motor mount
Definitely the rear trans mount.
Forgot to update this thread. Problem was the 2 bottom bolts (17 and 13 mm) on the front motor mount was missing! Maybe I didn't torque them down well enough when I did the AVX to ACN swap and they fell off eventually? Put in new bolts and problem fixed. Glad it wasn't the clutch!
Does going forward and applying torque lift the front of the engine up? If so, it explains the clunk when the engine drops (metal against metal). What causes the slip that I felt in the clutch before the clunk? Is it due to the lost forward motion when the front engine mount is lifted off the subframe?
Forgot to update this thread. Problem was the 2 bottom bolts (17 and 13 mm) on the front motor mount was missing! Maybe I didn't torque them down well enough when I did the AVX to ACN swap and they fell off eventually? Put in new bolts and problem fixed. Glad it wasn't the clutch!
Does going forward and applying torque lift the front of the engine up? If so, it explains the clunk when the engine drops (metal against metal). What causes the slip that I felt in the clutch before the clunk? Is it due to the lost forward motion when the front engine mount is lifted off the subframe?
Bingo.
I definitely could feel something like a "slip" with my broken front motor mount. I just replaced mine last weekend. In my case my engine was tilting backwards enough to hit my downpipe against the firewall. When I checked things out it was actually lifting the front of the engine at least 8". I had to jack the engine up about 4" to get the new proper mount in place as it was sitting way low with the broken one.