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#30 by ORCoaster on 12 Jan, 2013 10:16
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I have used this technique to fabricate other things of this nature where you need a tab to go into a hole to align or keep it steady. I have not tried it in this manner. Just seemed similar work/fix and you were needing something quick and easy and somewhat durable. It is the durability that eludes me. I don't thing it gets a lot of pressure or force once the proper tab is in the hole.
You will actually end up with more supporting tab or button than stock with doing it this way. Maybe as much as 4 times the width of the original? Ok, 3 times. Think like a sculpture, bring out the artist in yourself. Make it function and perhaps it will be beautious as well.
Good luck. DAS -
#31 by 8v-of-fury on 12 Jan, 2013 13:40
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Make it function and perhaps it will be beautimous as well.
In the words of Honey Boo-Boo herself.. lol err his self?
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#32 by ORCoaster on 12 Jan, 2013 16:26
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Who the heck is Honey Boo Boo? I am such a social basket case. Maybe if I didn't spend all the time I have on this forum I would be in the know. TV? not since about 1974 guys. Couldn't take it no more and I bet it hasn't improved much since.
I am guessing Reality Show that really isn't real at all. -
#33 by wadem on 12 Jan, 2013 16:36
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Hey guys, have decided to pin the crank as I believe that will probably be best for my situation. I managed to drill the sprocket today and that went well, the crank was a little trickier but I managed to get it done. How deep should i drill into the crank for the pins? Also what is the best kind of pin or dowel to use? Some of the threads suggest using drill bits while others say not a good idea as they are strong but too brittle, I went with a 5/32 bit size for the hole.
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#34 by theman53 on 13 Jan, 2013 05:34
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You are using a new crank sprocket right? I would use a dowel pin.
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#35 by R.O.R-2.0 on 13 Jan, 2013 15:05
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Thanks for the ideas! Orcoaster, i think i may give your suggestion a try. It seems to be the least amount of work and doable with the engine still in the car. I think that with a new bolt, and a built up sprocket it may last for awhile until I decide to either ditch the car or do a proper TDI crank fix.
Now that I know what the signs are, change in timing,engine sound, harmonic balancer wobble, I am hopeing that I can somehow visually mark the crank sprocket/bolt and check it and retorque every lets say 500 to 1000 kilometers. Possibly squeek another few klicks out of it.
Coaster, have you tried this technique or had success with it? I have a basic wire feed welder and I am a very BASIC welder, would this be adequate?
Just out of curiosity, if one were to choose the dowel/pin fix, how deep or how far can you or should you drill into the crank nose?
just do it right... please? -
#36 by 745 turbogreasel on 13 Jan, 2013 18:21
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I think the dowel pin is more a preventative measure than a repair.
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#37 by ORCoaster on 13 Jan, 2013 19:48
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Sounds like he is trying to do it right. He went with the pin not the tab build up idea I threw at him. What kind of softer rod could he use for the pin? Just some sort of steel rod? Maybe a tad bigger, 3/16 ths and take a flat off one side on a taper from front to back. That way it would go in and he could tap on it and drive in tight.
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#38 by TylerDurden on 13 Jan, 2013 23:55
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Hey guys, have decided to pin the crank as I believe that will probably be best for my situation. I managed to drill the sprocket today and that went well, the crank was a little trickier but I managed to get it done.
Pix, please... if you have the time. -
#39 by R.O.R-2.0 on 14 Jan, 2013 06:01
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I think the dowel pin is more a preventative measure than a repair.
x2
the dowel pins will be shot in no time..
look at the old air cooled bugs..
they had the flywheel pinned to the crank, and the fix was to get your crank drilled for 8 pins, rather than 4..
i think this is gonna be the same deal..
i would have done nothing besides the TDI crank nose mod... but thats me. -
#40 by theman53 on 14 Jan, 2013 06:17
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The Dowel fix has been done in the 16v world for a while. The link I had was from a Scirocco guy that had done it, they started with 1 and ended up 4 dowels and the stock tab like what he has that is worn down. Those held, and the dowels I am thinking of should be almost as tough as the crank. Any Unbrako or Holocrome or even import dowels should be perfect for what this will do. I wouldn't do it though for no other reason than if I needed another sprocket, I would have to remake it. The TDI one I could buy another and be done. I have heard that even the TDI sprocket isnt quite enough in some TDI builds and they are using dowels on top of it too.
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#41 by R.O.R-2.0 on 14 Jan, 2013 06:28
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The Dowel fix has been done in the 16v world for a while. The link I had was from a Scirocco guy that had done it, they started with 1 and ended up 4 dowels and the stock tab like what he has that is worn down. Those held, and the dowels I am thinking of should be almost as tough as the crank. Any Unbrako or Holocrome or even import dowels should be perfect for what this will do. I wouldn't do it though for no other reason than if I needed another sprocket, I would have to remake it. The TDI one I could buy another and be done. I have heard that even the TDI sprocket isnt quite enough in some TDI builds and they are using dowels on top of it too.
dowel pins in a TIGHT< FRESH setup would make sense..
pinning a setup thats already worn out, i would think that it will only be a matter of time before its loose again..
the injection pump takes ALOT of power in the upper RPMs.. -
#42 by TylerDurden on 14 Jan, 2013 07:01
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I'm thinking the bigger problem is the low rpms. The load is high but nearly constant at high rpm, but the shock loads of intermittent pulses at low rpm would put more shear stress on keys & pins, IMO. Case in point: the clutched alternator.
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#43 by wadem on 14 Jan, 2013 08:21
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It's always interesting to see what kind of discussion these topics will generate! Guys, I have researched this to the enth degree, were talking probably 10 hours logged on 50 different sites to establish the best course of action. Turns out like most things on the net, there are a million different opinions heading in different directions. Regarding the pin "fix", it sounds like there have been many successful REPAIRS! using the pin method on a worn gear/crank. Also, there have been many failures! I don't know the ratio, there are just too many variables in the equation to consider. Again this is the deal on MY car: I paid next to nothing for it, it owes me nothing, I am not nearly addicted ENOUGH, to rip the car apart spend another 500.00 or so just to put it back together and in 2 weeks loose the transmission or some other pricey component to end up right back where I am today. This is my 4th or 5th diesel "hobby" car. Mitsubishi,VW,Mercedes in the last 10 years, I am sure this one wont be my last. To the die hard purist enthusiast, I apologize in advance if my hack job "ghetto" repair has struck a nerve. To the others that are curious, risk management seekers, and experimental automotive hobbyists, let me be your official guinea pig on this one. I will keep everybody abreast of the situation, it may be a dismal failure instantly, or it may take months or even years to reveal the flaw. Either way the glow or the egg on my face will not emotionally scar me for life, ok maybe a day or two!
Ok moving on, here's the skinny, I have drilled the holes, was going to use the old gear but during my 9th hour of lost sleep decided against it, why would you? So will get a new one today and re drill. I visited an old machinist dude yesterday and he gave me some very bizarre nylon impregnated steel/ titanium, yes titanium, 5/32 rod, that's the size I drilled. Its military spec so dont ask! You can't cut this stuff with a cobalt band saw from the industrial revolution, but put it in a vice and it will bend with out shattering. Too hard, too soft, too pliable or flexible? Who knows, again (see above). So new gear, bolt, a dabble or 2 of JB weld just because, and hold onto your experimental automotive horses
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I really appreciate all the experience of this site, you guys have been very helpful, the fuse has been lit and wether it fails or succeeds I think we will all take a little away from this.......look up definition,of FORUM you will see what I mean
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Stay tuned
Cheers
Wade -
#44 by TylerDurden on 14 Jan, 2013 08:36
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Much appreciated, Wade.
Maybe I'm paranoid, but stuff like this makes me go look at my engine and ponder if I need to add each ounce of prevention.
This issue is probably endemic to the 1.6. There don't seem to be many options... take the crank to a shop, or pin it in the car. (Unless you live near Flagstaff.)