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#15
by
8v-of-fury
on 10 Jan, 2013 20:05
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..... I think Andrew Libby has in car fixes for this issue. Libbydiesel is his name on here, shoot him a PM.
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#16
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 11 Jan, 2013 00:10
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..... I think Andrew Libby has in car fixes for this issue. Libbydiesel is his name on here, shoot him a PM.
broach the crank, and install a TDI crank sprocket..
Andrew has a tool fixture made up to do the work in the car...
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#17
by
theman53
on 11 Jan, 2013 03:20
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I don't think he rents it out unless it is in his area. It could be copied and I think the one guy was doing that, but never finished.
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#18
by
wadem
on 11 Jan, 2013 07:38
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What about somehow securing the sprocket to the crank by some other means. Spot welding, or using some kind of drill and pin method. Even generous amount of JB weld? could you fill in the keyway with JB weld or some other type of poor mans weld, and then file/grind it out to the correct tolerance to fit the key in the sprocket? Or would all this just be too soft and not durable enough.........I realize its caveman tactics, but am just wanting to keep it running for a little while longer without huge expense or time.
Again I haven't torn it down yet so don't really know what I will be faced with, but all the evidence points towards a wrecked crank keyway!
Wade
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#19
by
TylerDurden
on 11 Jan, 2013 09:50
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I think some folks have pinned the sprocket. JB won't hold up.
(I would put some witness marks on the bolt, washer and sprocket to see what's moving... the sprocket likely is, but I like to validate.)
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#20
by
wadem
on 11 Jan, 2013 10:49
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Ya that's probably a good idea, I was sort of afraid to drive it as is because of the fear of God that some have thrown into me with regards to the sprocket or bolt failing completely. I have checked the bolt and its not loose, how much time do i have? Tough one. I can't see the key way in the sprocket letting go entirely. So as long as the bolt stays in I think the worst that can happen would be for it to just go out of time again.
Or maybe I'm just living in fantasy land?
?
Wade
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#21
by
libbydiesel
on 11 Jan, 2013 11:21
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I've seen the key sheer off completely. Yes, I have a broach/jig that lets me mod them in car. No, I don't rent it out. I'm in Flagstaff, AZ.
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#22
by
745 turbogreasel
on 11 Jan, 2013 12:56
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What about somehow securing the sprocket to the crank by some other means. Spot welding, or using some kind of drill and pin method. Even generous amount of JB weld? could you fill in the keyway with JB weld or some other type of poor mans weld, and then file/grind it out to the correct tolerance to fit the key in the sprocket? Or would all this just be too soft and not durable enough.........I realize its caveman tactics, but am just wanting to keep it running for a little while longer without huge expense or time.
I'd expect about a week.
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#23
by
wadem
on 11 Jan, 2013 16:00
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745 I think you we're generous with a week! Man, 5 days ago I checked that nut and it was so tight I couldn't budge it, today it came of like it was stuck in peanut butter
It's a lot worse than I thought, here are the pics...........your thoughts gents?
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#24
by
TylerDurden
on 11 Jan, 2013 16:05
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I'd call that a save.... a crank nose-job is better than a basket full of destroyed engine.
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#25
by
745 turbogreasel
on 11 Jan, 2013 16:11
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745 I think you we're generous with a week! Man, 5 days ago I checked that nut and it was so tight I couldn't budge it, today it came of like it was stuck in peanut butter
It's a lot worse than I thought, here are the pics...........your thoughts gents?
I was talking about if you welded or glued it.
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#26
by
ORCoaster
on 11 Jan, 2013 16:32
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I say you spray the nose of the crank with some lube, maybe PAM from the Kitchen, no not the cook either. Then you get a blob of clay from the kid down the street or the hobby store, which ever is closer. Then you put that on the back of the pulley and form it to the nose of the crank to get an impression. Carefully remove the pulley and use the clay impression as a model for some metal you bead up on the pulley with a welder. Does not have to be perfect just more secure than what you have going currently. Which is next to Nada but you now know that.
I can't see getting heat to the crank without damage to the seal so that is why I am going fab on the pulley route. You can't drill and pin this either as you don't have the engine out of the bay. That and the crank would likely walk a small bit right off anyway even if you did drill an access hole in the fender. Or drop the engine some off the engine mount on that side and the middle. Bet those pics were about all the room you had to slip a cell phone down there.
Amazing that you didn't blow this up already. But then you say you aren't driving it right?
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#27
by
theman53
on 11 Jan, 2013 16:47
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#28
by
wadem
on 12 Jan, 2013 08:07
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Thanks for the ideas! Orcoaster, i think i may give your suggestion a try. It seems to be the least amount of work and doable with the engine still in the car. I think that with a new bolt, and a built up sprocket it may last for awhile until I decide to either ditch the car or do a proper TDI crank fix.
Now that I know what the signs are, change in timing,engine sound, harmonic balancer wobble, I am hopeing that I can somehow visually mark the crank sprocket/bolt and check it and retorque every lets say 500 to 1000 kilometers. Possibly squeek another few klicks out of it.
Coaster, have you tried this technique or had success with it? I have a basic wire feed welder and I am a very BASIC welder, would this be adequate?
Just out of curiosity, if one were to choose the dowel/pin fix, how deep or how far can you or should you drill into the crank nose?
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#29
by
libbydiesel
on 12 Jan, 2013 08:31
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I could weld and machine that crank nose to the D-shape in the car, but it would be a lot of work (and the car would have to be in Flagstaff in nicer weather - it was -13°F at 8:00a.m. this morning...).
You can pull the cam (and glow plugs or injectors for easy spinning) and use the starter to spin the crank. I made a jig to hold my dremel tool against the flat pulley end of the block. It works a treat for truing up the crank nose.