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#30
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Jan, 2013 18:41
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How long have you been running this home-brew fuel?
I was extremely interested in it about 9 months ago.. but then found out the DI engines are affected way more by the materials in motor oil than their IDI brethren.
I know it is not the pump that will be affected, as they are identical.. but the pistons seem to have issues with coking rings, have you noticed hard starts or loss of compression?
Have you had anything apart to inspect for wear or coking?
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#31
by
wdkingery
on 14 Jan, 2013 18:56
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I was under the impression the DI dislikes the wmo because if injector coking, as the injector is in the hot spot. But frankly, my injectors de-coke if I run the pics out if the car.. In Town she gets to smoking (worse) until a good highway run.
I have not torn anything down other then pulling the injectors a few times to clean them. They get little upside down volcanoes built up around the tip of the injector that causes a poor spray pattern, which increases smoke, decreases fuel economy, and decreases power.
But they only coke up but so much, and I can still do 80 mph sometimes, and still get 33 mpg with the throttle all the way to the floor most of the time. And I even removed the wide open throttle stop screw entirely.
I only got 300 psi compression after my rebuild (so my crummy prothe compression tester says) but I don't have any hard starts or anything.
I'd say, after 10, 000 miles and @ least 200 gallons of various oils (atf and both diesel and gasser motor oil being the lions share) that the only thing to worry about is the pump. Good filtering is essential, as I learned at the start of this thread. Other than that, I haven't had any ill side effects until about a week ago.
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#32
by
8v-of-fury
on 14 Jan, 2013 19:35
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If I was going to do it, I'd be running primarily running W85. Or Black Diesel. A mixture of 85% Waste Motor Oil and 15% low grade gasoline.
I'd also be utilizing a centrifuge.
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#33
by
wdkingery
on 14 Jan, 2013 19:38
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That's almost exactly where I am now; I run 85 motor oil to 15 gasoline.. And that's it! Didn't get any diesel at all in the tank last time. And the centrifuge is a great idea, but I didn't have the $160
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#34
by
shorttimer
on 15 Jan, 2013 00:10
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Actually the centrifuge is that much, however you also have to have a motor & other odds n ends to make it all work, so you'll be looking at about $400+. Still a bargain & nothing beats a centrifuge to clean oils. I can't believe I ran semi clean oil, all those years, without having any problems.
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#35
by
8v-of-fury
on 15 Jan, 2013 08:28
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I've ran pure unfiltered used diesel oil before.. but that was on a 900,000 km 1.6D... Not about to run that through the M-TDI lol.
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#36
by
tyb525
on 15 Jan, 2013 15:23
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Sounds like W85 is 85% motor oil and 15% gasoline, but anything below 85% motor oil should use #2 diesel instead of gas.
After some reading it looks like a good method to use (besides centrifuge) is buy home water filters and put them in series like: 50, 50, 20, 10, 5, 1 micron. And then filter that through a really good fuel filter. The dirty oil is stored in a big tank like a fuel oil tank where it can settle, and after settling for awhile (a week or two?) the top half is pumped out into a smaller container like a big air compressor tank, that can be pressurized to somewhere around 40 psi. Then a regular gas pump handle is fitted and the fuel is pumped right into your tank.
I'm not sure when the gas or diesel gets introduced in the process, maybe when the oil is pumped into the smaller tank after filtering?
I'm more interested in trying this than WVO, because there isnt a problem with gelling or having to heat it up.
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#37
by
ORCoaster
on 15 Jan, 2013 15:31
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I think there is a difference in the type of filtering paper or cloth inside those home filters. Remember they are made to filter water and not a fuel base compound. If I find the caution link I will update later tonight. Somewhere I read it was not a good thing to do. Probably from the makers of the fuel filters. LOL
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#38
by
wdkingery
on 15 Jan, 2013 18:57
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I'm gonna pull it all down when it finally isn't worth fixing, or I graduate I am two years. Yall Will get to see what 30,000 miles of fuel abuse looks like in the end.
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#39
by
tyb525
on 16 Jan, 2013 22:31
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I think there is a difference in the type of filtering paper or cloth inside those home filters. Remember they are made to filter water and not a fuel base compound. If I find the caution link I will update later tonight. Somewhere I read it was not a good thing to do. Probably from the makers of the fuel filters. LOL
Well I thought the same thing too, but I clearly saw in his picture home water filters....I can't find the page at the moment..
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#40
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Jan, 2013 19:42
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When I think about the use of water filters to filter an oil base product the hairs on my neck get all fuzzy. Think about it. We have a filter in place that is specifically designed to stop the water and let the oil flow. Now we are going to allow that to go right on through now by using a water permeable filter, one that passes it. I know he is using waste motor oil and the risk for water in the oil is a lot less than the waste vegetable oil I like to run but it could be there.
The processor of the oil I use has both the water removal by heating it up and vacuuming it out. Then he runs that product through a commercial centrifuge. He uses as much of it as the rest of us. So he really does a good job on it. I have had 5 gallon cubies sit for a month before needing them and that oil never changes state. Always golden and no separation at the bottom or top.
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#41
by
tyb525
on 17 Jan, 2013 20:33
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Seems like a centrifuge would pay for itself over time, less filters to replace and it sounds like they have to replaced fairly often, at least the coarser filters.
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#42
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Jan, 2013 20:51
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It all depends on how well they pay attention to the initial filtering in the sock filters or what ever they use to get the product down to 10 microns clean. The guy I use has several staged filters and takes his down to 2 micron for some personal reason.