1986 Golf 1.6 N/A Crank No Start

[jhax]

Hello all, I am having an issue getting my car to start. Over the past month or so the problem has gotten consistently worse. When I bought the car and a long time after it would fire up, no problems. Within the past month it has taken longer to crank and finally fire. Today I got in my car to go to an interview and tried to start it. Glow plug relay clicked and I tried to tap the throttle as I had been for the past month, no luck. Shut it off turned key to ACC click crank no start. Progressively I have had to try two or three times before I could get it to fire but this time no avail. I checked voltage across the injectors and get an even 12V across the board. The glow plug fuse checked out too. I checked the fuel rail at both ends in the process of removing and inspecting the plugs and there is fuel on both ends as well as fuel at the tops of the injectors. I took #4 plug out and it seemed fine, little bit of white at the tip, but didnt seem bad. I then proceeded to take out the other plugs and found an issue. Plug #2 seemed fine as well but plugs #1 and #3 were soaked in oil.



Any input as to what else could be wrong?

Thank You,
Justin

[nwcali6]

  Ive taken a glow plug and direct wired it to see if it glows or not.  If you have voltage at them the most likely solution is a bad plug or two..or three...

[TylerDurden]

Ja, I use jumper cables on each GP. Watch yer fingers...

The oily ones are likely shot - good ones burn off the oil.

More info on the engine might be good: miles, previous work done, compression readings, etc.

[jhax]

Ja, I use jumper cables on each GP. Watch yer fingers...

The oily ones are likely shot - good ones burn off the oil.

More info on the engine might be good: miles, previous work done, compression readings, etc.

Thank You,
Miles: ~153k
previous work done: not sure, I have owned the car since July and have only changed the oil. It has been owned by 2 people since new, the maintenance book is in the dash compartment and it was regularly serviced by the previous owner
compression readings: not available, I need to get the proper tools.

Justin

[jhax]

Well after physically testing the plugs two do not work. Time to double check the relay.

[jhax]

New plugs in, problem solved. One more question, is it possible to manually adjust the fuel mixture? My car white smokes like crazy.

[TylerDurden]

If you have white smoke after the engine is up to temperature, you might need to advance the timing.

Before you start tweeking timing, I suggest a treatment with a can of Diesel Purge:
I put the DP in a clean jar and run clear lines to/from the the jar to IP in/out (plug the lines to/from the tank & filter). Run the engine high-idle until the DP is consumed.

[jhax]

by in/out you are referring to the line in coming from the filter to the pump and what is the out line you are referring to? the line going from the pump back to the filter?

[TylerDurden]

Yes. The jar of DP should act as the fuel tank (without a filter). The IP wil be circulating ~1pt/min and consuming a small amount that is injected into the engine.

When the jar is nearly empty, before the IP starts sucking in air, the lines can be replaced onto the filter and the remaining DP can be dumped into the tank or saved for the next cleaning.

[jhax]

will do, thank you

[R.O.R-2.0]

you need to replace your glow plugs..

BTW, your injectors dont have any power going to them.. well, they better not atleast..

if even ONE of your glow plugs is bad, it will make your engine VERY HARD to start..

usually, once one glow plug goes out, it takes the rest with it in short order..

check your compression once you get the plugs out..

[TylerDurden]

usually, once one glow plug goes out, it takes the rest with it in short order.

Please explain...

[scrounger]

Yes please. What would be the reason for that?
I have learned a technique, here I think, take out the injectors and watch the glow plugs work or not.

These glow plugs have a filament coiled up and can short out to the inside wall of the pencil. They still have low resistance but don't have the hot spot near the end where the injector sprays it. 

usually, once one glow plug goes out, it takes the rest with it in short order.

Please explain...

[jhax]

Okay guys and gals, another problem has arisen. My alternator is not charging my battery. Below is the scenario...

Lately the belt has been squealing as im pulling out of my complex. As soon as i get to higher speeds it stops.

A couple of mornings ago i let my roommate borrow my car. She calls me at 7:30am and tells me my car wont start. I tell her to jump it. She arrives home.

I try to start it again and as it cranks, the cranking slows down until it cranks no more. I get a jump from another roommate and go to class.

Try to start my car again as im leaving from home, same problem, get a jump.

Get it home and test out my battery voltage at idle. 11.45 and slowly decreasing. Order an alternator. And have my battery tested. Battery tests fine. Replace + battery cable.

New alternator comes in, installed, starts but battery voltage is at 12.5ish.

Starts on its own twice. Drive to an interview today. Get out of interview and car wont start, get it jumped.

Get it home and voltage at alternator (+ on post going to starter, - alternator body) 12V (should be 14), held throttle open at about 2k RPM and no voltage change AT ALTERNATOR.

The whole time my alternator light is working properly (stays on at idle, turns off when i start to drive).

Turn key to ACC position and test lead to voltage regulator (0.25V), and to blue Alternator light (0V)

Take out under dash tray and trace Voltage Regulator wire (Green/Blue) to pin 11 on relay 2 (Upshift Indicator Relay) connected firmly. Take out gauge bezel housing, blue alternator wire is in securely.

The only thing I have not replaced is my battery ground wire which does look rusty.

Is there anything besides the ground wire I could be missing.

Thank You,
Justin

[scrounger]

Mine quit charging when I had the dash instruments out. The Red Led is part of the circuit that causes the current to flow. Not sure if you have the light on before starting and goes out when it latches.