1986 Golf 1.6 N/A Crank No Start

[scrounger]

Hi Justin have you tried putting 12 v onto the blue wire to see if your alternator will kick on.

ROR Ah yeah if one opens <gets cold> it could be a sign that the rest might not have long to live.

Not sure what I put in my car. It seems like they  were for a non turbo or fast or slow.... something. I'll have to look around for some new ones as it has been two years and they are not all glowing equal brightness when I tested them. It seemed like that was all I had at the time and the car was DOA and I was recovering from Surgery,

I have a couple of Bosch 12 mm thread from my 85 mercedes are they about the same?

[jhax]

Scrounger, would it be safe to run one positive jumper cable lead to the battery and the other to the pos post on the battery? I do have some wire I could use should i use the wire instead?

[8v-of-fury]

one positive jumper cable lead to the battery and the other to the pos post on the battery?

eh?

[jhax]

Similar to running the negative battery cable from the alternator body to the negative battery terminal for that extra ground someone suggested on here.

[8v-of-fury]

Yes but why would you want to run a positive from the battery back to the positive on the battery? Re-read your post, it doesn't quite make full sense lol.

[jhax]

Touche salesman, sorry its been a long day. I mean a positive jumper cable lead from the + post on the battery and the other end to the alt excite wire on the alternator?

[8v-of-fury]

That is fine, long days are all to common. This would always excite the alt no? I do not know if this would have any adverse affects or not.

[jhax]

I do not know, but thinking about it. Isnt the existing alt excite wire already a switched 12V? You switch the key to the acc position, electricity flows from the battery to the alternator and thusly, the excite wire and on through to the diode...correct? Or is there something different about the actual switched 12V circuit that goes to th fuse box?

[jhax]

Okay, update. I took my inst cluster out and measured voltage at the YEL/RED wire coming out of the cluster (supposedly the other end of that LED). And I got 0.12V or so with the key in the ACC position. What does this tell you?

[scrounger]

It means that you have an open. I think it should have ~12 V on it. What is it in run?

I had taken my dash out and not properly plugged it in. The light didn't work
but the car didn't charge either

[scrounger]

I think there was a separate lead that was loose.

[TylerDurden]

My Bentley shows Y/R is the switched 12V from the switch via F21. The wire downstream from the indicator LED should be blue (leading to the D+ terminal on the Alt).

[jhax]

TylerDurden, the blue wire is the input, which read 0V. The Y/R wire is the output wire that goes from the blue wire to the LED and then from the LED to the upshift relay. So what youre saying is that the blue input wire TO the LED should read 12V when the key is in the ACC position?

[TylerDurden]

I would expect to see ~12V at the Y/R wire with the key in the ON position, engine not running (LED illuminated ). I would also expect to see ~1.5V at the BL wire, since the LED will pass a small voltage (provided the cluster is plugged-in) .

Once the Alternator kicks-in, it provides 14V at the D+ terminal and it keeps the current from flowing through the LED (no illumination).

[jhax]

alright well my plan for tomorrow is to take the car to o'riley and take out the alternator in the parking lot and have them bench test it. If it proves faulty. Get it replaced, if not i guess my only options are to first run a ground wire from the body of the alt to the negative battery post and if that doesnt work snip the end of the blue wire that goes to the dash and plug it into somewhere on the relay box that is 12V switched.