Oil flying everywhere! What's up with that?

[mtrans]

Incomplete burn of diesel or oil I am not sure they both have that bluish haze in the sun.  Yes it did shine once and I noticed the color then.  I am familiar with the blow into the intake at idle and this was way more than that. 

Only gray in mine,fix valve first I think.
What is "blow into the intake at idle"?

[Dakotakid]

Pull the vacuum pump and inspect the diaphragm.

I have little to absolutely no faith in your super high quality Harbor Freight comp. tester.

[theman53]

Was the head pressure tested? I would guess something going on there.

[ORCoaster]

Dakotakid, ah come on, that cool red plastic box with all the nifty fittings in there.  All in their separate lock down places.  Actually for the price of about 40 bucks it isn't that bad.  Schrader valves on all the adapters down low next to the injector level.  The quick couple makes it go on and off easily and the adapter fits real nice next to the heat shield.  The gauge itself is big enough that I don't need my glasses to read it and the pop off pressure release is nice to keep track of the reading as you write it down on the bench across the way. 

I thought about the vacuum pump as it has gone out on me before.  So I dug out the spare I picked up here last time I had to do the diaphragm replacement.  I had oil in all those one way valves.  My brakes are fine so I didn't think of it as a problem this time out.  Never hurts to swap one out as it is easy as pumpkin pie to do it. 

Still getting to the bottom of the low pressure reading in the 3rd cylinder is the real problem.  I fixed up that HF bunch of adapters and have a way to remove the injector, put in an adapter that I can air up with and then will pull the GP and insert the gauge less the Shrader valve in the bottom.  That should allow me to get the pressure up to 150 or so and then watch for bleed off. 

TH53- NO to pressure testing head.  Problem is recent and rebuild was months ago.  Still could be an issue however.  Thanks for the thought.  I think something finally wore out to the failure limit and once the engine got cold things got to the bad part of town with slop in the system where I didn't have that on the drive down. 

mtrans-  blow into the intake at idle is that little bit of air that seems to puff out in front of the air inlet.  It kind of feels like more of a vibration but if there is smoke in the air you can see that at idle some amount of air is actually coming out of the intake from one cylinder while going in to another.  Once you rev it up the phenomena goes away.  It might come from poor valve clearances, those that are to tight.  Opening before they should.

 

[theman53]

They all push out the intake until you rev them. I thought the way you said it was you put the head on and took it for a trip, not that you had it done a long time ago. I would guess at this point a blown HG, #3 pressurizing the oil.

[mtrans]

mtrans-  blow into the intake at idle is that little bit of air that seems to puff out in front of the air inlet.  It kind of feels like more of a vibration but if there is smoke in the air you can see that at idle some amount of air is actually coming out of the intake from one cylinder while going in to another.  Once you rev it up the phenomena goes away.  It might come from poor valve clearances, those that are to tight.  Opening before they should.

 

Thx,I also see on idle(more than I stop to park),but I think it`s only me,some how I think it come from inlet of air filter.Best

[R.O.R-2.0]

if you have 200psi in one hole, and its running away, i would be thinking that your rings might be broken..

[ORCoaster]

That is where I was at and may still be, I want to do the air in cylinder test and listen to where the air is coming out or moving to from the cylinder.  Might just need head bolts retorqued but they were down and cleaned for close to 1700 miles until last weekend.  I have been running it high in third on the steeper hills and the passing lanes.  So I will get to those tests later next week. 

Stuck in Portland this weekend.  Starting to move back to CB.

[R.O.R-2.0]

That is where I was at and may still be, I want to do the air in cylinder test and listen to where the air is coming out or moving to from the cylinder.  Might just need head bolts retorqued but they were down and cleaned for close to 1700 miles until last weekend.  I have been running it high in third on the steeper hills and the passing lanes.  So I will get to those tests later next week. 

Stuck in Portland this weekend.  Starting to move back to CB.

CB as in Cannon Beach?

[ORCoaster]

Coos Bay.

[air-cooled]

after a head gasket service, i start the engine with no manifolds, just to make sure that its worth it to finish putting it back together..

ive never had oil running out of my manifold bolt holes..

exhaust studs are way too low for that..

the intake holes MIGHT be high enough to be at oil level, but they should not be drilled thru the casting..

might i point out if you heat up esp exaust valves with out at least a down pipe when you shut off engine with out the ex valves esp will cool down Real quick and be detrimental.
and i dont mean a short down pipe, if you have a short one when it cools down so a cloth rag wont burn stuff a cloth rag in to prevent cold (at any temp) air from doing a number on your valves.
intakes will be affected too with an open manifold

[fatmobile]

 Lots of times with tired engines I can hear air moving past rings/valves when I crank it by hand.
 I rarely have the intake or exhaust off so I can feel/see where the air is going.

[ORCoaster]

Well after two days of work I am more frustrated than I care to be. 

I pulled the head after setting all the valve clearances to tolerance and putting one last twist on the head bolts for good measure.  Double checked the PSI in the third cylinder and still only 200 lbs.  Hence the head removed.

I checked and double checked the block and the head for that .004 tolerance with a straight edge and couldn't get it in anywhere.

So I tracked down some Permatex Hylomar and smeared it on both sides of the HG.  I tightened up the head. put the oil and coolant hoses back on and set the timing.

Set up the compression gauge and WOW.  A whopping 180 now.  And to make matters worse the #4 also has less than 200 in it now.  It was the strongest of the four at just over 500 when I started.

So I am bummed, tired and can't think so good right now.  I also broke one of the glow plugs apart so I will have to replace that out of the spare parts bin. 
Relying on you guys to throw some other ideas at me.  This head has been on for all of 2 months and was doing well until this last trip home. 

[745 turbogreasel]

pour some Kerosene in the ports, see if the valves hold it in?
lifter cup inspection.

[ORCoaster]

I did inspect all the seats as I had them ground when I rebuilt the head two months ago.  But good idea, like I said, frustration overroad common practical thinking at about 3:45 PM yesterday.  I did roll the engine as well to double check that I didn't have a bent rod for some odd reason.  There were swirl holes starting on the top of the piston as the guy that did the work inverted the Intake and Exhaust clearances on that cylinder and I had 40 mm on the intake instead of 20 mm for a short time.  It made a terrible sound when I first started it but found it right away and swapped in some other disks to make it right.  What would we do without a spare car worth of parts in the shed?

I thought of picking up a new HG and a set of rings for it when I am in Portland this week. 

Question on use of the Hylomar, does it only go on the metal to metal contact points around the cylinder or all over the gasket in a very thin layer?  I used it overall and now am questioning the wisdom of that.  Perhaps not such a great idea.  There were no obvious blow through marks showing on the gasket.  As I stated this problem just came up on my last 225 mile drive home and I caught it then.  Mostly because the sucker wouldn't start well after that and smoked like a semi when it did run.

Later DAS