-
#30
by
theman53
on 09 Dec, 2012 16:49
-
I coat the entire gasket in hylomar, not just pieces. I would guess the HG isn't holding. New bolts and HG wouldn't hurt, but I would love to know why you don't have evidence of it being blown. Rings are not a bad idea either if the compression is down, but you don't loose 200lbs in your best cylinder all at once if it is rings.
-
#31
by
ORCoaster
on 10 Dec, 2012 00:32
-
That was my thought exactly. I should SEE SOMETHING There! And I didn't. Didn't feel it either and wiped real gently with a cloth trying to find "evidence" for what went south on me. I am just going to replace the HG and see what comes of it. I have the 11 mm bolts and they are still in good working order.
This car was my weekly driver to and from the Portland area, 225 miles one way and at the first of the year I get to work local so getting it running suddenly became less of a crisis and more of a project car. I just lose the garage access at the first of the year as well so I need to get some satisfaction on the fix sooner than later.
Not sure if I can get the head pressure tested in town or not. Just getting the valve stems replaced was a great big hassle. Town is dying for such work. Used to be more shops around but lack of work has killed all but two I think.
-
#32
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Dec, 2012 23:51
-
Update for those that care: I finally got the car to run well enough to come home today. But I don't like the repair results. This car is blowing blue smoke out the tail pipe like, well a 32 year old car. I was able to prove to myself that the block and head were flat enough to go back together with a new 3 hole head gasket. At first I had my doubts as I tried to clean a reuse the old gasket and the cylinder pressure was el sucko on two cylinders after that. But the new one got me back up into the 300 range so I continued to put it back together and try to start it.
In priming the injector lines with the nuts cracked at the injectors I noticed that once again I had oil coming out of the second and fifth holes of the intake manifold. So somehow these are connected to the oil system in some manner. Holes tapped too deep? There was a good 2 teaspoons of oil that came out of the holes when I unscrewed the bolts from the holes after finally getting it to run right. I felt like such a noob, digging around for the little piece of rod that goes into the back of the IP to time it up. It took me over an hour to do that simple check. I ended up having to run out and get another piece of rod, brazing rod actually, in order to do it. Somewhere in my tool box is that 6 inches of magic. But by purchasing a 36 inch rod I now have extras.
So I get it to run but there is a ton of smoke coming out of the beast. I think I will just have to bite the biscuit on this engine and pull the rings off the one piston and see what is up. I was hoping to not have to do that. Oh, well, it wouldn't be a VW now would it if it was fixed right off the bat and ran for 100,000 more without incident.
I will run a compression test on it again in the morning to see how bad things are.
It does run different with the 2.5 inch exhaust on it now. Different sound and response at the foot. I just want it to stop smoking. Terrible habit you know.
DAS
-
#33
by
burn_your_money
on 28 Dec, 2012 08:16
-
Does it stop leaking oil when the bolts are installed?
-
#34
by
745 turbogreasel
on 28 Dec, 2012 17:52
-
I wonder if the head could have a cracked oil passage?
Do you have the plastic oil deflector thing in the valve cover?
-
#35
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Dec, 2012 21:37
-
B_Y_M I can screw in the bolts that normally hold the intake on and there is no flow. Not even under pressure of the engine with new oil cold. 90 psi at the head for a while anyway. Steady 40 at hot idle and coolant hot and flowing.
I did just screw in two bolts without the intake on to get the timing and such done. Intake goes on last for me. Crazy reach behind or now up from below as the header allows better sight of the bolts and I can get my arm in there if I break it in about three places. Tight with all the veg oil stuff there too.
745 I think it might be time to look into one of those splash guards as I do not have one and with the way this locomotive is puffing I know I will have plenty of oil in the intake shortly. I did make a check on the four holes in the bottom of the intake to verify they are open and draining. I am wondering now if they were loaded up with oil and I didn't notice it and that is why I have the Awful Haze of Blue following me around.
It is funny that the two screw holes on either end are the ones that allow oil to drain out of them if the bolts are used as plugs. The two holes either side of the intake manifold.
I didn't get to check compression today as it wouldn't stop raining and I didn't want to clutter my buds garage again as I cleaned it up nicely this morning when I went over for my truck and tools.
-
#36
by
shorttimer
on 24 Jan, 2013 02:46
-
Been following this thread. Was hoping by page 3 that you had discovered what the problem is. Keep us posted.
-
#37
by
ORCoaster
on 24 Jan, 2013 10:10
-
As a quick update I put a new 3 hole gasket on it, put it all back together and am driving it around town. I still have poor compression in the #3 cyl. so I ordered a set of rings but haven't had the chance to put them in. I found two glow plugs to be bad on other cylinders and that leads me to conclude that was the reason it was so hard to start in the first place. Basically one cylinder working proper.
As for the oil pressure it is still high so I will be checking the pump when I do the rings. When cold I can get 130 at the head until it warms up then drops to 90 then 70 after more long driving.
Anything else?
-
#38
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 25 Jan, 2013 20:58
-
someone has drilled the holes too deep in the head..
none of the bolt/stud holes on the back of the head should actually let oil out..
ive ran my engines with NO MANIFOLDS, quite a few times, and on quite a few different diesels, and they never leaked from the intake bolt holes..
that is the head that you got from another user on the forum, right?
if it were me, i would smear a good dose of teflon pipe dope on the threads of the bolt, install the intake manifold, and torque it to spec..
the teflon pipe dope will seal the bolts to the head, and it will act as anti-seize as well..
-
#39
by
ORCoaster
on 26 Jan, 2013 00:23
-
Trying to think here, did I get that head from a forum member? Yes, he has moved out of the diesel motors now that he sold it all to me in a couple of transactions. So it could be that the intake bolts were altered and I just didn't know it until I did as you do and ran it without the manifolds. Funny that only two leaked. I have since put the engine back together and do not have issues with the bolts leaking. But will consider the dope deal when I finally get around to the rings I need to do. Where can a guy buy a warm weekend to do the work?
thanks for the tip. DAS
-
#40
by
745 turbogreasel
on 26 Jan, 2013 03:55
-
will consider the dope deal
Do it
-
#41
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 27 Jan, 2013 20:50
-
will consider the dope deal
Do it
my dope tends to be a little pricey, sometimes
lol, for cereal tho, pipe thread sealer works wonders on bolts that thread into oil passages, bolts that thread into water jackets..
-
#42
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Jan, 2013 22:18
-
Interesting that you say this works well. I thought it would too so I used it on my WVO system and I found that it melts with the warmed veg oil. I have had to remove the fittings on just about every part of the system. The coolant lines into the FPHE's not so much of a problem but I thought the dope was not going to hold up there either.
Went to Teflon tape and haven't had as bad of a leakage/seepage issue. Perhaps the cooking oil has other magic melting properties I just don't know about. But like you say it works on other applications just fine.
You guys are terrible about twisting something someone says. You know that don't you! PIPE Dope, not Dope pipe.
-
#43
by
745 turbogreasel
on 28 Jan, 2013 02:30
-
I have a can of E-something dope with a green label that works well, it's rated for gas, diesel, oil, and ethanol....
Derpderpderp....EDIT;
Gasolia E-seal
Excellent resistance to gasoline, ethanol blended gasoline such as E10 and E85, petroleum solvents, kerosene diesel oil, BioDiesel propane, butane, LPG, cutting oils, ammonia, aliphatic solvents, acids and steam.
NOT for use on oxygen.
Temperature Range: -100ºF to 600ºF (-74ºC to 318ºC).
Pressure Range: Up to 10,000 psi when sealing liquids and up to 3,000 psi with gases.
-
#44
by
theman53
on 28 Jan, 2013 09:12
-
Gasoila is great stuff. I sell all there products. The hard set is funny, to get pipe undone with their hard set it usually ends up you cut or break the pipes. The soft seal I think works well for this type of automotive application. The E seal IIRC was developed for the Ethanol so it is good for about anything except food processes.