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Mk I passenger engine mount bracket $75
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Oct, 2012 08:15
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The old mount already taken out, ready to accept a new mount. bracket alone $75. I can install a new mount if you like, bracket + mount $120. plus shipping.
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#1
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Oct, 2012 12:06
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
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#2
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 Oct, 2012 16:31
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
Dude, what are you trying to say?
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#3
by
8v-of-fury
on 17 Oct, 2012 16:39
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Someone buy this from him so he can afford a properly sized BFH for this type of work.
Dude, what are you trying to say?
That hammer is too small
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#4
by
ORCoaster
on 17 Oct, 2012 17:42
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WAY SMALL And to top it off it is a Carpenters hammer no less. Look to buy a nice 2 lb ball peen one when you sell this up.
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#5
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 18 Oct, 2012 19:05
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WAY SMALL And to top it off it is a Carpenters hammer no less. Look to buy a nice 2 lb ball peen one when you sell this up.
That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
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#6
by
ORCoaster
on 18 Oct, 2012 20:39
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That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
I second the finesse part but with a larger hammer the small taps do more work and the whole thing goes in much faster. When dealing with this situation and I have heated the bracket and cooled the mount in the freezer overnight time matters. The idea is to get it done ASAP and a bigger ball peen hammer would do that for you. Saves the forearm as well.
Just my method. Do not use a copper bar, wonder what that is worth these days?, but use an old bearing race as noted by another in this thread.
DAS
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#7
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 Oct, 2012 08:03
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That hammer was plenty big to knock out the old mount, and should be sufficient to knock in the new mount. I am not going to hit the mount directly with the hammer. A copper bar will be between mount and hammer and I will take small taps to slowly drive it in. Finesse, not brute force, a BFG will not be needed. I'll let you know how it works out.
I second the finesse part but with a larger hammer the small taps do more work and the whole thing goes in much faster. When dealing with this situation and I have heated the bracket and cooled the mount in the freezer overnight time matters. The idea is to get it done ASAP and a bigger ball peen hammer would do that for you. Saves the forearm as well.
Just my method. Do not use a copper bar, wonder what that is worth these days?, but use an old bearing race as noted by another in this thread.
DAS
I don't have an old bearing race that big but do have a copper bar 1/4" thick 1" W 6" long (high power AC buss bars that I have laying around) so I don't mushroom the mount. Sometimes you just have to make do with what you have laying around. In any case I'll let you know how it works out.
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#8
by
ORCoaster
on 19 Oct, 2012 12:05
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You might be able to cut a piece of galvanized pipe off and use it instead. Just get the diameters to match for the most part and get it down to the point it is flush, pipe OD can be bigger than flange. It helps to distribute the force of the drive. Faster to tap side to side on then moving the bar around.
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#9
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 25 Oct, 2012 08:16
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My first attempt at installing the new mount into the bracket was unsuccessful. I found a bearing of a big enough size and supported the bracket with 2 cinder blocks, liberally greased both the mount and the bracket before trying to hammer the mount in. The problem I encountered was that I was not able to get the mount started straight due to the slippery grease. I ran out of time and had to stop. Next thing to try is to clean off the grease on the first 1/2" and see if I can get it started. If that doesn't work, I'll try it in a big vise.
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#10
by
ORCoaster
on 25 Oct, 2012 21:29
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I think you can pound on that arrangement till the cows come home and never make it work. I only got success by freezing the mount and heating the bracket with a propane torch to make it expand. No grease used.
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#11
by
aximiliei
on 25 Oct, 2012 22:45
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If i remember correctly, it has been a few years. When I had to change mine I took a spare front motor mount cup bracket (the one that attaches to the front cross member) for a mk1 and placed that and the mount lightly tapped into position into the side bracket into a vise (should be roughly the same diameter) and cranked my vise and it slid in pretty nice.
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#12
by
RustyCaddy
on 26 Oct, 2012 05:35
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If you take a grinding stone and shave just a little along the outer edge of the mount it help to center it and then drive it with a vise, ball joint compressor or a shop press.
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#13
by
CRSMP5
on 26 Oct, 2012 13:11
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try it in a big vise
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#14
by
ORCoaster
on 27 Oct, 2012 08:22
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My guess is that a big vice is not available. Try beveling the front edge with a hand file of grinder then by just a bit to get it started. 45 degree bevel.