barn find 81 caddy...

[vwroadkill]

hi Im new here..I have a couple of questions that your search doesnt cover..
I have a barn find so to speak, rabbit pick up... very clean limited rust.. mostly dents. it has not run in possibly two years.. I purchased a reman pump from vwdieselparts.it was leaking, that is what I discovered. waiting for it to show up.. and I have replaced fuel lines with the correct fuel lines. bought the timing gauge for the IP.I was wanting to know what is the best brand oil for the engine.. not wanting to just throw some oil in to top it off.. I am new to diesels. not unfamiliar just new.
any other inputs I can get for this would be great..

just curious.. does dragging it behind another car really help get it to run... I laughed when I read this..

[burn_your_money]

Pull starting the car can help a lot. It will spin the engine over faster and for a longer period then the starter ever could.

Check the timing belt before trying to crank the engine over. You can do serious damage to the valves even just at cranking speed if the belt breaks.

As long as the oil is C rated it doesn't really matter. A lot of people on here use Rotella (myself included for now)

Why was the truck parked?

[vwroadkill]

I dont have a clue as to why it was parked... the previous owner didnt say to much about the car
 I ran a compression test on all cylinders. the lowest I got was on #3 and it was 375..1, 2 , 4 were about 400..
any oil with a "c" rate .. sweet.. rotula it is..
new cam belt will be installed with the installation of the IP... it is leaking out the back side.. by the glow plugs..
previous owner gave me extra parts and a pump.. numbers didnt match.. plus what I read about pumps on here. I just went with a proper reman to eliminate aggravition
 I will give this dragging behind the truck a shot if the thing doesnt start on the first series of try's..
thanks for the info.

[ORCoaster]

I will have to ask if you have read up on the refilling of an IP and the cracking of the nuts at the injector lines to verify fuel.  These two steps will save a lot of cranking.  Pulling it will too.  Your choice to have it stationary when it gets going or mobile.  I prefer the in place method where I can grab the throttle arm to give it a bit and to see some of the other things going on.  Air in fuel lines, loose hoses or coolant going places it should not.  I don't have a camera under the hood on my car so pulling it would have to be a last resort.  Battery charger with boost has do well so far. 

[vwroadkill]

refilling of the IP? no. how? I was going to take a jug and pressurize it to push fuel into the system. cracking the lines loose at the injector.. will do. I dont have a booster/ charger just a 10 amp 2 amp charger.. I will see what I can snag at work.
never worked on a diesel before.. mostly 1.8 / 1.8ts and vr6's ...
one more question.. two cables going to pump one on top is throttle.. what is the second for..cold start..Choke?.. line is frozen.. will have fixed by tomorrow.. its removed and being bathed in atf.. hope it works
thanks for the help. I am excited to get this thing running .. waiting on the brown truck to roll up, sucks.lol

[ORCoaster]

Refill IP by pulling fuel through it.  The line that goes off the top of the IP generally has OUT stamped on it.  This is the OUT bolt you may have read about here.  Fuel going out that line is returning to the fuel tank.  But in order to get the IP full of fuel and out of air you can put a vac pump on that fitting and suck out the air.  I actually do it with a big syringe and a piece of clear fuel line.  I have to do it many times as the volume is only a couple of ounces that I can pull at at a time.  It is one of those plastic ones meant for mixing 2 cycle oil.  Once I have a solid amount of fuel coming out the fitting I put the return line on for the tank and then try cranking with the injector nuts loose.  It only takes a bit before you see some fuel spraying out one or two of them.  I tighten those, give it another try on cranking to finish the others and then tighten them. 

The second cable that you mention is the one going behind the pump and is connected to the knob on the dash right?  That is indeed the cold start knob.  It is sort of an advance for the engine timing more so than anything else.  Some think of it as a choke but that is incorrect as it does not enhance the amount of fuel going into the engine.  It advances the time at which it gets injected.  The cable should pull real easy with the engine running and sometimes when it is not.  It depends on where the pump is in the cycle of rotation.  If you are at the point where the cam inside the pump is pushing on the roller bearings it may be difficult to pull the lever.  I generally pull it out just before I shut the car off at night so it is ready in the cold of morning.  Others, with more arms than I can manage to be pulling the lever and turning the key at the same time.  Figure out how to do that with a cup of coffee in the left hand and I'll give you a dollar. 

If the pump is running with retarded timing then pulling the lever helps it to start.  You have timing tools so you should be able to set it up where that might not be necessary.  You compression is good on most cylinders so I doubt you will have an issue getting this to fire up.  keep us posted.  We love it when one that has been sitting for years gets going again. 

[vwroadkill]

well after reading this.. I will be just tickled to give yall some good news on my project. but after reading the tracking number from UPS.. I will be doing this job on friday instead of tomorrow. Dam I hate lazy people..
any who..spent most of the day cleaning and and replacing parts as needed.. thank goodness for wrecked and worn out cars.. found a solid rear window on a pick up today..25 dollars "score" also found and scored a complete set of windows 10 dollars..
was looking at a cabby... same dash hmmmm...
just for those who need it.. I have some fuel lines and injectors out of an 84 jetta as well as a/c parts .

[hillfolk'r]

ive made an oil pump priming tool from a metal dowel with a slot in the end.then i can chuck it in a drill and spin it for a minute..when they sit that long its recommended as if its a fresh rebuild..easy to build one too...i can probably get a pic for ya..you could pull the return banjo and fill the ip with a syringe...

[burn_your_money]

You can use a 12mm socket as well to spin the oil pump. Maybe 1/2" or 13mm, whatever fits best.

[vwroadkill]

OK now Im confused, I installed the whole dam thing.. and now the timing gauge wont work. acts like it isnt going deep enough, insert joke here,... did the insert . move crankshaft around reset to zero. and nothing moves on the gauge. ugh.
fastest I have changed a t-belt. 2 hours start to 6 pack finish.. am I missing something.. is there another bushing on the timing hole that I dont see.. is there a prescribed length to the guage.. I bought the timing gauge from partsplaceinc..
looking for info.. want to drive it tomorrow
thanks
Dan
and thanks for the input on spinning up the oil pump..I was going to use an old dizzy shaft.. but this will help again thanks

[hillfolk'r]

hmmm....it is possible to be 180 out if i remember right...but  for startters make sure crank is at tdc,and the cam lock fits..see if u can get the pump lock in.....install the dial indicator and preload it about 2.5 turns on the dial.....unlock the whole mess and rotate it backwards till it stops moving...then" zero" the dial...
then rotate it in DOR (direction of rotation)..as u approach tdc(watch the flywheel mark) the indicator should start moving....when the crank is at tdc the indicator should say something..like. 80,.90...
btw when u r at tdc,the pump and cam lock should fit...
and for belt tension u should be able to twist it 45 degrees between the cam and pump gear.too tight u will know,itll whine like a roots blower...
someone correct me if im wrong.there is 2 holes in the pump gear and its possible to be 180 out....if i remember right u can pull the pump gear nut and see the keyway slot..it should be near 12 or 2 oclock for pump tdc#1...
if its at 6 oclock or pointing down u r 180 out on the pump...

oh also note on the ip just behind the fuel inlet theres a raised notch...then note the" v" notch on the pump bracket..for a quick chech they should be close to lined up......
pls correct me guys if im wrong..i think i got it covered pretty good tho

[hillfolk'r]

yea if i remember right,mines a guage from parts place also....central tools dial indicator in a blueplastic box i believe...i got the cam lock from schley,and a pump pin from metalnerd...
i could tell u how to make some hillfolk style locks but lets get er runnin first

[vwroadkill]

The pump is pinned. Tdc . Is correct rechecked three times.
Check key for 12-2 position. Installed guage in two pumps. No worky.
Anything else

[hillfolk'r]

when you got it at tdc,and install the guage and preload it 2 turns on the indicator,then remove the pins,and rotate it backwards,the indicator doesnt move?it should" lose" its preload when you do...
engine normal rotation is" with the road wheels when driving"

the guage adapter should thread into the ccenterof the pump and go hand tight with no slop.
my guage adapter has the pin built in so to speak.other adapters have nothing,and the pin threads into the guage and sticks out the end of the adapter
that, last comment was me thinking out loud

[vwroadkill]

ok... after attemping three time.. I can't get any preload on the gauge. I mean nutn.. like it is not in the timing hole far enough... the adapter for the gauge has a nut on the end of it, the piece you install and the gauge attaches to the end of it, if I just install the adapter and then slide the gauge in with out the nut on the end, i can get a reading. its like the nut is in the way.
well anyways I am still trying... I got the timing dead on. engine rotates good. the pulley on the pump has the woodruff key at the 1 o clock position.  I am thinking of giving it a whirl.