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#45
by
RabbitJockey
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:13
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wd 40 is alot thinner i'd atleast try motor oil, but gear oil will be best. regardless with numbers like that you're gonna have to pull the head and see whats going on.
okay i have some gear oil how much would you say i should put in there? like a tiny bit or a good amount? ha and yeah i figured im gonna have to anyway
now with pulling the head can i just take off the valve cover and then take off the head bolts and pull the head with the intake and exhaust manifolds still on i just dont want to have to take all that stuff off such a PITA lol i could just use my engine hoist and just pull the head up keep everything attached? i dont see why that shouldnt be a problem right?
yeah i pull the heads with the manifolds still on, its pretty easy. you don't want to fill the cylinders with oil or it can hydro lock the engine and bend the rods, u just want enough to get between the piston and the bore and create a seal.
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#46
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:15
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Just be sure to have that head and manifolds on something solid, like a chain. Not that nylon rope trick used by another here on the forum that will remain nameless for a while.
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#47
by
vw-tim
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:38
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okay so i filled up each cylinder with about this much..
idk if it was to much but its done now lol and here are my readings
#1-420
#2-160
#3-140
#4-400
so this means my rings are bad?
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#48
by
vw-tim
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:39
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Just be sure to have that head and manifolds on something solid, like a chain. Not that nylon rope trick used by another here on the forum that will remain nameless for a while.
yeah id def use a chain pulling it off but sense i might need to do rings now how hard is that? should i just pull the whole motor again... ha
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#49
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 21:57
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Perhaps not. There may just be a problem with the gasket between the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. But if you are going to do the rings then by all means get the head and stuff out of the way. You will need the room.
Was the gasket just redone?
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#50
by
theman53
on 28 Jun, 2012 22:01
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Is your coolant bottle presurizing? I think our engines with a piston in the bore with no rings would make more than 15psi, I think something is up there. Did this ever run? I would almost think that there is something between the gasket and block to create that much loss. This is strange sir.
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#51
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 22:25
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Kind of what i was thinking. A bump of something that didn't get out of the way. Hopefully the head doesn't suffer. Might get by with a good cleaning and reinstall all parts. Check compression prior to manifold bolt on and see if problem is solved.
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#52
by
vw-tim
on 28 Jun, 2012 23:12
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okay well heres the deal i bought the car for $500 the engine that was in it the block had a broken rod the go threw in 2 other spare 1.5L diesels one complete and the other was just a tranny and block so what i did was i took the head that was on the car orignially got all the valves and everything re done on that and i took of the blocks that i cranked and it was free from binds and what not and i didnt do anything to the block except put on a new clutch kit and oil pan i used the orignal 5 speed tranny that was in the car and bolted it on and got the head back and i bought i new head gasket and new head bolts and put those on when i was putting them on i did notice some of the head bolts were having trouble like going in.... i probably should of thought this wasnt right and stopped but i kept going and i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.. do you think maybe because they were hanging up they might of been torqued but it was not accurate reason for not having the compression?
if worse comes to worse can i just pull the head and do the rings with out having to take off the block and tranny or would it be much easyer to just pull the whole engine ?
i guess from where i look at it now should i just pull the head ill buy new head gasket and new head bolts redo it and then test the compression see if it changes? i do belive the valves need to be adjusted as well... thoughts on this thank you guys!
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#53
by
vw-tim
on 28 Jun, 2012 23:24
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Kind of what i was thinking. A bump of something that didn't get out of the way. Hopefully the head doesn't suffer. Might get by with a good cleaning and reinstall all parts. Check compression prior to manifold bolt on and see if problem is solved.
do you think i could get away with just removing the head and re using the head bolts and gasket? and maybe just cleaning the block and like where the head bolts thread down into? and just get everything back on and then re do the compression test and see if its better?
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#54
by
vw-tim
on 28 Jun, 2012 23:33
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#55
by
ORCoaster
on 28 Jun, 2012 23:43
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Ah the rest of the story now eh?
Ok sounds like you didn't clean out the head bolt holes well enough before you put things together. They should be aired out with a compressor air hose and have a bolt run down and back out so that it comes out clean. It is called chasing. Don't need to tighten down. Lots of junk gets in them even if you are careful.
So being the cheap and optimist type I say lift the head. Inspect and clean and reuse what you have. If the head gasket it Fubar then by all means get a new one. If you have old head bolts hanging around cut the heads off four of them and use them like alignment tools for the next gasket.
Bolts in the corners, gasket on, head down then pull a cut off bolt and replace with the real deal. Check that head gasket coming out for some sort of mashed edge or gob of something stuck onto it. Then get a light and a mirror and see what that head looks like. Is there some part embedded in the head that would have prevented the sucker getting on there flat in the first place?
Can't keep up with the questions Tim.
Adjusting the valves is an exercise in math. You have a shim of x thickness. you put them all in and after the cam is all tight you measure the distance between the cam and the follower. If withing tolerance for cold engine great otherwise you have to note the amount of greater than spec or less than spec you have and subtract or add that amount to get to the correct distance between the cam and follower after you replace the shim. that is why there are so many choices. It depends on valve length, wear, valve seat and a bunch I am forgetting.
You might be able to move some around to keep from buying any new ones since you have a bunch to choose from.
Feel like I am writing the Bentley manual all over here. Do you have one? Library may.
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#56
by
vw-tim
on 29 Jun, 2012 01:03
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Ah the rest of the story now eh?
Ok sounds like you didn't clean out the head bolt holes well enough before you put things together. They should be aired out with a compressor air hose and have a bolt run down and back out so that it comes out clean. It is called chasing. Don't need to tighten down. Lots of junk gets in them even if you are careful.
So being the cheap and optimist type I say lift the head. Inspect and clean and reuse what you have. If the head gasket it Fubar then by all means get a new one. If you have old head bolts hanging around cut the heads off four of them and use them like alignment tools for the next gasket.
Bolts in the corners, gasket on, head down then pull a cut off bolt and replace with the real deal. Check that head gasket coming out for some sort of mashed edge or gob of something stuck onto it. Then get a light and a mirror and see what that head looks like. Is there some part embedded in the head that would have prevented the sucker getting on there flat in the first place?
Can't keep up with the questions Tim.
Adjusting the valves is an exercise in math. You have a shim of x thickness. you put them all in and after the cam is all tight you measure the distance between the cam and the follower. If withing tolerance for cold engine great otherwise you have to note the amount of greater than spec or less than spec you have and subtract or add that amount to get to the correct distance between the cam and follower after you replace the shim. that is why there are so many choices. It depends on valve length, wear, valve seat and a bunch I am forgetting.
You might be able to move some around to keep from buying any new ones since you have a bunch to choose from.
Feel like I am writing the Bentley manual all over here. Do you have one? Library may.
haha sorry for so many of the questions man its just easyer to ask on here then read through the bentley i like getting sorta the extra knowledge i can add in from what bentley says. i will read about valve adjustment and stuff and ill pull the head tomorrow and check out everything
really appreciate the help man!
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#57
by
745 turbogreasel
on 29 Jun, 2012 01:19
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i torqued them all to 36 or whatever the book says.
36 ft/lb, and how many angle tightenings?
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#58
by
ORCoaster
on 29 Jun, 2012 10:00
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Ahhh Moment. Maybe none thus head isn't really down at all. But with the trouble he had getting them to 36 perhaps removing and cleaning and trying again with the extra 90 degree turn will be the ticket to success here. I wouldn't just crank them down based on his description of the install.
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#59
by
vw-tim
on 29 Jun, 2012 13:00
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Ahhh Moment. Maybe none thus head isn't really down at all. But with the trouble he had getting them to 36 perhaps removing and cleaning and trying again with the extra 90 degree turn will be the ticket to success here. I wouldn't just crank them down based on his description of the install.
yeah im gonna re do it all and then hopefully that will give me my compression
ha this has been my first real big like working on engine doing head gaskets and all that good stuff so im learning a ton! anyway hopefully ill get the head off and clean everything up!