Comp tester
If you're near Santa Cruz, I have one.
Timing
Imo it's not
that sensitive from a 'will it start' perspective.
no smoke = no fuel. stuck vanes in the transfer pump or a varnished in place control collar?
I'd tighten at least 2 bolts, and leave a wobble extension and whatever socket on the PITA one that's pinched behind the pump
yeah ill look into the starter switch and all the wiring in a bit when i do turn the key to START i do hear the relays click the 52 relay big black box on the fuse box and then this other bar looking box... ill snap some pics of it later today
click only means the control side of the relay is working, the switched side must be checked as well
stop solenoid gets power, and are usually problem free, but I'd verify that something in it moves as well.
also maybe clean your out bolts on both pumps, it will give you a snapshot of how much crap is flying around in there (should be ~none). ther is a screen and a tiny hole inside the bolt. Said bolt incidentally must not be swapped with the in bolt, out is labeled and will restrict the heck out of your fuel supply if on the wrong side, have a look.
Any bubbles or flow observed while/after cranking?
Running from a fuel can eliminates much of the supply side as a source of problems, though if the vac pump worked, it's probably OK.
return to a jug will bypass blockage on that side, and give you an idea how much fuel is moving through. A quart will take over a minute to fill at idle
Glow Test is optimal, I assume you also checked for power at the bus bar?
i might try the drag behind the truck but i think my battery is giving it enough i also have this charger hooked up to it for engine starts i hook that to the battery and hit the engine start switch on the charger so i think it provided more then enough to get this cranking properly
When you have a cascading effect of 5 little problems, The OEM starter may never crank it fast enough, but a few minutes at 2500 RPM will start even the weakest of motors.
RE Air Trap:
I'm going to take a militant middle ground stance on this.
air in the injector pipes may become trapped as it is compressible, and if it compresses rather than squirting out the injector, it re-expends to fill just the space it took before, .002% that slips into the leakby pipes. this is further exacerbated by one or more vanes in the transfer pump being sticky and/or worn.
I find it takes at least 30 seconds to purge, and some pumps will never do it with the injectors hooked up.