Dub Nasty- The rebirth of the dirty diesel

[flowmastergfunk]

Wow! A whole year has gone by since knocking out this engine! After building up my cabby, it got totaled, twice in a week ( not my fault! ) and ever since then I have been working on a 78 diesel shell that I swapped all my cabby parts over to. I know, it is sacrilege to put a gasser setup into a diesel car, but I was working with the parts that I had and a $500 Shell



78' "Rabbit C" 2.0l JH/ABA
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5932264-Define-sleeper...

Anywho, the reason I am digging this up is because the chick that bought Dub Nasty is going to sell it again. She never really got comfortable driving stick, so it has just been sitting and waiting to get regular use. I think it is about time for me to buy her back and tie up some loose ends!

I also finally bought a good fuel pressure test kit this year, so I should be able to do some fine tuning and really bring this car to the pinnacle of it's performance. I miss cruising in this tuna boat and I miss the diesel forum! I just miss diesel!!
 

[flowmastergfunk]

Well hello! Look who is hanging out in front of my house! Hi old friend!

She is looking a bit haggard, but now that she is MINE, I can treat her as she deserves to be treated

I think plenty of us can vouch for how nice the engine itself turned out, but this doesn't look right to me. It looks sloppy and unfinished. Ew.

I did finally get an old screw on fuel filter mount, so getting all the fuel lines cleaned up will be the first step. I am really excited to get the pump pressure spot on and possibly recheck the timing while I am at it. I never even knew where I left off! The "mystery" tune can be solved Second, I am going to start tucking away the wires a little bit at a time. I am also pretty sure I have enough 2gauge cable to move the battery to the trunk, but that may be a little bit more of a back-burner project. I just want to clean up the mess of wires over the transmission! My CIS bay almost looks cleaner than this! I did pick up a PERFECT little fuse block from the junkyard a while back thatis going to be used for the revised glow plug unit. I do believe it came out of a Saab, but I can't exactly recall. There will even be one leftover fuse for another random accessory!

I used the radioshack special fuse block at the time, which I wasn't fond of to begin with...but it was a POS. This will also give me a chance to set it up as it was intended, for four individual fuses, instead of two plug paired onto on fuse


I have got lots of big plans, but I am just going to chew one bite at a time. There are only a few things concerning me performance wise.

I put all new mounts in it when I dropped the motor in, put it feels like there is a lot of engine movement when I let the clutch out. I shook it around and ALL of the travel looks like it is in the right rear. There aren't many aftermarket options, other than the techtonics HD mount and the prothane insert. I have heard a lot of people say that prothane inserts are junk in the mk1 world, but I think that was just in comparison to the performance of full poly mounts...and I know better than to go with ubersolid mounts on a diesel! 

Any experience with the TT HD mount and/or the prothane insert in a mk2 diesel?

I also remember when I FIRST bought this car, it had an engine damper attached to the strut tower. I took it off since the damper was blown and making a bunch of noise, but I had since lost the bracket. I had almost forgotten about that until I stumbled upon this picture of a brilliant looking mount today...



Apparently from an AAZ passat? Looks like a work of art! Anyone running one of these?? I don't even know how I would find one!

One way or another, That mount has gotta stiffin up!! The amount of travel is unacceptable! Especially since I have been running stage two poly with my gas motor haha

Glad to be back guys! Hope everyone has been doing well!

[ORCoaster]

I would say you have your work cut out for you that Reddish Rabbit back there is in need of a few details it seems.  What is the story on that little cuttie. 

[flowmastergfunk]

That is the one that I mentioned on my last post! It will have me stoned as a blasphemer in here! It is a late 78 diesel that I bought as a rolling shell. It was gutted when I got it, and not so much a candidate for a true to vin restoration...but I made due with the wrecked cabby that I had and turned it into a monster! I actually have the head off right now, doing some P&P and getting it ready to send in to have it prepped for my 41/35 valves. I swore my next project was to be a 1.9td when i first started on the jetta, but I was working with what I had....and working it well hopefully have some dyno numbers for it when the head is finished.

I need boost in my life!!!!

[ORCoaster]

Just didn't scroll down far enough I guess.  Gasser  eeewwwuuuhhh.

[Alleslowbuged]

Hi,

whatever you schedule do not valuable stiffen up the right rear engine mount in a golf mk2 diesel. I have tried a couple of thinks, like Pu inserts, nearly full rubber motorsport brushes and so on and everything came out as fully unusable, i have lost a couple of bolts all over the car and my dashboard rattles since them, the vibration level was so high that you could not even speak in the car or listen to the radio, unless you are below 1000 rpm ord above 4500 rpm (what is not the most time during daily driving). I you wand to limit engine travel go and look at the front mount, there it should be possible to stiffen up everthing a little bit, without vibrate out of the car. But i have to state out, that i did not try that up to now, in the moment i life with the engine travel.

I guy from germany make the suggestion to use the setup VW use on newer cars with a stabiliser bar. The only information i cane give you is this picture that it comes from a polo:

http://www.vagcat.com/p/B158/199200.png

Best Regards
Alleslowbuged

[flowmastergfunk]

Thank you so much for the advice! Sadly, that is exactly what I feared. I am hoping I can find a mount with the damper shock as pictured. I feel that that would be a happy medium that would yield satisfactory results. I am pretty sure I have a g60 mount for the trans, and I believe the front is just stock. I can literally pinpoint the movement to that corner, but I understand indefinitely how and why any attempt to solidify that corner will send vibrations throughout the car.

I also realized, when I did the clutch upgrade on this, I put a gasser flywheel on it. The lighter flywheel may allow the engine more HP and torque at the bottom end (more so in low gears), but it is also causing the rpms to fall more quickly once the clutch is pushed in. With that being said, it makes sense why shifting would become rougher, but all of that "gained" torque is just lost in the mount, and not applied to the wheels. I don't have a very sporty gear ratio anyways, so I suppose I can't complain much about usable torque.

Also, I never replaced the front subframe bushings in this car. not sure how much of a difference those are going to make. Anyone used poly subframe mounts and lived to tell the tale?

[theman53]

The rear mount sends tons of vibrations. I had a manual mount with a poly insert and your teeth itch at idle. Going down the road it wasn't horrible, but it was very noticeable. I put a medium poly trans mount in, a solid rubber G60 mount up front *modded* and the stock all rubber rear mount for the MK2. It is about as stiff as you would ever want to make it for a daily car.

The modded front mount is the G60 unit, but I have a chain running under it from the mount bolt to the extra bolt for the starter mount. It is set so when the nut was off the mount and I jacked up the trans the chain stopped it before the engine mount came off the stud on the G60 mount. The chain will catch it if it would fail or try to stretch too far. So all the benefit of the rubber cushion mount and the added benefit of a solid mount when the chain is tight.

There is no gained torque from a lighter flywheel. The flywheel is just a storage device, heavier should feel like more torque lighter will rev faster than heavier. Also the rear mount shouldn't be as important on the engine roll in the forward gears as much as the front mount. If you go to autohaus az and look up this part # 191199262A  that is what I am running in the rear. I have never ran the hydro mount in the rear but have heard they are even softer than the rubber ones.

[flowmastergfunk]

Hmm...I think I am going to have to give that front mount a shot. I can't recall which mounts I got before...the tranny mount is so stiff, it would be hard to believe it's not a g60. Thank you for the advice! I still want to be on the look out for one of those AAZ mounts though! I imagine it being a rare piece.

You are also correct about the flywheel. I am just under the impression that a lighter flywheel "fooling" the the engine into thinking the car is lighter than it really is, means an increase in HP and torque to the wheels. I know that diesels have a heavy flywheel for the reason of storing that energy and helping the engine keep it's momentum, but the whole clutch ordeal that I went through is what made me end up with the gas flywheel in the first place. You are bringing me down! I thought I got to tack on some extra digits to my hp and torque specs

Well, at least I got to add a few HP by putting on my backwards g60 valve cover! haha


Just gotta get some allen bolts to replace the studs and set up the breather. I have a nice catch can that I haven't ended up using on my rabbit, so I may integrate it into this. It is a pretty nice vented one with two inlets on the sides...so I am guessing that if I went from the VC to the can, and the other side went back to the intake still...there would be enough vacuum to keep it from venting fumes into the atmosphere tooooo much. I have never set up a catch can before, so I can't say for sure.

Got a mk1 screw on filter mounted up to the strut tower, so that helped clean things up a bit. Still need to get some new hose, but it looks much better than everything just dangling there and held out of the way with zipties haha.

Got the wiring clean up a little bit too, but I am still anxious to re locate the battery and stealth away all the wires that aren't engine and sensor related.
...minus the brake fluid level sensor. I think I will know when my brake fluid is low. That is one sensor I can do without

I DID finally get an Aubern EGT setup purchased and on it's way, along with a couple of slim 10"fans. I am going to be on the prowl for a passat 16v dual fan shroud and modify it to hold the low profile fans. I do NOT want to melt this engine haha

I know R.O.R. really hates my intake (and I am sure he can't be the only one), but I have been back to the drawing board on intake plans, and I have questions alongside suggestions. I find it worthy of digging up another thread on n/a and gasser intakes, so that if anyone else is going to chime in or benefit from it, they won't have to hunt through a build page to do so

I need to make friends with a dyno and flow bench so we can all see numberssss!!!

[ORCoaster]

With all the improvements made here I think you should invest in some mouse traps.  That swiss cheese intake cover is surely going to bring them in.

But I can see the advantage to it for flow.  Maybe not cold air but no constriction happening here for sure.

[flowmastergfunk]

HAHAHAHA lately, my cars have been more prone to collecting spiders and it TERRIFIES me! I cant stand seeing my cars connected to the ground by spiderwebs!

Even though I may be stoned to death for ricing out a fine German automobile, function wise, I really want to mount a subaru scoop I think it will make a tremendous difference. Particularly so if I fabricate some sort of matching piece under the hood to guide all the air right to the intake box. My rain tray delete should help the hot air get sucked out through the vents at the back of the hood. Should stay plenty cool! And next time I am stuck in central California on the 101, at a dead stop, in 105degree weather... hopefully the dual fans will keep me from having to turn the heater on full blast to keep the engine cool. That SUCKED!

Never again!

[8v-of-fury]

Careful. There is a very strong low pressure right on top of the hood.. if you open up the hood to the engine bay, you may inadvertently hinder flow through the rad by making the engine bay high pressure with the hole in the hood shoving air in, and the underside of the car rushing by. 

[ORCoaster]

VW does make a hood scoop that goes over the vent on the hood.  Ever see one of them?  I had the chance to pick one up for 45 and passed on it.  If I see another I might just do it.  Not very high, like 3/4 of an inch and about 8 by 16 all total. 

You could tape D-Con boxes on it and when people ask you what's with that you can pop the hood and tell them it protects the cheezy air cleaner cover. 

I am going for a chicken wire over frame on mine after seeing this holey conversion.

[flowmastergfunk]

I have never LEARNED so much from posting in a forum. You guys are great! Looks like I have a new area to do research in. If that is the case, I wonder what kind of negative effects I have already reaped from deleting my raintray :/ Now I am wondering what is happening around the existing hood vents when I drive. Looks like I need an online physics class...

I was already imagining putting a hoodscoop on and watching it get ripped back off haha

So if I were to open up my hood with a scoop, I would pretty much have to have the opening routed and sealed directly to the airbox, avoiding any significant flow to the rest of the engine bay? I am surprisingly more interested than I am deterred...

[8v-of-fury]

Well you have already removed the rain tray and the seal on top of it SOO you already have a hood scoop on there. And probably a pretty good one at that. Ever feel how much air gets rammed through the interior vents with the fan off? INTENSE.

To not have the hood scoop opening sealed to the intake tract, would only allow the filter to still suck hot engine bay air. Mind you this is a step above what you had. Most gains will be seen from sealing it to the hood and allowing a fuel gulp of cold forced air.