GT2056V on a 1.6TD...

[R.O.R-2.0]

oh, trust me, im almost scared of this turbo right now.. im kinda thinking that it is going to be a bit of a monster on this engine. i wanted something reliable. this may be a little too hot to be reliable.. i was making 20+psi at 1/2 - 2/3 pedal last night. not even getting on it at all.

if its going to make that much boost, that easy, then im wondering what its going to do once i really throw some heat at it..

[8v-of-fury]

Blow Up. lol

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Dude, I don't believe a word your saying till we see pics and video of it installed.

JK.

Glad to hear that you got that all up and running. So how are you controlling the vanes? Did you end up using the exhaust manifold i gave you?

[RabbitJockey]

yeah pics and all that jazz.  i've been thinking for a long time it'd be more interesting performance wise if more people would try larger turbos... but everybody is too scared of lag.

[R.O.R-2.0]

yeah pics and all that jazz.  i've been thinking for a long time it'd be more interesting performance wise if more people would try larger turbos... but everybody is too scared of lag.

pfft, there aint none! this is a VNT my homies!!

this turbo is awesome, and i havent even driven it 5 miles, or gotten hard on the throttle yet..

[R.O.R-2.0]

Dude, I don't believe a word your saying till we see pics and video of it installed.

JK.

Glad to hear that you got that all up and running. So how are you controlling the vanes? Did you end up using the exhaust manifold i gave you?

well, i almost couldnt use the manifold.. i had to shorten the collector, to bring the turbo intake up off the engine mount. then i had to trim the engine mount to keep it from hitting the cold side of the turbo.. then i had to trim the bracket on the subframe for the engine mount, because the wastegate can (vane actuator) was actually hitting too..

also had to flip the manifold back the way it was, collector pointing down, turbo low mounted. the way the manifold was when i got it from you, would have high mounted the turbo, and mounted it upside down..

as for vane control, the vanes dont start opening until 5-6 psi, and are completely open by 10-12 psi. im not sure if thats going to be the for sure way im controlling my vanes, but i gotta have something hooked up for now..

[R.O.R-2.0]

and another thing.. am i stupid for wanting to run this on a stock engine?

i see people with head girdles, h beams, metal gaskets, all sorts of fun parts.. im still stock.. is this an issue i should worry about?

basically, if you guys suggest a rebuild of the engine, then im gonna use my 1.6TD that i have, and not the vanagon engine im running now.. im going to be going with head studs and a metal head gasket tho.. i figure thats the LEAST i could do. i think i want to blow the fiber gasket tho, just to see what they are good for, because im honestly partial to fiber gaskets, because they have more GIVE to them, they are almost elastic in a way.. im thinking that this turbo SHOULD be fine on head gaskets tho. because drive pressure blows head gaskets, not boost pressure. being that this is a VNT, and it has a very free flowing exhaust housing, then drive pressure really shouldnt be much of an issue. i will still be monitoring drive pressure in the initial tuning stage tho.. im really not ASKING to have problems..

i know its not a good idea to run without piston cooler jets, but it shouldnt be AS BAD, being that i have a VNT..

im expecting to have lots of cool efficient boost on tap at all times.. last time i drove it was without an intercooler, and it really didnt FEEL like it even needed one. felt like it was still maintaining efficiency.. intake manifold was NOT frying hot either, witch was good. all my other turbos made the intake cookin hot after 20psi..

and being that this is a ram-horn style manifold, it comes up fairly high behind the stock intake manifold. im wondering how much heat soak i am getting from the manifolds being in such close proximity? the stock manifolds usually come straight off the head, and point towards the firewall. well, this one i got, comes out and the runners goes UP towards the hood, then head back down towards the ground, and finally, connect up to the collector of the manifold. the exhaust manifold kinda HUGS the intake manifold, basically the whole manifold. should i worry about getting the exhaust manifold coated, wrapping it, or building some type of aluminum heat shield?

coming up with a downpipe is going to be very easy tho. all im going to have to do is build/buy a turbo flange, and then one single 90* elbow will be sufficient to get the exhaust out of the engine bay. having a low mounted turbo really makes downpipe fab a cake walk..

with a high mounted turbo, you have ALOT more bends in the downpipe, just to clear everything. with a VNT, they are down soo low that you dont have to clear near as much hardware..

think it would be worth it to build a short downpipe with a v-band connection on the end, so i can disconnect it easily from the exhaust system? i was just thinking about coming out of the turbo, going about 4", and welding on a V-band connection. so basically just a short elbow that bolts onto the outlet side of the turbo, with a V-band connection.. all of it will be 2.5" also.. i dont see the need for 3" pipe, besides, its pretty hard to get 3" under a mk2 car.

i really want your opinions guys.. they DO mean alot to me. i kinda almost feel like im out here alone in no-mans land. theres NO INFO about installing a turbo like this in a mk2, or on a TD.. just nothing out there about this swap..

i should be taking more pictures of this swap!!

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Yes, you should at least wrap the exhaust manifold and maybe even have the intake manifold coated to aid in isolating the two.
So your using a boost pressure can to control the vanes? Or some linkage from the pump like Andrew?
Seriously, get that fiber gasket out of there! All that luck your having will soon wear thin and the damage to the head, piston, rods or even the blocks deck is not a fun path to fix. Unless you like fixing your ride.
I would also recommend using a rebuilt engine but thats just me. Ya hear of other just slapping on a turbo and next post is that its blown a HG and or the engine itself. If you want any longevity or reliance from your build its best to start with good bones.
Yes, using a TD block will aid you in keeping the pistons cool and having a 12mm block.
Stock rods are fine, but recommend ARP rod bolts and main cap bolts. A balanced rotating assembly, from V-belt pulley to clutch.
Did you ever get a TD injection pump yet. I got one thats been rebuilt by DFIS here in Portland. PM me if interested.

You think thats a big turbo. I've got my 2260 I'm putting on my engine!

Can't wait for pics and video of your setup.

[RabbitJockey]

A 2056 is indeed a serious turbo, I think maybe u should start preparing ur td engine and then see how long ur current engine lasts haha.  When I have my car back together which will probably be eons, I'll have a ported head, polished rods, and arp rod bolts, those three things I think will make a huge difference in longevity and power over all.  Arp hardware on the mains and head studs with a metal gasket.  But like all of us here no these engines aren't like Hondas there aren't 5 million people seeing what works and what don't so it's all an experiment

[R.O.R-2.0]

Yes, you should at least wrap the exhaust manifold and maybe even have the intake manifold coated to aid in isolating the two.
So your using a boost pressure can to control the vanes? Or some linkage from the pump like Andrew?
Seriously, get that fiber gasket out of there! All that luck your having will soon wear thin and the damage to the head, piston, rods or even the blocks deck is not a fun path to fix. Unless you like fixing your ride.
I would also recommend using a rebuilt engine but thats just me. Ya hear of other just slapping on a turbo and next post is that its blown a HG and or the engine itself. If you want any longevity or reliance from your build its best to start with good bones.
Yes, using a TD block will aid you in keeping the pistons cool and having a 12mm block.
Stock rods are fine, but recommend ARP rod bolts and main cap bolts. A balanced rotating assembly, from V-belt pulley to clutch.
Did you ever get a TD injection pump yet. I got one thats been rebuilt by DFIS here in Portland. PM me if interested.

You think thats a big turbo. I've got my 2260 I'm putting on my engine!

Can't wait for pics and video of your setup.

im controlling the vanes solely based on boost. no linkage from the pump.

i figured i should get the header wrapped, will a heat shield not be enough? getting the intake coated as well?

ive got a 12mm engine. theres no way i would be running a turbo like this on an 11mm engine..

yes, ive got a real TD pump. ive just got a stock pump on there for now (rebuilt like 20k ago) but i have a Peugeot 10mm injection pump that ive been waiting to install.. now that i have a pyrometer, and enough air flow to warrant the extra fuel, i just might install that 10mm pump instead of the stock 9mm VW pump..

and josh, how come you never ran this turbo? it would have fit right on your caddy no problem. you wouldnt have had to modify it at all, not like i had to atleast..

anyways, im going to go build a downpipe.. i drew up a flange on CAD, and cut it out with our torch-mate computer controlled plazma cutter in class today.. my instructor has been letting me work on the project during class time, and is giving me class credit for it also. this setup is going to be the nicest, cleanest turbo setup ive ever had. its gonna be nice to have something decent looking under the head.

im going to modify my stock intake manifold next week. gonna cut the top half of it off, and turn it into a passenger performance style dual plenum intake manifold..

metal gasket and head studs are on the top of my TO-DO list..

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Sweet. You get to play with a torch mate! Thems is cool.

That 10mm head and plunger will give you lots of fuel and reserve.

Just wrapping the exhaust will help to keep the heat transfering to the turbo and under hood temps. Sure a polished stainless steel shield will help too, between the two manifolds.

I never ran this setup just due to other projects and the Mercedes setup wasn't that bad.

Sounds like you are gonna have a great time with you car.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Well, i need to come up with a better way to control the vanes. maybe linkages like andrew drew up..

it spools great on the bottom end, then the vanes open up at about 10psi, and thats WAY too soon. the vanes need to open at like 20psi..

it was making 20psi at half pedal because the vanes were not opening, for whatever reason.. the vanes are operating now (i can hear them)

and im stuck making 10psi.. FOR NOW. maybe its a blessing in disguise?

[8v-of-fury]

Hey kevo, I was getting way more power with my ko3 at stock waste gate seeings(10psi) then I was with my waste gate disconnected.. The mtdi could probably fuel 20psi with quarter throttle on the ko3. So yes it may be a blessing! A totally non restricted 15_20 psi could be awesome sauce.

[R.O.R-2.0]

Hey kevo, I was getting way more power with my ko3 at stock waste gate seeings(10psi) then I was with my waste gate disconnected.. The mtdi could probably fuel 20psi with quarter throttle on the ko3. So yes it may be a blessing! A totally non restricted 15_20 psi could be awesome sauce.

im looking for 20-25psi completely unrestricted.. i would be SUPER happy with that..

[R.O.R-2.0]

i think im going to mess around with adding a spring to the control assembly today, that adds very little resistance to the vanes at part throttle, and adds considerable resistance when you crack the throttle open, effectively making the opening pressure of the wastegate variable with throttle position..

so, at part throttle, there will be hardly any added spring tension, and the vanes will operate as they are now, maxing out at 10psi.

but at heavy throttle conditions, the cable coming from the IP throttle will pull the spring tighter, making the vanes close more, and making the boost pressure rise.

im going to be messing around with hooking a spring to the actual vane lever on the turbo, and having the other end of the spring mounted to a bracket that changes position based on throttle position..

its going to basically accomplish the same thing as Andrews setup, but with a single cable and spring, rather than linkages. and my setup will not be able to hold the throttle open when boost comes up..

(THIS IS ALL IN THEORY, i need to mock it up, and see how/if it works)

if my idea doesnt work, then im probably going to build something similar to the control system Andrew built. its proven, known to work good..