...BTW your Bieber avatar is awesome.-Malone
Looks like a fun project. I think it will be large for a 1.6 but with vanes closed it will likely spool faster than a K24 or T3 and be able to flow rod-bending boost efficiently with vanes open. As far as spooling as well as your last turbo, I can't really say. I can't really account for how your last turbo performed. I've used a couple VNT15s on 1.6TDs and with vanes fully open and close-to-stock fueling and they have a hard time making 7-8 psi of boost.
Quote from: libbydiesel on May 27, 2012, 12:01:28 pmLooks like a fun project. I think it will be large for a 1.6 but with vanes closed it will likely spool faster than a K24 or T3 and be able to flow rod-bending boost efficiently with vanes open. As far as spooling as well as your last turbo, I can't really say. I can't really account for how your last turbo performed. I've used a couple VNT15s on 1.6TDs and with vanes fully open and close-to-stock fueling and they have a hard time making 7-8 psi of boost. you said it yourself tho, that i am DANGEROUSLY over fueled.. and im going to buy an EGT gauge today, to see exactly how right you are..my pump always made 20psi (with ease) or more with a VNT15, vanes fully open.i hope it doesnt matter that this is a StreetToys 2000 hybrid turbo. i hope that doesnt make it a laggy dog.rod bending boost you say? so, basically is what your saying, is that head studs are basically a requirement for this turbo?should i do anything to the bottom end of the engine? its 100% stock right now..
Actually the difference in efficiency is not from heat out the exhaust, but rather increased heat lost to the cooling system due to the increased surface area of the pre-combustion chambers. The waste heat out the exhaust is similar for TDI and IDI.
Quote from: R.O.R-2.0 on May 27, 2012, 12:26:23 pmQuote from: libbydiesel on May 27, 2012, 12:01:28 pmLooks like a fun project. I think it will be large for a 1.6 but with vanes closed it will likely spool faster than a K24 or T3 and be able to flow rod-bending boost efficiently with vanes open. As far as spooling as well as your last turbo, I can't really say. I can't really account for how your last turbo performed. I've used a couple VNT15s on 1.6TDs and with vanes fully open and close-to-stock fueling and they have a hard time making 7-8 psi of boost. you said it yourself tho, that i am DANGEROUSLY over fueled.. and im going to buy an EGT gauge today, to see exactly how right you are..my pump always made 20psi (with ease) or more with a VNT15, vanes fully open.i hope it doesnt matter that this is a StreetToys 2000 hybrid turbo. i hope that doesnt make it a laggy dog.rod bending boost you say? so, basically is what your saying, is that head studs are basically a requirement for this turbo?should i do anything to the bottom end of the engine? its 100% stock right now..I should have said that the only way I can account for your ability to produce high boost from a VNT15 with vanes fully open would be from excessive fuel. I think the Street toys turbo with vanes fully closed will spool as fast or faster than a VNT15 with vanes fully open. I think the head gasket will be a weaker link than the bottom end.
If it is a 2256v it could be the same VNT that I have. I am going to run it on mine, but I am having some serious stuff done to help the head out. I am convinced that the forged crank VW gave these cars is almost grenade proof. The rods are quite tough as well, my #3 bent, but it had the entire precup in the hole and the head faired much worse. I bet #3 rod I have would still run with a miss in an otherwise healthy engine as it isn't bent all that bad. The blocks could be a bit beefier. All in all I think the alum head is by far the weakest link. I think no matter what turbo the precups will heat and expand more than the aluminum if you throw fuel at them. If I were you I would have a spare head and you should be good to go. I have those AAZ engines and an AAZ head that will get that 2256v when the 1.6 has it figured out.