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#30
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 May, 2012 11:17
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only the pass side flange... drivers is not a issue.. and it is for "ease" so up to you... me.. id pull it... ive done it both ways... i prefer ease.. no silly twisting and such to get it on/off engine/flywheel... worth buyin a new cap.. till you do a 100mm set up with flange off.. you will never see how easy life is...
again.. if you try with it on, get stuck, pissed off so on.. you can slide tranny back on, add a bolt.. pull flange and try again..
[/quote
I am confused as hell. You say only remove the passenger side flange? In your post below, you say the problem is the flange clearing the flywheel? However, the flywheel is on the drivers side, so shouldn't the driver's flange be removed and not the passenger's flange?
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#31
by
rodpaslow
on 17 May, 2012 11:31
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The passenger flange is the problem because it doesn't clear the bottom part of the block. There is a bolt that holds the tranny on (near the flange) and the block has a fairly heavy/ thick area there that the flange doesn't clear easily unless your the 'Hulk'. It's much easier to remove the flange - it's only one circlip and it usually taps out easily after the clip is off. Drivers side theirs nothing close to it, so it can stay on without causing any problems.
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#32
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 May, 2012 11:48
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If I remove the passenger flange will the transmission drop straight down without rotation? I am no hulk and don't want to bench press it out. I want to lower it with a winch. will that work?
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#33
by
nathan_b
on 17 May, 2012 12:21
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If I remove the passenger flange will the transmission drop straight down without rotation? I am no hulk and don't want to bench press it out. I want to lower it with a winch. will that work?
it is up to you if it works or not
probably will.
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#34
by
CRSMP5
on 17 May, 2012 12:35
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think of passengers side flange.... behind engine block.... flywheel between the block and tranny... and its not the block that holds you up its the flywheel.... look at how the flange covers over the opening of the bell housing (look at one you puttin in)... flywheel pretty much fills that hole... you have to tip *** to clear..
with flange off you slide to drivers side... then down... does not fall straight down as shaft in clutch...
taking drivers flange off no help at all... not even close to flywheel... unless you got right hand drive...
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#35
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 17 May, 2012 13:27
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Every night , I kneel down and pray that my clutch has a long and useful life. This is such a royal pain on the MkII.
pfft.. mk2 is easier than mk1. and WAY easier than mk3..
but then again, ive been under the hood of a mk2 a time or 400..
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#36
by
rodpaslow
on 17 May, 2012 13:54
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I would agree MK2 is easier than MK1, I've done a few MK3 with 020, I find they are easier than MK2 (golf, Don't know about jetta) because they don't have that stamped steel brace that the MK2 has on the tranny mount. I have an 02a I want to get redone, then we'll see how it fits in MK3...
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#37
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 17 May, 2012 18:05
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Well, got the clip off. I took a cheapo pair of c clip pliers I have with round sides and shaped it with a file to flat sides with a sharp edge for better grip. The metal was not very hard so it slipped a bunch of times before i got it to bite and got it off. The flange didn't want to come off. I tried prying and hammering on it but it didn't give. Any other ideal? Going to make a puller.
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#38
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 18 May, 2012 11:46
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I would agree MK2 is easier than MK1, I've done a few MK3 with 020, I find they are easier than MK2 (golf, Don't know about jetta) because they don't have that stamped steel brace that the MK2 has on the tranny mount. I have an 02a I want to get redone, then we'll see how it fits in MK3...
i take that stamped steel bracket off, throw it as far as i can, and put everything back together.. its not there on the mk3, so it wasnt very important on the mk2s either!
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#39
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 May, 2012 19:16
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The passenger flange is the problem because it doesn't clear the bottom part of the block. There is a bolt that holds the tranny on (near the flange) and the block has a fairly heavy/ thick area there that the flange doesn't clear easily unless your the 'Hulk'. It's much easier to remove the flange - it's only one circlip and it usually taps out easily after the clip is off. Drivers side theirs nothing close to it, so it can stay on without causing any problems.
Is this (empty block bolt hole, center of pic) where the flange doesn't clear? Flange has been removed in this pic.
I wish the flange just taps out easily. I made a puller and couldn't get it to budge, I had to heat it a bit with a propane torch then it it finally came off.
The passenger motor mount untouched, front mount has been removed, top bolt of tranny mount is out. all bolts except one top bolt of tranny has been removed. I need to get the 2 horizontal bolts out but the frame is in the way. The engine is hung from the support bar and if I lower it anymore, it will crush the oil filter (pic), which is almost touching the frame. Do I winch the engine back? Take the oil filter off? Do I need to take the passenger engine mount off?
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#40
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 May, 2012 19:21
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I would agree MK2 is easier than MK1, I've done a few MK3 with 020, I find they are easier than MK2 (golf, Don't know about jetta) because they don't have that stamped steel brace that the MK2 has on the tranny mount. I have an 02a I want to get redone, then we'll see how it fits in MK3...
i take that stamped steel bracket off, throw it as far as i can, and put everything back together.. its not there on the mk3, so it wasnt very important on the mk2s either!
Is that what you did to your mk2? So you only have the front and passenger engine mounts and no tranny mount???
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#41
by
CRSMP5
on 19 May, 2012 19:27
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the piece of tin wiht a 10mm headed bolt and a 11mm headed bolt between flange area and block has to come off too.... still on in pic you took..
like i said.. the engine block and flange is NOT the issue... the flywheel and flange is...
remove aluminum rear mount.. 3 13mm headed bolts on diff housing area... then tranny drops enough to remove the 17mm bolts that holds the stamped steel one in place..
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#42
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 May, 2012 19:51
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Good eyes! I took that small piece of tin off after i took the pics.
I forget who it was but I thought someone says specifically to leave the passenger motor mount on?
Apparently that no worky?
I want to try to put the ACN in without taking off the flange. I will not have any help. Please give details on how to.
Here's the ACN patiently waiting.
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#43
by
CRSMP5
on 19 May, 2012 20:29
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there is no tell how to... its fight it via tip/tilt till tranny flange clears the flywheel... no hoist/cable gotta be by feel... so benchpress method...
sadly you like to listen to everyone... i know how i do it between 3-4hr with clutch/seals... i keep saying easy best... removing mounts = easy... to leve mounts on... how does it mis the subframe/rear mount?? like one of my inital posts.. 2 things cannot occupy the same place.. the more crap you get out of the way.. the easier it is to remove..
now.. ill be brutal here... put the flange back on if your going to not remove the other one.. there is only 1 way in/out.. to know how to get out.. makes easier to put in.. else you will not know how to tip/tilt/fight it to get it back in... bench pressing out far easier then benchpressing back in..
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#44
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 19 May, 2012 20:49
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Alright, you've convinced me. I'll order flange seal kits. How do you install the seal and clrclip with tranny in car? What tools do I need to make?
Does the clutch stay on the engine when I pull the tranny? Is it possible to check clutch thickness and condition without removing it?