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#15
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 May, 2012 11:08
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i leave the axles there, just un-bolt the drive flanges, and hang the axles from some bailing wire..
and do it on ramps..
if you take the axles out, or remove the pinch bolts, then its easier to do it on stands..
use your support bar, hook it to the DRIVERS SIDE of the head only.
and remove the front engine, and rear trans mount, and lower the engine/trans down a bit..
remove trans...
there were a few parts left out, but they will become real apparent once you get in there..
its a VERY simple job..
With wheels on ramps, how do I get the flange XZN bolts out? When I pulled the passenger axle to drill the exh manifold for an EGT probe, the only way to get those bolts (with good access) was to do each at 6 o'clock meaning I had to turn the wheel 6 times.
come to think of it, i must have done it on stands..
because i turn the wheels to get the flange bolts out too...
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#16
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 14 May, 2012 08:41
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come to think of it, i must have done it on ramps..
because i turn the wheels to get the flange bolts out too...
Did you mean to say: "I must have done it on jack stands" ?
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#17
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 14 May, 2012 21:50
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yes..
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#18
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 15 May, 2012 09:36
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i pull the axles... at min the drivers side... ball joint has to come apart for that on a mk2... next.. on pass side the axle flange needs removed to get it out with ease... if 90mm... if 100mm has to come off no matter what...
so ramps no working to remove drivers axel..
I've got only the driver's side on a jack stand, XZN bolts loosened and need to take the ball joint pinch bolt out and hopefully that will give room for the axle to swing out out of the way.
You said: "pass side the axle flange needs removed to get it out with ease.". Did you mean I have to pull the flange off of the tranny? Doing so would require destroying the flange center cap seal and a special puller is also needed to pull the flange. Please clarify if that is what you meant and why it is necessary.
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#19
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 15 May, 2012 11:05
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i pull the axles... at min the drivers side... ball joint has to come apart for that on a mk2... next.. on pass side the axle flange needs removed to get it out with ease... if 90mm... if 100mm has to come off no matter what...
so ramps no working to remove drivers axel..
I've got only the driver's side on a jack stand, XZN bolts loosened and need to take the ball joint pinch bolt out and hopefully that will give room for the axle to swing out out of the way.
You said: "pass side the axle flange needs removed to get it out with ease.". Did you mean I have to pull the flange off of the tranny? Doing so would require destroying the flange center cap seal and a special puller is also needed to pull the flange. Please clarify if that is what you meant and why it is necessary.
ive NEVER removed a drive flange to remove a trans..
if you twist it just right, it comes right out.. whole trans, no disassembly required..
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#20
by
damac
on 16 May, 2012 00:25
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on my 85 jetta i have always left the car on its wheels.
take the little plate off the tranny shield, zip tie and move axles out of the way and leave yhe passenger side mount installed. then i raise and take off the other mounts and their hardware.
then i can mess with 2 jacks if need be on engine side and tranny side. you will get a feel for it but basically you are dropping the tranny side down and then spinning housing up to clear the adle flanges. then support tranny weight on way down as you go to seperate instead of it hanging on shaft.
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#21
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 16 May, 2012 14:11
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I have most everything disconnected. front engine mount is out. power steering line is in the way of the transmission mount top bolt. I suppose the only way to get that bolt out is to get that power steering line off? what a pita!
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#22
by
CRSMP5
on 16 May, 2012 18:49
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just bend line so it out of way....
do you have 90 or 100mm inner joints?? if 100mm the flange HAS to come off.. and no puller required... snap ring pliers to unclip and it pops off... if 90 you can leve it on.. but ill say it again.. makes life so easy as you DO NOT HAVE to twist/dick around...
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#23
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 16 May, 2012 19:35
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just bend line so it out of way....
do you have 90 or 100mm inner joints?? if 100mm the flange HAS to come off.. and no puller required... snap ring pliers to unclip and it pops off... if 90 you can leve it on.. but ill say it again.. makes life so easy as you DO NOT HAVE to twist/dick around...
That's what I ended up doing, bend the line out of the way, which looked not possible because the ferrule/pipe is directly over the bolt, preventing access. This was after spending an hour trying (unsuccessfully) to get the pwr steering line off the pinion valve. The 18 mm flare nut wrench was not a tight fit on the flare nut (likely due to rust), had too much play, and couldn't get the nut to break loose.
I have 90 mm axles. Are you saying I should take the flanges off? That means destroying 2 center caps and a special puller. The ACN I'm putting in has new flange center caps, do I destroy those too and pull the flanges off to get the ACN in easier? That's just crazy!
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#24
by
CRSMP5
on 16 May, 2012 20:37
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only the pass side flange... drivers is not a issue.. and it is for "ease" so up to you... me.. id pull it... ive done it both ways... i prefer ease.. no silly twisting and such to get it on/off engine/flywheel... worth buyin a new cap.. till you do a 100mm set up with flange off.. you will never see how easy life is...
again.. if you try with it on, get stuck, pissed off so on.. you can slide tranny back on, add a bolt.. pull flange and try again..
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#25
by
CrazyAndy
on 16 May, 2012 21:30
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I'm going with CRS on this one. I've had to to the trans rotation all the while maneuvering it from under the car. Rotating AND bench pressing a trans? Should have cataloged all the new swear words I invented; might have made me public enemy #1 of Websters New College English Dictionary.
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#26
by
92EcoDiesel Jetta
on 16 May, 2012 22:08
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I don't have new center caps. new caps at least 4 days away and I need the car this weekend so I'm going to have to do it the hard way.
do I slide the transmission input shaft completely off the engine first before rotating? how much rotation?
I want to use two winches to do the holding of the transmission and rotation. is that doable?
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#27
by
smutts
on 17 May, 2012 03:09
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If you do need to undo those triple square bolts, use a small screwdriver to dig out the congealed gunk in the bolt heads, then gently tap the tool in with a hammer to fully seat it. This prevents LOTS of swearing if otherwise the wretched things strip. I am a hater of those things. Ditto if you are doing the cylinder head, get a syringe to suck out that pool of oil in the headbolt, or roll the car onto its roof for a few seconds.
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#28
by
CRSMP5
on 17 May, 2012 03:16
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there is only 1 sweet spot it comes off.... and it is a twist, slide main off clutch same time, then tilt nose cone of tranny towards say drivers seat too.... the issue is the flange clearing the flywheel... back in 75-77ish they had a cut out on the flywheel to clear the flange.. then eliminated that...
i too bench press method.. i see no way with 2 wenches with flange on it... you have to hit the sweet spot just right.. its a "feel" thing..
old tranny = who cares if you pull the flange... aka one your taking out... problem is you reinsalled the flange on new one too quick after doing its seals... you did put in new drive flange seals i hope... if not.. do them... your asking for problems if not..
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#29
by
rs899
on 17 May, 2012 06:14
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Every night , I kneel down and pray that my clutch has a long and useful life. This is such a royal pain on the MkII.