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#30
by
bbob203
on 12 Apr, 2012 08:34
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what kind of boost is a stock k14 pushing at 65?
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#31
by
theman53
on 12 Apr, 2012 09:20
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For boost it will be somewhere between 0 and 13psi. Depending on load and right foot at the 65mph mark. I would guess for nothing interesting/cruise I would "guess" 5psi. I am just guessing from what my k24 did and I have never owned a k14.
If you have an avx and want to take it to brokevw, you could trade him your 4.25 R&P for a 3.94. Then you would have an AGS. Or swap to the other higher ratio ring and pinion and have a custom like I do.
He might give you a little coin for the 4.25 as that is what the 16v guys are wanting. He also said something about the autocross guys like that one too. That is something you would have to talk to him about though.
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#32
by
bbob203
on 12 Apr, 2012 10:12
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Going to a 3.94 i would lose only 200 rpm at 65. With the 3.67 id lose about 400 or so. But I've also read that with a 3.67 and a k14 it might lag but i really don't care about going fast especially driving around town(just want the turbo for the swirl and potential increase of efficiency and occasional speed) the only time i care about speed is when i need to pass someone in traffic. I'm trying to get the lowest rpm with maximum speed. Im starting to get better at this gear ration thing. Maybe someone on here thats a good mathematician could figure out this figure though. i know peoples fuel mileage varies from say 38mpg to about 55mpg but it would be interesting to see what potential mileage would be by dropping rpms cruising at 65 down by 500. Im getting a consistent 47mpg at 3000 rpms averaging sixty with an AWY(185/65 r14 tires and a 3.94 w/ .89 5th). make sense?
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#33
by
theman53
on 12 Apr, 2012 10:28
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I got the best mileage with the skinny 155/80 r13 tires. I think the entire deal with this is put the engine RPMs where it is going to be right around or a little below peak torque. Since our engines make almost peak probably around 2,200 we probably get the best milage right around there in any given gear. I could be off, but that is how it seems on my rides. Even more so on gas engines.
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#34
by
bbob203
on 12 Apr, 2012 10:35
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I got the best mileage with the skinny 155/80 r13 tires. I think the entire deal with this is put the engine RPMs where it is going to be right around or a little below peak torque. Since our engines make almost peak probably around 2,200 we probably get the best milage right around there in any given gear. I could be off, but that is how it seems on my rides. Even more so on gas engines.
i need to get a tach so i can explore this idea more.
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#35
by
theman53
on 12 Apr, 2012 10:41
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wind resistance and engine power play a big part too. You wouldn't do well in an RV that makes good torque around 2,500 and putting a .5 OD gear in it. Then trying to get somewhere slightly uphill with a head wind. Around 65 and under is where I found my jetta wasn't affected by the wind. Over that and it seems to really start pushing the air. And the engine is turning more RPM too.
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#36
by
bbob203
on 12 Apr, 2012 13:50
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whelp got a lock on an asf for 200 hundred from a reputable source. worth a shot eh?
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#37
by
billybobf
on 12 Apr, 2012 16:28
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hmm, I paid 250 for an ASF, with new CV shafts on both sides of it, with an 8v digi2 complete attached to it... shoot even came with a car attached to it, lol, then it cost me 86 bucks to register it for just over a year, and 77 bucks for a title, lol.
but seems 200 bucks isnt bad if its in good shape, and the ASF is most likely going to have the 100mm flanges and regular seals on both sides right? not green sleeves?
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#38
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 12 Apr, 2012 20:27
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hmm, I paid 250 for an ASF, with new CV shafts on both sides of it, with an 8v digi2 complete attached to it... shoot even came with a car attached to it, lol, then it cost me 86 bucks to register it for just over a year, and 77 bucks for a title, lol.
but seems 200 bucks isnt bad if its in good shape, and the ASF is most likely going to have the 100mm flanges and regular seals on both sides right? not green sleeves?
i paid 200 for an ACN.. it came with a broken axle, and come to think of it, the trans even came with an engine! (and an 86 Golf)
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#39
by
8v-of-fury
on 12 Apr, 2012 21:56
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I paid $50 for my ACN. $25 for the .71 5th gear i purchased with it as well. $30 to reseal it completely, BAM.
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#40
by
bbob203
on 13 Apr, 2012 08:38
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#41
by
GEE-BEE
on 24 Jun, 2012 17:18
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I did a 3.42 with / .71 ff final
Dont ask what I paid for the 3.42 new set....
Later...
GB
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#42
by
8v-of-fury
on 26 Jun, 2012 23:12
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I did a 3.42 with / .71 ff final
Dont ask what I paid for the 3.42 new set....
Later...
GB
niiice
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#43
by
SR Heer
on 01 Aug, 2012 19:55
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I have a 8A which has the 3.67 R&P and a AVX which has the 4.25 R&P - thought about substituting the 8A R&P into the AVX and the gearing results would be exactly same as CHD - how difficult is it to swap out R&Ps - what special tools would I need? Or maybe I should just keep looking for a good used CHD - but hard to find!
I have read before that it is a good idea to replace some rivits ARP bolts - can anyone coment on this? I have been thinking of coupling a mTDI up to my AVX/8A tranny but wonder if the extra torque would be too much for such a hybrid?
If I use the 100mm flanges off of the 8A on AVX I can install the (
http://peloquins.com/products_80.html) a $100 Peloquin 80% LSD shim kit - would this not be a good idea?
What extra dudty clutch could I get to go with 020 trans and still hold up to mTDI and what is the lowest recomended flywheel weight to couple up to mTDI - say like 11lbs? My plan is to put into an 81 VW Rabbit Pickup and use as truck as well as daily driver.
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#44
by
SR Heer
on 01 Aug, 2012 20:23
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My son is planing on putting a 1.6TD from a 92 Ecodiesel into an 82 Caddy - I have looked but does anyone one know of any threads or conversions or info that I can shoot his way in that he will be trying to figure out if he should keep the AVX or late FF in Caddy to be used as daily driver? Maybe it depends - the AVX might be funner to drive around town - maybe more like a close ratio 16V but of course not so much fun when it come to highway - do you think it is possible that the every now and then highway use with tall FF might outweigh the in town yahoo driving with AVX if there is not that much difference anyway in town between the two? What do others say that have more exprience at this?
He also was asking me about going serpentine - is the crank nose pulley strong that comes on the 1.6TD Ecodiesels to handle the extra stress of serpentine verses V belts system? I know the 1.6NAs woodruf key was not.