Building AAZ motor; meet Harley - page 20 - IDI Engine - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
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#285 by Gizmoman on 18 Mar, 2014 06:13
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Pat on the back - your patience and determination is showing
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#286 by JASGTi on 30 Mar, 2014 21:03
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Is it alive?
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#287 by CrazyAndy on 12 Apr, 2014 17:47
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No but got some work done. Got the coolant hard line in, and all the coolant lines aside from the radiator hoses are installed and clamped down. Also hooked up the wires on the trans side of the head, as well as the throttle and choke cables. Did some mocking up for the oil and intercooler coolers and the new radiator location. Got the front engine mount installed. Bought and installed an air filter to top it all off.
Here's where the issues start. The intercooler pipe is taller than the hood if I route it over the valve cover. The CRX clutch cable I bought didn't work, but it was aftermarket. I need 20 mm longer starter bolts. I need to bump the passenger frame rail out a bit for the serpentine belt tensioner, or shift the engine over to the driver side some more. I also may need to shim the front mount cup out a bit since the sides of the mount rubber contact the cup but not the base (Is that how it's supposed to be? IDK). I need to trim the aftermarket rear trans mount bracket because the shift linkage is hitting it and not being able to go into 2/4 area because of it. I need to shorten the upper rad hose in the middle a bit to avoid extreme bending. I need to get the new electrical circuit supplies for the gauges and pumps. I need to fab a slim radiator fan cover and install an aftermarket slimline fan since the original motor is now about where the oil filter is. I need to get high pressure oil resistant hose to plumb the cooler in, and maybe get a shorter smaller oil filter. I need to get another coolant reservoir, as the old one has more oil residue in it than I thought.
Tomorrow I'll install the accessory bracket, plug in the last of the stock wiring, drill holes in the rad support for the rad/cooler mountings, get bend fittings for the coolers and install them, wire the ground strap in somehow, modify the rear mount bracket, and other things I'm sure I'm forgetting. I'm very tired so I'm going to stop typing now.
Pics:
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#288 by theman53 on 12 Apr, 2014 18:01
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can you take a big picture, picture? I may have a possible solution if I could see the rest of your bay.
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#289 by CrazyAndy on 12 Apr, 2014 19:47
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Sure, what angle?
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#290 by GEE-BEE on 13 Apr, 2014 11:52
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The problem with the metal pipes is heat soak, I made custom silicone intakes for the 1.8 t installation for stepansautohaus.com
huge assys for the vanagon conversion
GermanMotorwerks saw my work and I made there intake and coolant hoses also
I would like to see somebody here use a off the shelf intercooler and pd intake and mock it up and let me make a complete silicone intake system.
I would do 3' oblong to 2.25 at the ends with 2.25 round to insert the joiner
GB
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#291 by CrazyAndy on 13 Apr, 2014 18:29
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Okay, got those pics of the engine bay today. installed the accessory bracket and alternator to simulate a complete assembled engine with accessories. Also found out the lower alt bolt wont go in due to the frame rail being in the way; I might have to remove the front engine mount for a hot minute when I go for final install. Furthermore, with the alternator installed, there's no room for where I thought I was going to relocate the radiator, so that idea just took a flying leap off a cliff. Still, I can just reverse the originally proposed mounting for the coolers and be fine with it, but this might mean the hoses for the oil cooler get routed a little funky, we'll see. Finally, left the air box out because I can go cone filter if I need to; more on that in a sec.
Now, you're probably wondering why I took the 7th picture how I did. I was thinking this: Maybe I route the pipe around where the air box goes (and mount a cone filter under the piping instead of using the air box), pass the pipe between the alt and upper rad hose by spacing the radiator up 1 inch on it's mounts with washers, and run the AWIC core and final pipe in the same proposed mounting position. It's much longer that I was hoping, but it gets the job done. Now I also have to figure out if I'm even going to be able to put fans on the coolers anymore, because between the rad going back into it's home position, and little room between the coolers and the grille, the fans I originally bought for this don't fit at all, even with the grille removed.
After all that, but before leaving, I also decided to test mount the downpipe. It's a great-looking piece, but there are some issues.
If you can tell in the first two pics (the second is more clear as to the area I'll be discussing), the pipe is hitting the shift linkage assembly near it's lower pivot area, as well as pointing about 5-7 degrees too far clockwise. The third pic shows where the pipe will need to be modified. It will need to be cut ad relocated to be about 2 inches more toward the passenger side as well as being rotated the above mentioned degrees counterclockwise.
That's all I was able to get done today, since there were other things that demanded my presence today, but I still brought all the pieces I need to modify home, so there will be work during the weekday until I can get out there next weekend to maybe mount the oil cooler assembly. Most everything else is either needing to be bought or modified. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to find my Dremel, because it has a hot date with Ms.'s Timing Belt Cover and Rear Engine Mount before going round the back to get busy on making a new custom radiator fan shroud from sheet metal. Ooh yeah baby, hot cutting action tomorrow night!
CrazyAndy, out! -
#292 by theman53 on 13 Apr, 2014 18:40
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
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#293 by CrazyAndy on 13 Apr, 2014 19:04
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
Trust me dude, I did not mean my DP comments as a "WTF he should have done better"; rather its more like "Wow he got THAT close!". Yeah I was hoping I'd get to use the MK2 air box, but alas it is not to be. Vanvcguy, if you're out there, this really shows the differences between MK1 and MK3 engine bays in terms of underhood size and engine placement; it show that while we can plan for similar setups, but in reality the available space means we must think about our routings. -
#294 by 745 turbogreasel on 13 Apr, 2014 20:38
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for the lower alt bolt, drill a hole in the frame horn you can poke its head into for R&R. Use an Allen if you want it smaller. It would suck having to swing the engine to swap alternators on the road somewhere.
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#295 by GEE-BEE on 13 Apr, 2014 22:25
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Is that a MKI would relocate the battery to the back or under using a knietic type.
Is that a MK1 td airbox, if yor not going to use it let me know, I will pay for the K&N assy you need for your install as a trade
I make those snorkels to the turbo in two different I.D. depending on the Turbo inlets O.D.
GB -
#296 by theman53 on 14 Apr, 2014 05:44
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That is the routing I was going to suggest. I completely didn't think about you spacing your turbo back...that makes a huge difference on how the downpipe comes out. I also was guessing on the taller block. I am glad it is that close.
Trust me dude, I did not mean my DP comments as a "WTF he should have done better"; rather its more like "Wow he got THAT close!". Yeah I was hoping I'd get to use the MK2 air box, but alas it is not to be. Vanvcguy, if you're out there, this really shows the differences between MK1 and MK3 engine bays in terms of underhood size and engine placement; it show that while we can plan for similar setups, but in reality the available space means we must think about our routings.
No I know you weren't ripping on me, I just got to thinking when you did it "why wouldn't it fit" and then remembered it is 3/4" taller and you moved it toward the firewall. I cannot see where it is hitting the shift stuff so it should be really close to working for you, I hope. -
#297 by CrazyAndy on 20 Apr, 2014 18:36
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More Rabbit work today, figuring out the placement and routing of the coolers again. Finally decided that I'd mount the coolers near the upper part of the grille area, and that actually means I can use auxiliary fans now. Also decided that since I won't be using the airbox and the AWIC core takes up less space, I can rout the oil cooler lines around the bottom of the frame horn and up around near the headlamp bucket where the oil cooler fittings are; and so it is. Only drawback is that I need a shorted oil filter now.
I tilted the AWIC radiator on it's side, and I still have room for a 90 degree fitting or two; this will also mean I can feed the rad from the bottom so it's a reverse flow which will keep air bubbles out of the AWIC rad tanks. Now I need to decide where the pump goes. I'll probably tuck it in the fender; out of the way and a good low point in the system.
Things are finally coming along nicely. Getting better all the time!
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#298 by Formerfreeagent on 21 Apr, 2014 16:46
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Great work!
What oil cooler is that and where did you get in and the sandwich plate? Where are you going to put your filter? -
#299 by CrazyAndy on 21 Apr, 2014 21:06
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I got all this from Summit. The sandwich adapter is a Trans-Cool, and the cooler core is a Derale trans cooler. The oil filter will be in the stock location under the sandwich (it's just a take-off not a reroute), but the filter is an inch shorter as a result of the sandwich.