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#90
by
fatmobile
on 24 Mar, 2006 16:43
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That is a very nice tiltisorie ... bad spelling I'm sure but it tilts the car up on it's side nicely. I've been eyeing a few on the vortex and this one looks great compared to some of them.
I was messing with the '83 westmoreland tach, figuring what parts I need to source.
It looks like there are a few resistors that can be moved from one spot to another.
R6 is a 15K resistor and can be moved down to where R7 is. Then a 10K is used in the R6 spot.
R3 needs to be a wire link and is a 100 ohm now. On the diesel tach, R1 needs a 100 ohm resistor so that can be used there.
Actually I'm thinking the R1 resistor determines how far the needle swings so I might put a variable resistor in there and see if I can get it to work with the stock gas tach face and go to 7000RPM.
The stock R1 resistor in the gasser tach is about 10ohm (it was 15ohm in my '91 Golf gasser tach) so I might even keep that one in there.
...so the parts list looks like:
10K resistor
72ohm resistor
191ohm resistor
and a 10nf cap (the '91 Golf already has a 10nf cap that is getting removed)
4 little pieces
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#91
by
regcheeseman
on 27 Mar, 2006 04:50
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That is a very nice tiltisorie ... bad spelling I'm sure but it tilts the car up on it's side nicely. I've been eyeing a few on the vortex and this one looks great compared to some of them.
re-posted from -
http://vwcaddyforum.com - I never knew what to call my roll-over frames - but I like TILTISORIE
I made these from 50 mm box steel and cost about £70 in materials alone.
They are welded up so the caddy is held slightly over centre - please note I facked up the angle cuts on the bottom of the stand, and the brace is in a different place to drawings - please follow the drawings (I didn't!)
Cut the box up as follows..and weld together
And make the mounts as shown..
I bolted the mounts up to the car, then offered the front frame up so there would be just enough gap between bottom of stand and wing (about 1" with a mate stood holding a 1" plank against the car.) I then tacked it in place and then did the same to the back frame.
I unbolted the lot and welded it all up at work good and solid.
To lift the car I just slide a bar in one of the frames to make a lever and lift - I can do it on my own no probs.
To drop it down again, you need two as its impossible to push the car from one side and hold it on the ther side on your own.
It is dead easy with two though.
Actually I'm thinking the R1 resistor determines how far the needle swings so I might put a variable resistor in there and see if I can get it to work with the stock gas tach face and go to 7000RPM.
No, you could cause the tacho chip to overload and shutdown - the RV1 R7 network control all the timing with C2.
It will go to 7K no problem. The 10 ohm will be fine instead of the 15
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#92
by
johnny
on 27 Mar, 2006 11:22
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My tach just gave the first sines of live, tonight I'm going to try calibrating it. At idle it runs at 1200 rpm an with a little gas it goes straight to 7000 rpm.
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#93
by
johnny
on 27 Mar, 2006 14:58
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Tonight I calibrated my tach an it works just fine.
Thanks regcheeseman, if I can do anything for you just let me know.
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#94
by
regcheeseman
on 28 Mar, 2006 06:20
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Tonight I calibrated my tach an it works just fine.
RESULT!
Thanks regcheeseman, if I can do anything for you just let me know.
There's a few things you could post me over :wink:
drugs, porn, ladies?
- Nah Salt Liquorice or Bosch Bolle <sp?> :lol:
Not really buddy, just knowing that it worked is good enough!
Cheers!
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#95
by
biobill
on 29 Mar, 2006 11:36
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OK! Thanks to all the help here, I got the circuit board rebuilt
(note the fancy resistor work to get the right value) and the whole dash is back in the car!
Now I've gotta get the new engine in so I can check if it works and to do any calibration.
A couple questions:
1) Now that I've rebuilt the tach, do I dare start the gas engine (to move it onto the tow dolly to get it to the garage) or will that "blow up" the tach??
2) Calibrating might be a pain, I'm thinking one solution might will be to cut a small hole in the side/back of the tach housing through which I can stick a small screw driver to turn the variable resistor. Any other ideas? and does increasing resistance increase or decrease needle swing?
3) And related to the whole dash rework theme, has anybody added a glow plug light to a gas dash? I've searched a bit and not found anything.
Thanks again for all the help!
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#96
by
johnny
on 29 Mar, 2006 12:57
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For calibrating I drilled a little 6 mm hole in the back of the tachhousing.
Turning the variable to the right gives more needle swing.
To add a glow plug light you can look at
www.t3-info.de , as they discribe it it must be really simple.
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#97
by
biobill
on 29 Mar, 2006 20:43
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I'll drill the hole!
As for the link for the glow-plug lights, I searched around the site a bit and found something similar under "Kontroll-Leuchten", but these seem to be back-lit whereas our lights have the symbols above or below an actual light.
versus
My German isn't as good as I'd like - did I miss something??
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#98
by
RabbitJockey
on 29 Mar, 2006 21:49
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i thought you could switch the center section over from your old instrument cluster, just like mr caddy on his website. or is that only on cluster that are the same design as the diesel one you started with? i plan on using a cabriolet tach and cluster, it will give me a 100 or 120mph speedo and a tach, plus all the plugs are the same, and it will sit right in perfectly fitting into my jetta.
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#99
by
regcheeseman
on 30 Mar, 2006 04:00
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Biobill,
Guess what, I've done the glow light install! In fact I swapped all the lamps/LEDs for crystal clear LEDS including the one in the temperature gauge.
Even built a LED green backlight for the digital clock - credit to Yo Sonno (sp?) for that idea though - he has gone one better and reversed the polarity screen on his clock to get white digits on a dark background and then backlit it with Blue LEDs!
These are his pictures - hope he doesn't mind!
Anyway back to the glowlight, fit an LED, poke it through the membrane and solder it carefully to the membrane (get it the right way round!)
I think an additional resistor needs to be added in one of the vacant spaces too - i'll go check what and where...
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#100
by
YoSono
on 30 Mar, 2006 16:34
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ahhh cheers for the mention regcheeseman... and it's "YoSono" aka "Central Lee" on the caddyforum.
Yeah, once i get the led's just how i want em, it really does make the lighting much better than stock... pfftt, which is like having some kinda half arsed glow worm illuminating the clock at night.
hehe
lee.
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#101
by
fatmobile
on 03 Apr, 2006 06:07
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#102
by
regcheeseman
on 03 Apr, 2006 07:25
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It doesn't matter if they are electrolytic or non-electrolytic
It doesn't matter what they are made of as long as they can cope with at least 12V and are the correct capacitance.
Ebay is a VERY expensive way to buy them - don't you have Radio Shack or similar electronics hobbyist type shops or catalogues? - the bit's should cost cents not $$s!
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#103
by
johnny
on 03 Apr, 2006 08:48
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Just for indication, the total costs of the parts for the rebuild were € 5,- at a electronica store.
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#104
by
KarmannSport
on 03 Apr, 2006 12:39
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WESTMORELAND DONE - One small problem
I did the westmoreland 83 GTI tach conversion. On fire up the thing is working perfectly. Only problem is I cant adjust the idle any further down than 4k RPM. When I rev it, it looks like its reving up correctly, but its idleing at 4k rpm so you get the problem.
ANy ideas from the electro gurus?
Update...Once the revs hit a certain point the tach drops back off to like 4k rpm.
Im using a motorola alt with the W terminal. This is all in an 81 pickup (not that that really matters)
If I adjust the trimmer (all the way down it will idle at 4k) it just goes up until what would be like 10K rpm if the numbers went that far, then it drops down to like 4k again.
FURTHER UPDATE: Looking at the westy schematics compared to the TD ones...should whats labled as RV2 on the westmoreland schematics be a 47 nf cap, not a 220 nf cap. Just comparing the two and noticed this. I have the 220nf one in mine....could this be why the tach starts out at 4k rpm?