Me too. I have a CE1 diesel cluster and CE2 gasser cluster too.I have everything to wire up a toggle switch for the glow plugs myself. No problem.Alright, well in the ECU wiring, the sensors were through the same hole. So I'll just get that part of the loom separated and reuse it. I'll also try and find a CE2 diesel cluster with a tach, I don't really want tthe gasser tach reading the diesel rpms, because it goes up to 7000 so that part with never even be used.One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
One the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.
Quote from: steevz on February 15, 2012, 11:25:12 pmOne the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.Did you kick the siht out of the guy and then just leave him $80 for his pain, lmao. how do people score such deals!!
Still would be cool if you could post a pic sometime.
And you'll need a fuel filler hole upgrade/enlargement.
Quote from: 8v-of-fury on February 15, 2012, 11:58:34 pmQuote from: steevz on February 15, 2012, 11:25:12 pmOne the plus side, today I got a PP 3" downpipe and full catless 2.5" exhaust for $80 plus some 100mm axles I don't need.Did you kick the siht out of the guy and then just leave him $80 for his pain, lmao. how do people score such deals!! Found a local forums of VW guys. Some dude has an 8v gasser now, and didn't need them anymore.Sandblasted the DP today at work.. what's the best way to seal it? Hi temp paint?Will sand blast the exhaust later.. just really don't want the DP to rot, PP doesn't make em anymore. Edit: One question.. for the fuel sender.. can I leave the gasser one in there with the little pump? Or should I put the diesel in and swap wires? If I can leave it and that pump is low enough pressure I figure it might help my pump out?
The downpipe is 2.5" *faceplamMy bad.Well, the tank had 3 lines coming from it.. feed, return, and some small black plastic one.. don't know if it's for air.. or? I cut it, guess I'll just plug it off.Got the diesel lines hooked up, and the engine dropped in. Stupid me removed the two lower bolts on the tranny mount when taking it off the Golf for some reason.. were easy to access with the automatic tranny in it. Now I dropped the engine in and thought I had the mount bolted down and it's going to be a *** to get them in.. gah. Oh well, it's coming together nicely. Dropping the engine in finally felt good.
For wiring my my GP...I got a starter solenoid.. my understanding is... I need a GROUND, EXCITER, 12V from BATT and TO GP.So I was thinking of wiring GROUND to ground, EXCITER (Can I just use a constant or switched 12v source to my switch then to the solenoid?), then 12V to 12v and then to GP.I guess my question is right there.. can I just use a SWITCHED if I want key activated or else constant.. because it's on a switch power source and then the 12V fromt he battery to power my GP? Is it that simple?
Great, thanks! I'll leave it for now, any signs of problem.. I will just swap it out.Good to know to keep that vent line open, thank ROR. Quote from: steevz on February 17, 2012, 03:12:01 amFor wiring my my GP...I got a starter solenoid.. my understanding is... I need a GROUND, EXCITER, 12V from BATT and TO GP.So I was thinking of wiring GROUND to ground, EXCITER (Can I just use a constant or switched 12v source to my switch then to the solenoid?), then 12V to 12v and then to GP.I guess my question is right there.. can I just use a SWITCHED if I want key activated or else constant.. because it's on a switch power source and then the 12V fromt he battery to power my GP? Is it that simple?I was drinking when I wrote this out....I was trying to ask if I can just find a switched power source, then run it to my switch then to my solenoid for GPs..?