Safest way to remove fuel limiter pin? (And add an LDA to a N/A injection pump)

[R.O.R-2.0]

ok, so im going to add an LDA to my car finally..

im aware the n/a fuel pump body has a fuel limiter pin. and its in the way to install an LDA..

ive drilled the outer boss enough to push the pin out of the way before, and then put a little epoxy around the base of the pin, and that worked.

but more or less, what im wondering about, is if it would be easier to just stuff my pump with rags or paper towels, and take the dremel to it with an abrasive wheel, and just cut the end off the pin. but i dont want to get a bunch of metal in my pump, and it seems almost impossible to cut the pin in half on the car, and not contaminate the inside of the pump horribly..

im kinda leaning towards just pushing the pin half way out again. i know it worked for me once..

more or less just looking for other peoples ideas, or points of view?  i know its been done both ways, but im thinking that the pin is usually CUT when the pump is just an empty housing..

i have a complete pump im working with, still mounted to the engine.

[J Z]

Push the pin out and cut it on the outside

[R.O.R-2.0]

you still have to drill, or machine the peening off the outside of the boss it sits in..

and i would still have to epoxy around the outside of the pin. it would be easier to push it out and not cut it. after you push it out of the way, cutting it off is a whole extra, unnecessary step.. i dont care that its sticking out. i just dont like it that i have to put epoxy around the pin to keep it from leaking there.

[J Z]

I do not know if it's the same on your IP, but I knocked out my pin from the inside, without drilling anything. Then cut it on the outside without it leaking.
But if it is not in the way, there's no reason to cut it.. 

[R.O.R-2.0]

EVERYONE that i have tapped out, has leaked, and i have had to seal it over with something.

its done and over with tho, just took the dremel to the outside peening, and tapped the pin out from the inside. and it doesnt leak. i know it doesnt.. because the epoxy is still drying.. time to play with the idle/smoke screw settings again..

[R.O.R-2.0]

i thought that the LDA interfered with N/A injector lines?

cause, AFAIK.. i just bolted an unmodified LDA to my n/a pump, and it CLEARED the n/a lines by about a 1/4" of the rubber isolator clamps.

ive never checked my timing, but the car starts GOOD, and having extremely retarded timing would be one reason that the LDA clears, correct?

i just thought it was kinda weird.. i got my LDA all bolted on, throttle lever, and springs back on, AND THEN I NOTICE that there are still a pair of TD lines in the rain tray, and there are still a set of n/a lines still hooked up in the car, and clearing the LDA.. it was just one of those ?? moments..

anyways, the pump fired up on the first try, and fairly easy i might add.. i had to thread the smoke screw in about 1.5 turns to bring the idle up close to where i wanted it, then fine tuned the idle with the idle screw, maybe 1/4 of a turn..

took it out for a test drive, and immediately i could tell the difference, less smoke, and more power. i have the fuel screw in probably 1 full turn less than the n/a pump top, and its quicker, and makes more boost sooner in the RPM range. you can really feel the LDA kick up the fuel around 10psi.. and +3psi boost up top. WITH LESS FUEL SCREW!!!

dunno why i waited soo long to add the LDA top to the n/a body.. its not like ive never done it before! guess i just didnt wanna mess with a good thing. but this time, it paid off to do the work.

oh, BTW.. dunno if anyone cares, but i took the governor, out bolt, and fuel screw out of the n/a pump top, and used them in the LDA top. it actually worked out very well. made setting up the pump easy since everything was dead nuts on the last top. had to adjust it very little, and the pump is NOT maxed out, as the n/a pump was turned up as far as it would go without getting some throttle hang. i used the out bolt from the n/a top, primarily because the regulator is calibrated to it, and im not sure how exact the out bolts are, and if there are any variations..

if any of you are still running an n/a pump, and have a spare useable LDA laying around, then do yourself a favor, and install it already. its easier than i remember to knock the limiter pin out of the way, and you might get lucky like me, and not have to install your TD lines. not like its hard or takes very long anyways tho.

[fatmobile]

I'm thinking the limiter pin doesn't need removed.

 The LDA lever contacts a different point on the accel lever,
 so they don't interfere with each other.

 The pin basically stops the accel lever from hitting the spinning governor, the LDA should stop it before that.
 I haven't tried this yet.

[R.O.R-2.0]

I'm thinking the limiter pin doesn't need removed.

 The LDA lever contacts a different point on the accel lever,
 so they don't interfere with each other.

 The pin basically stops the accel lever from hitting the spinning governor, the LDA should stop it before that.
 I haven't tried this yet.

you wont get the full potential of the LDA with the pin still in the pump..

it limits the fueling capabilities, the pin IN FRONT of this one is the one that keeps everything from hitting the governor..

[Luckypabst]

Yea, the LDA effectively replaces the function of the fixed pin with a moveable stop. At low boost, the fueling is limited to the same position as the fixed pin, then moves with increasing boost to a point higher up in the fuel map.

Chris

[damac]

I don't have numbers from the na pump I was working with recently to build one good pump for my car.

But after looking it over I took a dremel to the inside and grinded that pin off flush and didn't touch it as it seemed solid when I initially tried to smack it.

But another thing is I had to break my pump down completely because that governor assembly was one piece on the na pump!  So instead of putting it in its notch and all of that with a turbo top to make it easy I had no choice as the sizes of the bushing were drastically different

Also found that the sizes of the fuel screw and some other stuff were not the same like the delivery valves.   Since I had it tore down I took the turbo governor stuff and then the plunger, delivery valves and distribution head onto my new pump and left the other bits that could alone.

I am glad I did it I guess, resealed everything and the na pump had good mainshaft bushings.  No leaks and the car works, although I don't know how to tune it right and I am not getting the best mileage that I have with the car, only about 42mpg now.  The highest I have ever seen my t3 turbo boost it is around 10 when I am on it and now when I stomp on the gas, it leaves a grey colored small smokescreen, when before it had the same power but just let out little puffs of black inbetween shifts or climbing a nasty hill.

Anyway just wanted to post that, because you could get into a big mess like I did one day.  Luckily I had 3 pumps laying around

[R.O.R-2.0]

i have LOTS of pumps laying around.. that wouldnt have been a problem.

but uh, the TD pump i tore apart for the LDA, was worn out too, and i re-cased the TD pump into a n/a body with the pin removed..

[8v-of-fury]

you can really feel the LDA kick up the fuel around 10psi.. and +3psi boost up top. WITH LESS FUEL SCREW!!!

More powah, Less Fuel! SCORE!

[R.O.R-2.0]

you can really feel the LDA kick up the fuel around 10psi.. and +3psi boost up top. WITH LESS FUEL SCREW!!!

More powah, Less Fuel! SCORE!

yea dude, it really helps out.. its like adding +3 turns to the fuel screw when boost comes on..

and i dont hardly make smoke now off boost.. its HARD to make it smoke. you used to be able to just pedal it and get copious clouds at will.. now it just blows a little gray, and then takes off..

[fatmobile]

I don't think that pin limits fuel,
 It's possible the LDA arm stops the lever's full swing at around the same area.

 Having the injection pump increase fuel as boost increases makes it seem like it has more power, because your foot moves less.

 I think the NA pump can still be turned up to the point where the RPMs hang when you mash it, that's all the fuel it needs, and that's with the pin.

 I'll have to try putting an LDA top on an NA bottom without removing the pin and see what happens.

[Luckypabst]

The pin does limit fuel on boost. Off boost, the LDA arm sits at the same location as the pin and there's no difference. On boost, the arm moves, allowing additional fueling and effectively extending the available fuel map.

It's been so long since I've been into one of those pumps, but as I recall, through a monkey-motion series of levers,the LDA allows the control collar to slide lower on the plunger and to cover the control port for a greater duration. Fuel screw only changes the position of the fuel map and the LDA extends the fuel map, to the best of my memory.

Chris