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82 1.6 dsl Power Brake Booster Upgrade
by
southernman
on 07 Aug, 2011 00:21
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Guys,
I have a '82 Rabbit P/U with the 1.6 dsl; the brake booster is very rusty, and I'd like to replace it.
However, I'd really like to know if later model master cylinders and boosters are an option for this truck. I figured, while I have the booster out, I might as well replace the MC as well.
Anybody out there have experience using the later model parts and know what parts will fit ?
Thanks for any help guys !
Southernman
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#1
by
CRSMP5
on 07 Aug, 2011 07:46
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81-84 westy bunny has a goofy pedal set to go with its goofy booster.. gotta switch it too...
aka german pedals, booster/master gotta be switched with all 3 parts... not one or 2 but all 3...
75-84 brake lights on master for german..
85+ cabby/rocco has brake light switch on pedal like yours.. and should be a 22mm master too..
hope the info helped...
if you change the pedal set.. make sure to reweld/strengthen the clutch tube on it also...
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#2
by
burn_your_money
on 07 Aug, 2011 10:49
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Words to live by: Just because you paid a lot of money for it doesn't mean it's any good, it just means you paid a lot of money for it.
Often it seems that older parts were built to a much high quality so it is best to freshen them up rather then just replace them with new stuff.
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#3
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 07 Aug, 2011 12:16
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if your master cylinder is not bad, its a waste of time to replace it..
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#4
by
southernman
on 08 Aug, 2011 00:07
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Guys, I appreciate the feedback.
I still can't tell if the master cylinder is leaking or the wheel cylinders. I plan on crawling under it this weekend to try and figure it out.
Is there a booster rebuild kit available, or would I have to send it off to a specialty shop to have them perform such work ?
D
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#5
by
Powered by Spearco
on 08 Aug, 2011 01:00
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If you plan on replacing the master cylinder, that is if its the part that needs replacing and not the booster or wheel cylinders, go to NAPA and get their brake master cylinder. Its a factory rebuilt unit and is a direct bolt on affair. As far as the booster. Unbolt the master and take a peek inside. If theres rust, then do the upgraded German style booster and MC from Cabbys or Roccos. Thats what I did and the brakes feel better than the stock US brake system.
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#6
by
CRSMP5
on 08 Aug, 2011 01:10
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ALSO... if you replace the mc.. DO NOT i repeat DO NOT give them a core... wait on that.. i went thru 3 of them there junk reman/new masters on my toaster.. it uses westy master/booster/pedals..
why... simple.. the rubber gromets that fit the bottle do not fit for crap... they will leak fluid between the rubber gromet and the master... the 3rd one was so freegin hard to put the bottle in that it actually sealed.. if i have to take it apart ever again.. will need a new bottle... it will break it.. and no the new ones are different size vs original..
if i had not spent the time building my clutch master brackets and all on the crappy us pedals i would have converted to my NIB german ones i have for my 84 coupe... the booster porcelin is cracked in it..
and leaks vacume when brakes applied..
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#7
by
nathan_b
on 16 Aug, 2011 01:32
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chris, they sell grommets, like $2, and you don't have to wait a week for shipping..
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#8
by
CRSMP5
on 16 Aug, 2011 10:12
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the problem is advance/autozone ones are different then stock vw ones.. bigger diameter.. kind like a dime vs quarter in size.. the issue is the bottle was designed for dime sized ones.. push bottle in and it presses grommet into the hole... well when you use a quarter sized ones.. that does not work so well...
why the last one was so tight it worked.. vs the others that fit was like stock..
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#9
by
nathan_b
on 18 Aug, 2011 01:25
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I think the whole design is kinda stupid, someone should cast some with the reservoir built in, but def make 'em mk2-3 style, becaust mk1 masters, especially bendix SUX, adjustable pushrod and such...
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#10
by
GEE-BEE
on 21 Aug, 2011 12:40
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I did a new booster, 22mm master
new s/s lines for 1991 cabby to fit the different master outlets ( location )
16v prop valves for the rear ( scirocco ) if you go disc
brakes are g60 corrado with bembo rotors
I have a new exta master if need be 22mm
and a set of new s/s front brake lines, I also have the rear s/s hardline
[email protected]I got the seats and calipers and stuff for 400.00
I had to get the caliper adapters and e brake lines from
[email protected]
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#11
by
moosiah
on 11 Sep, 2011 04:59
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OK I did this too... I changed to 10.1 front disks and 200x40 rear drums and always had a squishy pedal ( this might even still be the first post in this forum) Well I had to change the mstr cyl, so I got a booster frm a 90-something VW ( 9"?) and a 22 mm master cyl to match .. I had to dink with the push rod , but it was no big deal , just a little welding. just re-bent the lines to hook up to the rear wheel proportioning valves , same thread.. works great.. I was told it wouldn't work or was too hard ... don't believe it, If I can do it ,,, so can you ..
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#12
by
BigVWman
on 15 Sep, 2011 14:11
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#13
by
somolovitch3
on 09 Oct, 2011 18:39
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Jumping in a bit late...............................
'87 Rocco with the "V" looking MC w/4 ports and the proportioning valves screwed into it?
Is this a 22mm bore?
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#14
by
R.O.R-2.0
on 09 Oct, 2011 18:57
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Jumping in a bit late...............................
'87 Rocco with the "V" looking MC w/4 ports and the proportioning valves screwed into it?
Is this a 22mm bore?
no..
its the same one as what came on base model golfs and jettas. 20mm, maybe even 19mm piston.
the master cylinders that had 2 ports, instead of 4 ports were the easiest to get upgrades for.. my 85 GTI had the 2 port MC, and i upgraded it to a mk3 21mm MC.. but my 86 Golf, it has a 4 port MC, with separate prop valves screwed into it..
the 4 port unit w/ prop valves WILL WORK with disk brakes tho. i have that particular setup. i favor the 2 port MC's better tho. less brake line clutter up around the MC.